|
Beretta Mod.92
Gas Pistol Trigger Spring Replacement Guide
Shane "Supergeek" Lin
The real-steel Beretta
Model 92/M9 trigger assembly consists of two springs, the trigger spring and
the trigger bar spring. The trigger spring creates tension on the trigger itself,
returning it to the foremost position when the gun is cycled or decocked, and
the trigger bar spring resides inside the right side grip panel and pushes the
trigger bar into contact with the hammer assembly in the back. One of the most
common problems encountered by owners of airsoft gas blow-back Beretta replicas
is the breaking of the trigger spring, caused by the repeated stress of trigger
operation and poor design/materials used in the construction of the airsoft
trigger springs. A broken trigger spring will mean that the gun will not be
able to be cycled correctly, since the trigger will not return forward to its
original position. Luckily, replacement springs for the real-steel Mod.92 will
fit many airsoft GBB models without any modification or with few modifications.
Here, I will cover the KSC Beretta M9 series (including the KSC Beretta Elite),
and the Western Arms Beretta Perfect Version series (including the Centurion
model). Real steel replacement trigger springs can be bought online from Wolff
Gunsprings (www.gunsprings.com
or directly at through here).
KSC M9/ Beretta Elite
M9 Manual Parts Diagram
(Courtesy Wargamer's Club)
http://www3.wargameclub.com/gun-folder/images/ksc_m9_install1.gif
The KSC M9 trigger spring
breaks very quickly with constant use, sometimes within 2-4 weeks of receiving
a new gun. However, installation is a relatively simple matter. Referring to
the image above, the original KSC trigger spring is part #45. The design of
the KSC spring is different from the real-steel replacement, but it will not
be a problem. It will fit perfectly without modification. To remove the trigger
assembly, the gun must first be field-stripped. Lifting the slide catch lever
up and out will remove it from the frame, along with the spring holding it down.
On the right (opposite to the slide catch lever) side of the frame, remove the
grip panel. The trigger bar will become exposed. Carefully remove the trigger
bar spring (part #47) and then lift the trigger bar itself. Removing the trigger
retaining pin (#44) will then allow the trigger itself and the broken trigger
spring to be removed. The correct position of the spring with both legs angled
downward, one into the small hole specifically built to accommodate the spring
leg in the metal trigger block in the frame, and the other one resting against
the top arm of the trigger. This will take a bit of work to accomplish, since
the trigger spring is under pressure in this position, more than the stock spring
was. However, as mentioned before, no modification is needed, and if the spring
is correctly installed, should apply pressure to push the trigger forward as
soon as the trigger retention pin is inserted. Replacing all the other parts
will complete the repair. With the new trigger spring, the trigger pull of the
KSC M9 is heavier, but crisper. Overall, I feel that it feels better than the
stock trigger spring. So far, the gun has lasted about a year with heavy use
without any problems at all. Considering that the stock spring lasted me all
of 3 weeks, this is truly very impressive.
Western Arms Beretta
Mod.92 Perfect Version/ Mod. 92 Centurion
In short, compared with
the KSC procedure, the Western Arms Beretta PV trigger spring replacement is
a pain in the ass. The original trigger spring diameter is larger than the real-steel
spring, and Western Arms fits it onto a copper bushing instead of directly onto
the retention pin. Modification of both this bushing and the spring is needed.
To remove the trigger assembly, the gun must first be field-stripped. Lifting
the slide catch lever up and out will remove it from the frame, along with the
spring holding it down. On the right (opposite to the slide catch lever) side
of the frame, remove the grip panel. The trigger bar will become exposed. Carefully
remove the trigger bar spring and then lift the trigger bar itself. Removing
the trigger retaining pin will then allow the trigger itself and the broken
trigger spring to be removed. Remove the copper bushing from the trigger. That's
the easy part. Now, using a metal file, slowly sand down the bushing along the
middle to one of its ends until the spring will fit onto it. Sanding the bushing
will likely yield better results and trying to unravel the trigger spring in
any significant manner. Sanding typically takes anywhere from 15 minutes to
an hour of heavy sanding and repetitive testing, depending on the coarseness
of the file. Once your fingers are raw and the trigger spring can barely be
fit onto the bushing, push the bushing through the spring and trigger, securing
it inside the trigger assembling. The legs of the trigger spring should point
up in this case. On the end of the spring that will be facing towards the rear
of the gun, clip off the leg where it bends up with a pair of wire cutters.
This will prevent that leg from catching on the back of the trigger block when
the trigger is cycled. Replace the trigger, retention pin, and the other parts.
With the new trigger spring, trigger pull should be much the same as before,
with little difference in weight or crispness.
Tokyo Marui M9/ M9 Tactical
Master
[Joe_1911 recently sent
me this]
After recently repairing
a friends TM M9 trigger spring, I felt the need to complete Super Geeks guide,
so here is the first write up:
To gain access to the trigger
spring is possibly the hardest part of replacing the trigger assembly. First,
field strip the weapon. Now, unscrew the grips (Watch the right grip, the trigger
bar spring sometimes flys out). Now that the grips are removed, remove the trigger
bar spring if it did not already pop out. Then remove the trigger bar itself.
The next step is to remove the disassembly lever. Depress the right side "button"
like you normally would to remove the slide, and push the main lever out from
the right side, then slide it up and the lever should pull out and the button
should pop out the other side. During all this, the magazine release and slide
release should easily be removed, though not neccessary. Now, back towards the
hammer is a phillips type screw on either side. Remove both of them from both
sides. Next, you should see a series of pins down the back grip of the frame
that hold the lanyard loop, and two smaller ones that hold the main hammer spring
housing and part of the inner hammer assembly. Once those three pins are removed,
the whole trigger/hammer/slide rail assembly should be lifted out the top of
the frame. Now, there are three screws holding this assembly together, remove
them all and carefully seperate the two halfs (Tip: lay the right side on the
table you're working on and lift the left side off, this way all the parts should
stay inplace minus part #92B-42, which should fall out, also be weary of part
#92B-50, it can possibly pop out.) Finally you have gained access to the trigger
assembly. Remove the trigger and broken spring. Notice how the original one
lacks the "legs" the new one has, rather it just has the prongs. Now,
install the new trigger spring just like the old one. It should be a drop in
fit. Reinstall the trigger on to the black slide rail half, put part #92B-42
so that the longer prong is facing to the left half and reinstall the screws
that held the halfs together. Make sure the halfs fit together smoothly, then
remount it into the frame. At this point, reinstall the disassembly lever assembly.
Slide the main hammer spring housing back into place, reinstall the three pins
and the lanyard loop. Screw the two screws that were toward the rear of the
hamme rassembly back into place, make sure the hammer is in the decocked position
and install the trigger bar. Reinstall the magazine release and the trigger
bar spring, place the right grip and screw it into place so it holds that side
together. Reinstall the slide release and remount the left grip onto the frame.
Reassemble the gun and enjoy!
One final note however,
if your trigger spring is being pushed out by the trigger bar where it slides
into the hole drilled in the trigger itself, the DA might not work occasionally.
Merely take a screw driver and push the hammer spring so, looking from the top
of the frame and the frame is in the 12 O'Clock position, the trigger spring
should be infront of the trigger bar, not to the left on the edge of it.
|
