Tokyo Marui M16A2 AEG
When I first found out about Airsoft, I wanted an M16 variant. When I first bought an Airsoft gun, I wanted an M16 variant. When I first bought my gear to match my gun, it was going to match my M16 variant, and I was going to look like basic Army Infantry in return. The first spring rifle I bought was an M16, the first gas rifle I bought was an M16, and the first AEG I bought was an M16. Notice a pattern here? Yeah, I do too. When I started to get tired of not being able to shoot my KWC M16 because of my lack of green gas, I started looking for an AEG.
After talking to a local player, he hooked me up with a great deal at a local gun shop about 20 minutes away. I paid $250 for my brand spankin’ new Tokyo Marui M16-A2, with battery and charger. My life had just reached a new level of joy. As soon as I was in the car, I peaked into the package to look at it. It was beautiful. Inside its box, it looked just as good as it ever had in the pictures I’d seen. I couldn’t wait to get home to rip it out of the box.
After enduring the long torturous drive home (20 minutes is a long time when you’re looking forward to something like this), I ripped my new toy out of her package and fondled her for an insane amount of time. After snapping myself out of this faze, I started taking notes. And that is where this in-depth review shall start…
Barrel wobble is all I hear about when I hear of the Tokyo Marui M16 series. Loads of people say that they are bad guns simply because of this “hindering fact.” Since this is the most talked about downside of the M16 series, this will be the first thing for me to talk about. Seeing as how I have the A2 model, I heard the wobble would come on quickly and viciously because of the barrel length. Not the case here, fellas. I will admit that the outer barrel is pathetically skinny.
Being only ½” wide, 1 9/16” in diameter, and secured by only 2 small allen screws, one would think it would be quite insecure. Surprisingly, it’s actually solid. The only movement in the barrel is side to side, and not up and down. Even with the play only being about 1cm to each side, it can still be noticeable when holding. You definitely realize it’s there when you purposely flex it side to side. Even though the barrel does wobble a small bit, it is nothing that kills the whole appeal of the gun.
Staying on the subject of the barrel and its components, the front sight is fully adjustable for elevation with the included sight adjustment tool in the box. All that is required to adjust it is to line up the grooves on the tool with the sight, and twist clockwise to move the post down, and counter-clockwise to move it up. It’s very simple and easy to use. It also has the bayonet lug should you want to attach a bayonet for a bonsai charge.
The outer barrel that the front sight is attached to has trademarks on it that say “E MP 5.56 NATO 1/7”. I’m not sure what the “E MP” part means, but I believe that the “5.56 NATO 1/7” part of the trades is the round it’s chambered for and it’s rifling. The flash-hider is threaded onto the gun with 14 millimeter counter-clockwise threads, otherwise referred to as 14mm negative or 14mm-. Mine came with a replacement plastic orange flash-hider, so I cannot comment on the original.
The foregrips are pretty nicely put together in a semi-gloss black color scheme that matches the stock and pistol grip. There is also a fake gas tube inside the top foregrip, but it looks kind of stupid because half is silver and the other half is black. As far as the color of the grips goes, they also match the painted black parts of the rifle somewhat, seeing as how the paint is semi-glossy also. Moving on down the gun, you meet up with the receiver.
The receiver is a gray plastic; with the metal parts being “attached” you could say. I don’t like the color of the receiver because it matches no other part of the rifle. The metal parts on the receiver being the bolt catch, the whole rear sight, trigger, magazine release, selector switch, dust cover, charging handle, and the metal piece that is between the grip and the magwell. The rear sights are fully adjustable for windage and elevation, and have two different aiming “holes”.
One is smaller for pinpoint shots, and the other is larger for easier target acquisition. When I’m playing in a game, I use the larger hole simply because it’s easier to see through. The trademarks are nice looking (Although my Colt trademark was dremeled off…) and say “Property of U.S. Govt. M16 A2 Cal. 5.56 MM. 6027597” on the side of the magwell. Next to the selector switch, it says “Colt’s Firearms Division Colt Industries Hartford, Conn. U.S.A.”
To field strip the rifle, you simply pop out both of the metal receiver pins, and it comes right apart. After popping it apart, you can do your daily inspections or mechbox workings or whatever. Behind the receiver, we hit the stock. The stock is very solid and nicely made. It has a very slightly rough texture with a semi-gloss finish (same as the foregrips / pistol grip). It can hold my large 8.4v battery very easily, although I’m not sure how well it’ll hold a bigger battery. To insert the battery, you just unhinge the butt plate door, connect the battery to the wire, stuff it all back in, and close the door. After that, you unleash the pain on your target.
Firing my new gun was as fun as looking at it. After hooking up my battery, I clicked the selector switch onto Semi (Which clicks into place very nicely) and fired a few shots. Pretty nice. Then I moved the selector to Auto and let off a burst. Very nice. It sounded a lot meaner than the AK that I had heard, simply because it had more of a “smack” sound to it while firing. After dry firing it a few times (not recommended to do), I loaded the 68 round magazine up with the included loading tool. The mag clicks into the gun very positively, with nothing hindering its insertion.
I decided to shoot the gun in my backyard at my shed about 40 or 50 feet away in Semi. In Semi, just about each shot goes where you want it and follows the shot before it. In full auto, it’s still a bullet stream, but with a little more spread to it. Realizing I had room to fire it farther, I launched a few shots away. The little BB’s flew for a good 80 feet before dropping to the ground. The hop-up needed adjustment.
To adjust the hop-up, you pull back the charging handle which slides the “bolt” back to reveal the hop-up adjustment wheel. Rotating the wheel clockwise gives more hop-up, and counter-clockwise gives less hop-up. I rotated it a few clicks and shot at my target again. Too much hop-up. Correcting it a turn or two counter-clockwise, I finally dialed in my hop-up. My BB’s now flew a good 100 feet before dropping off. In semi-auto, I would say that the effective range is right around 85 feet. In full-auto, it drops a few feet because of the spread of the BB’s.
The rate of fire is pretty good, being able to empty the mag in roughly 5-6 seconds. I would guess it to be around 800-900 rounds per minute with an 8.4v battery. In the few months that I’ve had this rifle, and the few games that I’ve played in, it’s never jammed or misfed on me. Using the trusty soda can test, I would estimate my M16 to be firing right around 270 FPS stock. Nothing special, just like most stock AEG’s.
In the closing of my review, I would just like to say that I love my M16. It’s a tad long in some situations, but that can be easily fixed by shortening the front end with an M4 front or something along those lines. It shoots very nicely, never jams, never misfeeds, has good range and accuracy, and as long as you keep the screws tight it has no killer barrel wobble. Maybe my little write-up will help MORE people to look into the quite common Tokyo Marui M16 series.