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Author Topic: Tokyo Marui Spas 12 Disassembly Guide (WIP)  (Read 2031 times)


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Tokyo Marui Spas 12 Disassembly Guide (WIP)
« on: July 01, 2010, 08:10:47 PM »

Tokyo Marui Spas 12
Disassembly Guide
By: Gaspedalpump

Disassemble on your risk; I won’t take responsibility for your successes and mistakes. If your gun breaks, it’s your fault. Most I will do is try to help you if you shoot me a PM.

Blah blah blah let’s get right down to business.

Oh, and note the following. I do not have the end cap for the shell tube, nor do I have the door that opens up when you load the shell. They are minor and will be removed from the assembly.

Step one- safety first.

Remove the shell shot magazine and set it aside. Prime the gun once, aim in a safe direction, and fire. This will make sure that there are no bb’s remaining in the chamber of the gun.

Step two- Remove the rear sight. Using a flat head screw, remove the screw that’s holding the sight in place.

Step three- Remove the barrel stabilizing screw on the head of the heat shield.

Step 4- Remove the screw that holds the shell tube assembly together. The screw is located above the pump handle, center picture.
You should be left over with these parts.
Set them aside.

Step 5- Using a hex key for your standard flash hider/ grub screw size, remove the spas 12 muzzle.  

Step 6- Using a cross headed screwdriver, remove the screw that holds the front sight in place. The screw for the front sight can be located in the larger hole next to the muzzle.

You should be left over with the following pieces.

Set them aside.
Step 7- Unscrew the screw that holds the faux button on the pump handle.

This part requires some fiddling. Using the grub screw hex key, remove the faux button plate by pulling it up through the screw hole.
You should be left with the following pieces.
Set them aside!
Step 8- Under zee faux button plate, you will locate two screws. These screws keep the pump handle in place. Take’ em out!!!!
Now moving back to the shell tube area…
Step 9- Looking into the shell tube area, there is a large cross head screw if you look into what would be the magazine on the RS shotgun. Remove!!!!
The piece that’s off set to the main gun should come out easily.
Set it aside!
Step 10- The heat shield is now loose. Slide the heat shield away from the gun until it stops. The heat shield is NOT supposed to come off. No forcing here.

Step 11- Angle the rear part of the pump handle upwards (supposing that the gun is being rested on its top).
You can proceed to lift the pump handle out of the assembly.  
4 small rolling pins are contained within the malls of the pump handle to reduce friction on the pump handle. These are useless, since they barely touch the walls of the heat shield. Toss them, keep them, whatever. (Only 2 pictured).
Step 12- Similar to the pump handle, remove the heat shield.  
It should come out with relative ease. Take care, and remove it slowly.
Step 13- Remove the screws on the barrel brace.
Note: there is another screw on the other side of the gun. Take care to remove that screw too. Pictured here-
Also note the gap between the plastic buffer in between the brace and the pump slider. This is the number one cause for the wobble on the pump handle. I will show you how to remedy this. Using a wire ring made to size, we will shim this area.
Notice where the ring/shim is located, in between the brace and the buffer. Wobble solved!
Step 14- After all of the screws on the brace have been removed, the external barrel will simply slide out.  
Step 15- Wiggle the brace out now.  
Set the pieces aside.
Step 16- Remove the screw that holds the plastic buffer. Then remove the brace by sliding it off of the tube.
Set the piece aside.

Step 17- Located on the rods that connect to the pump slider are screws on both sides that hold a rectangular piece. Remove the screws, and the rectangular piece should freely drop out. You can also remove the pump slider while you’re at it.   .
You should be left with these pieces.  
Set them aside.
Step 18- Remove the 4 screws holding the lower pump tube in place. The screws are located on the bridge of the body and barrel assembly. There are two on each side. (center picture)
After removing the 4 screws, the tube can be removed by pulling it off. You will be left with these pieces.  
Set them aside.
Here is a shot of what your gun should look like.

Removing the weakest part of the gun…The grip.
The grip has been reported to snap off due to lack of care when pumping.
Step 19- Locate the 3 screws on the left side of the grip. Unscrew them.

After you remove them, set the screws aside. You can now open the grip up due to its clamshell design. This is the only way to take off the grip so do not bother pulling it off.
Shot of the clamshell grip internals (exploded).
Right side of the grip with the sling hook and stock lock button substitute assembled. I’m kind of sad to see that these pieces weren’t produced in metal.

Set the grip aside!


You will notice the big hex screw remaining on the gun. Taking this out is optional. I chose to take it out for viewing purposes.
Set it aside!!!!
Quick shot of the gun-
Step 20- Receiver removing time! But before we can slide the receiver off, we need to remove the plastic brace on the lower of the receiver.  
The piece is center picture. If your piece is glued on, try cutting out the edges around it and glue it back on during reassembly. I simply chose to flex my receiver (although, not recommended.)

Step 21- Remove the screw that holds the top of the receiver in place. (Center picture)
Your receiver should slide off backwards (grip-ward).
Shot of the receiver (removed) and internals.
Watch out for this (center picture) piece. There is also a spring attached to it and tends to pop out while removing the receiver.

Set it aside!
Step 21- Remove the pump rails.
Set them aside.
Step 22- Remove the screws that I point out (center picture) to remove the trigger guard assembly.
You should be able to take your trigger assembly off. It hinges off with the rear part coming out first (Pictured). Also, make sure that your gun has safety OFF.
Set the 3 screws and the trigger guard assembly aside!

You are now done with disassembling the gun. I highly recommend against going into the mechbox of the shotgun. You will require torx screw drivers to do so.

Notice: I did not leave out the barrel disassembly. In order to remove the barrel assembly, you must go into the mechbox.

Reassembly is the reversed procedure. Don’t forget to pull down the pump lock, which is a knob that’s located under the right side pump rod.

 Here are some hints and tips to help your gun operate even better.

See the small yellow blob (center picture) resting on top of the magazine release spring? That would be lithium grease. A small dab of it will help your safety engaging smoother and even crisper.
Shimming the magazine tube will eliminate up down wobble on the pump handle.

Hope the disassembly guide helped,


If someone could help me upload pictures, that would be great. Currently WIP. Hopefully, the final product will be done soon.


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Re: Tokyo Marui Spas 12 Disassembly Guide (WIP)
« Reply #1 on: July 08, 2010, 12:04:11 AM »

Any guide is a lot more informative/useful with pictures, especially one for disassembly/reassembly.  Its best to use a picture hosting site like photobucket or flickr, then you can easily cut and paste picture links into the forum's html coding

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Re: Tokyo Marui Spas 12 Disassembly Guide (WIP)
« Reply #2 on: July 08, 2010, 03:20:55 PM »

Haha I know, I have the pictures. I wrote this in a word doc with the pictures and basically pasted it on to here. I still have yet to load the pics, just being lazy right now. i'll get to it soon though.
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