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Messages - fall0utz

Pages: [1] 2
1
Gun Modifications/Parts/Accessories / Re: cant remove jg g36c hop up
« on: April 06, 2009, 08:58:06 AM »
I've replaced hop-up buckings on 2 JG G36c's so far and on both of them the metal barrel spacer ring was stuck in the hop-up unit so tight that all I could do was gently twist and pull until the hop-up unit and bucking came off the barrel.  Luckily I was replacing the buckings so I didn't have to worry if they tore or not.

After getting the units off, I had to use tweezers to take the bucking out of the hop-up and then use a flat head precision screw driver to gently pry the barrel spacer out of the hop-up.  It took a little time because they were so tight.  I replaced the barrel spacers with the ones that came with Systema hop-up buckings.  They fit well without being to tight.

2
How do I adjust the motor height? Sorry for the noobish question, but this is my fist AEG, and first rehaul as well.

You turn the hex grub screw in the center of the motor plate.

3
I've used plumbing grease, but it also said that it was silicone grease right on the package.  This is the stuff I've used:

http://www.supertruevalue.com/harvey-s-1-21oz-silicone-grease-050090.html

It's kind of thick though.

I use this ASG multi-purpose silicone lube now.

http://www.idealtruevalue.com/servlet/the-135121/Detail

4
SG-7_Kill brought up the fact that your battery seems to be under charged or a dud.  Have you tried charging your battery some more or  using a friends battery that is known to be good, yet?

A fully charged 8.4v pack should read at least 9.8v under no load (Not hooked up and running anything).  With your battery reading 8.19v under no load indicates that it needs charged or it has a problem.

After checking out the battery you might try adjusting your motor height.  With changing gears and shimming, the pinion gear on your motor may not be engaging your bevel gear at a good angle.

5
If you look at the 48th image (I think, I may have lost count, but it's close), it is a close up of the cutoff lever on the gearbox and the black plastic actuator arm.

After removing the gearbox but before disassembling the gun any further, I would first make sure that the actuator arm is not broken and that it moves back and forth when you work the selector switch.

Then I would take a look at the cutoff lever, you should be able to move it back and it should spring forward on its own.  You may have to open the gearbox and check that the cutoff lever isn't  broken on the inside of the gearbox.

Good luck.

6
Take a look at the upgrade guide sticky in the "AEG Disscussion" section.  It should answer your questions about what upgrades to make.
http://www.airsoftretreat.com/forums/index.php?topic=28802.0

I have a JG G36c but not the SIG552.  My guess would be that they would have about the same performance since they are basically the same internally.  Both have version 3 gearboxes and 247mm inner barrels, and they are made by the same company.

8
AEG Discussion II / Re: Thompson M1A1 question
« on: March 31, 2009, 11:56:40 AM »
What brands/markings does it have?

If it is a Cybergun/CYMA then it is pretty good.  My friends have a few of them and they seem very solid.

9
AEG Discussion II / Re: Well R4 opinion?
« on: March 25, 2009, 05:57:08 PM »
My R4 has a huge air seal problem.  I'm still tracing it down.  It makes it very inconsistent.  If it shot consistently it would be good for indoor games.  It shoots between 135 fps - 260 fps  :'( with a DeepFire 6.02 tight-bore.

I also have a Galaxy MP5k.  Even with the much shorter barrel it has way more accuracy, range, and power.  It was shooting 315 fps when I got it and it shoots around 300 fps now that its had a few thousand rounds threw it.  It also came stock with metal bushings.  It has a standard version 3 gearbox and long type motor, so upgrade parts are easier (and cheaper) to find.

Anyway, I also have to recommend the MP5k over the R4 (MP7).  Great for indoors and even usable outside, if there is a lot of cover.

10
Problem Solving / Re: G36C trigger problem
« on: March 17, 2009, 08:04:56 AM »
If you hold the gearbox upright and slide the selector plate to the full-auto position and pull the trigger a couple times, does it fire on full-auto?

I've had similar problems when I've fired on semi-auto with the gearbox held sideways.  Turning the gearbox upright and firing on full-auto a couple times would allow that plastic piece with the metal nub (sorry, forgot what it is called) to fall back into its place.

11
You might what to check your gearbox before buying your parts.  My Galaxy MP5k came with metal bushings already installed.

12
Thanks for the word of caution.  Will the stock hop up clip work in place of the blue one?

Yes, the stock clip will work with the G&P hop-up unit just fine.

13
Does anybody know the size/part number to get x-rings for AEP and MP7 piston heads and cylinder heads?

14
I don't have a Guarder air nozzle, but I have the G&P AUG hop-up.  The hop-up works fine. I can't say how much better than the stock JG plastic one because I changed it at the same time I put in a tight-bore barrel.

However, just a note of caution, the blue plastic retainer clip that it comes with is made of a very stiff plastic and doesn't allow very much flexing.  Mine broke while trying to putting it on.  I was trying to be very careful with it but it still broke.  I've heard of other people having the same problem, so just be extra careful.

15
Has anyone had experience with the following Star bearing piston head.

http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/other-aeg/parts-upgrade-aeg/piston-heads/saa-p-02-bearing-piston-head.html

I was planning on using the follwing Gaurder bearing piston head, but the Star is $5 cheaper and looks the same.  I was planning on ordering 3 or 4, along with some other parts, so the $5 starts to add up.

http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/other-aeg/parts-upgrade-aeg/piston-heads/guarder-polycarbonate-ventilation-piston-head-with-bearing.html

They will be going into stock JG and Galaxy guns as part of reliability upgrades when I open them to rewire for MOSFETs.

Thanks.



Update 02/25/2009:

Anybody know in general are Star brand parts good quality?

16
AEG Discussion II / Re: Removing the Flash Hider on a JG AUG.
« on: February 06, 2009, 09:59:27 AM »
If it's plastic, it very well may not have a set screw or a grub screw. But if it's plastic, why not just take a hacksaw or a Dremel to it and start ripping it apart? Once you get down to the glue part, you can judiciously apply some acetone to dissolve the seal, and then afterwards touch-up any possible paint issues with a few sprays of flat-black Krylon or whatever.

The flash hider doesn't have seams that might pry apart into two pieces, similar to this, does it?
(This is the one that came on my son's Thompson.)

I triple checked mine again last night.  There is no grub screw and there is no seam that can be pried apart.

For mine, I'm to cheap to buy a nicer flash hider right now.  I just want to take the plastic one off and paint it.  But if all else fails, I'll try your method skidoo.


17
AEG Discussion II / Re: Future JG AUG purchase, need help on what to get?
« on: February 06, 2009, 09:12:56 AM »
Could you elaborate on feeding issues? After I put a JBU TB in my AUG it started jamming occasionally. I chalked it up to cheap(ish) bbs, but maybe there's more to it. Also, I'm not using a h-nub or metal hop up right now, but those are in the near future.

With the hop-up turned completely off; Using semi-auto my first shot after inserting the magazine shoots fine.  After the first shot, it only fires a BB occasionally.  Using full-auto it feeds most of the time, but occasionally will skip a BB or two.  After testing I usually will have to pull the upper receiver off and dump 1 or 2 BBs out of the lower receiver.

I think my problem may have to do with the alignment of the new metal hop-up unit.  Looking down the BB well I can see the lip of the hop-up unit on one side and not on the other.

I'm using Crosman 0.20g BBs and they work fine in my JG G36c with a JBU 6.03 TB.



18
AEG Discussion II / Re: Future JG AUG purchase, need help on what to get?
« on: February 05, 2009, 03:58:22 PM »
I bought the same gun but from a different site about 3 weeks ago.  According to my Fidragon chrono it is shooting an AVG of 347 right out of the box.  And 15 RPS with the stock battery right off the charger and into the gun.

BTW, I bought mine from Globe Product Supply for $96 + shipping (you have to order at least $100 dollars though).
http://www.wholesalecentral.com/globeproductsupply/store.cfm?event=itemdetail&itemid=683179&returnto=http://www.wholesalecentral.com/globeproductsupply/store.cfm%3Fevent%3Dshowcatalog%26catid%3D73868

I put a G&P metal hop-up and bucking in it with an Element H-nub (ehobbyaisia.com) and the JBU 6.03 TB from ASGI in it and I'm having some feeding issue.  But haven't had time to look it over again yet.

19
AEG Discussion II / Re: Removing the Flash Hider on a JG AUG.
« on: February 05, 2009, 03:20:14 PM »
I purchased a JG AUG A2 about 3 weeks ago and I don't see a grub screw on mine either.  Just a big orange plastic flash hider that is pretty ugly.

I was hoping that I was just overlooking the grub screw, but I guess I'll just have soak it a little and try my rubber belt wrench on it.  I'll look it over once more before I do though.

20
Thanks for the replies guys.

I'm going to go ahead and order a new spring.  The old spring wasn't seeming to perform badly, I just figured it would have to be worn down at least a little after a year.  It is mostly just another point to help a cheap skate come to terms with spending the money on a new spring.

Thanks for the help.

21
I bought a Guarder polycarbonate piston to replace a friends shredded stock piston (my fault, not the guns) in a JG G36c.  The inner diameter of the Guarder piston seems to be  smaller than the stock JG piston.  When I install the stock spring, it doesn't compress into the new piston very well because it's a very tight fit.

Are upgrade springs a little smaller diameter than the stock springs?

I'm just trying to find the best way to get this gun going for him again.  If a new spring will fit in the new piston better, I would rather get one than try to file the inside of the piston to fit the old stock spring.  Also,the gun is 1 year old, so I figured a new spring might boost his fps back up to when the gun was new.  How quickly do springs start to weaken?

Thanks for any insight you can give me.

22
No, it is NOT the same size as an AEG o-ring.

Just take the piston and cylinder to the hardware store and find the appropriate size.

Thanks for the confirmation.  Before I posted I had taken the stock o-ring to Lowes and Menards and they both have the Danco brand o-rings.  None of them seemed to be a good replacement or "upgrade".  Since my original post I have also take the o-ring to Home Depot, Ace Hardware, O'Reillys Auto Parts, and Advanced Auto Parts.  None of them have anything that was a "just right" fit.  The only other place I can think to look is True Value Hardware (it was close when I had the time to go there).

The Danco o-rings #11 ,#12, #40, #67 are all somewhat close but not quite right.  They are all a little off in one way or another.

Fallen One, thanks for the piston head upgrade suggestion.  I did see that one was available.  I'm just being cheap and also didn't want to wait for shipping.  I may have to breakdown and buy it soon.  btw, have you tried the upgraded piston head?  If so, did you see a noticeable difference?

Thanks again.

23
AEG Discussion II / Re: Gear Grease Question
« on: February 13, 2008, 04:18:49 PM »
I've been searching for gear and cylinder/piston greases for the last week.

White lithium grease has a petroleum base and petroleum can attack rubber o-rings.  I tried white lithium in my cylinder before I realized that it had petroleum and the first night my gun shot fine.  The next night my bbs were dropping 3 feet before reaching my target 30 feet away.  There is now a black stain in my cylinder where my piston head o-ring sat overnight.

I've read several places the "Super Lube" (www.super-lube.com) works really well or even di-electric grease.  Super Lube should be available at hardware and home improvement stores and di-electric can be found almost anywhere (Wal*Mart, auto parts stores, hardware stores,...).

I'm going to buy one of these tonight to re-lube my cylinder and piston.  I'm still using white lithium for the gears though.

I also tried some silicone grease that I got in the plumbing section at Home Depot.  It coats nicely but it is the consistency of slightly cold honey and I think it is causing my tappet plate to stick for the first couple shots. My first 2 bbs are dropping 5 and 10 feet in front of me and then it start shooting normal until I pause for 10 seconds and then it sticks for the first 2 shots again.

24
The o-ring on the piston head of my Well R4 seems like it could be a little bigger.  In searching here I noticed that the #14 o-ring at Lowes is what is being recommended for most guns.

The MP7 gearbox is the the only gearbox that I have been inside, so I have nothing to compare to, but I'm guessing that it has a smaller piston and o-ring than most guns.  Can anybody confirm this for me?  Does anybody know what size of o-ring I need for the MP7?

Thanks.

25
The full stock is interchangeable with the pistol grip, just needs different hardware to attach it.

As a side note, the retracting stock model is not interchageable with the others.

Hmm.  I'll have to take a closer look.  The full stock is the only one that I screwed down I guess.  I'll have to take my telescoping one off and try it out.  I'll report back with my findings.

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