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1

Sniper's Perch / Re: Lonex bucking for VSR 10?

« on: December 09, 2011, 10:34:39 PM »

I take it that you are probably an airsoftmechanics member too? I also have a lonex AEG bucking to test, but I have yet to test it. I haven't experimented with the r hop yet, but it sounds absolutely phenomenal. Is that 411 fps with .20's or is measured with a heavier bb? I really want to give the r hop a try, but my KM barrel has a really tiny window, so it would mean either installing it in a crappy jg barrel, or buying a new barrel. I may just end up trying it in the jg barrel, seeing as it involves gluing and whatnot, stuff that I may want to practice on something cheap first. What are the quality of lonex barrels like? They seem reasonably priced for stainless steel barrels. Are they comparable to Prometheus?

2

Sniper's Perch / Lonex bucking for VSR 10?

« on: December 08, 2011, 04:11:28 PM »

Hey guys, I haven't posted here in quite a while, but I thought I would share something that I just got with you. I used to post here quite a bit when I was planning a bar 10 build, but that build never really happened, so the gun has been sitting around for a couple years now, with some tinkering and DIY'ing here and there to make it a decent plinker. Anyways, I wandered across this while browsing on a site that I purchase from now and then.
http://www.shootercbgear.com/product_info.php?products_id=3517
It is also available on ehobbyasia, and probably a bunch of other sites by now as well. Anyways, since it was so cheap and I was still running my stock bucking, I bought the lonex one as part of an order I was already making. For those of you who haven't heard, lonex has been recieving lots of praise on boards like ASM for it's extremely high quality. I guess they actually make all their own stuff instead of all the crazy rebranding like other ACM companies.

Anyways, I bought this thing and installed it today, and I was very impressed. Although it is a bit windy, when the breezed died down, I was getting nice straight shots out to about 230 or so feet from a stock Bar 10 (No upgrade parts, only modded for airseal, and airbreak mod for higher fps). Speaking of airseal, this bucking seems to seal really really well. It is actually kind of hard to push the bolt in because of how tight the seal is between the lips of the bucking and the cylinder head nozzle.

Although options such as Noobie's buckings are undoubtedly better, I thought that this merited a post because the thing is so cheap, and delivers such nice performance. I personally think it's great that chinese companies are now making parts so cheap and so nice. Has anyone else used Lonex parts? What kind of results have you had?

3

Gun Modifications/Parts/Accessories / Re: G&P URX rail on VFC upper receiver

« on: September 26, 2011, 03:28:45 PM »

If I were you, I would be more worried about whether the threading for the barrel nut would fit between vfc and G&P. G&P has it's own type of threading while vfc uses real steel threading. As for the lower/upper compatability, I'm really not sure.

4

Gun Modifications/Parts/Accessories / Re: Database for Hardware-Related Airsoft Parts *Updated 3/12/11*

« on: August 20, 2011, 06:13:08 PM »

Part #9263K247

I am not sure about the others that I listed. They are just hypothetical possibilities. I may try some the next time I order. If you do put the Part #9263K247  as part of the database, I recommend that you include the steps I listed for stretching them since they really are inadequate without stretching. Afterwards though, they are perfect.

5

Gun Modifications/Parts/Accessories / Re: Database for Hardware-Related Airsoft Parts *Updated 3/12/11*

« on: August 16, 2011, 04:26:08 PM »

Just got an order from McMaster today and I have something that should be useful to add.

Part #92855A313 m3 screws in 12mm length for Bar 10 scope rail. You might want to note that any m3X12 screw wtih a .5mm pitch will work, the ones I got were simply the cheapest and are silver as opposed to black. These work perfectly and screw in really smoothly. I got these because my stock ones were only 8mm and were to short.

Also, I got some piston o rings for my BAR 10, but I don't know if they you should put them up since they don't give perfect compression. They actually completely fail the compression test with my finger over the nozzle, however, I am getting about 225 feet of range out of my stock BAR 10 with them, so IDK. I'll try stretching them soon and see if they seal any better.

Part #9263K247 Metric Viton(r) Fluoroelastomer O-ring, 2.5 Mm Width, 17 Mm Inner diameter.

I'll probably be ordering again soon and I'll try again to get the right size. I think the only thing that matters is outer diameter granted that your o ring is not uber thin. The ones above have a 22mm diameter, I expect that what is needed is a 22.5 or 23mm diameter, so if anyone wants to give it a try, that's what I'd reccomend. If anyone who has a perfectly sealing o ring for their vsr/bar 10 and digital calipers could take a measurement of their o rings outer diameter that would be great.

Edit: Here is a combination that could possibly work: 2.4mm thickness with a 17.8mm inner diameter. OD=22.6mm.
Part#9263K688

or another possibly option same as above with an 18.3mm ID for a total of 23.1mm OD.
Part#9263K689

Note to self: test a few sizes like this!

Edit#2: update I am now getting 100% compression with these o rings. Here is how.
1. I removed the o ring from the piston
2. I stretched it around the outside of the cylinder\
3. I heated the o ring a bit with the flame of a lighter
4. I cleaned the cylinder and o ring with isopropyl alcohol
5. I gave the o ring a light coat of 10 weight silicon shock oil and reinstalled it.

This takes less than 5 minutes, and where before I had terribly compression, I now am able to plug the nozzle and cause the piston to hang. I'll be trying som other sizes eventually, but with this method it won't be a big priority.

6

Sniper's Perch / BAR 10 hardware on McMaster-Carr

« on: August 06, 2011, 10:19:03 AM »

After a bit of searching, nothing turned up, so I hope some of you guys can help me here. I know that the vsr/bar 10 rifle's piston has a #13 o ring, but I'm making an order from mcmaster carr, and I wondered if I would find the right size on there. I don't really know how the sizing on o rings works, but a #14 o ring for an AEG is dash number 116 on mcmaster if that helps. I just need to know what number on McMaster would work.

I am also looking for proper screws to mount the scope rail on top of the reciever. My bar 10 came with screws that are too short so that they don't even protrude through the holes on the rail. From Noobie's (From Airsoft Retreat) I found that the type of screws I need are a metric m3. The ones he lists on his site are call m3X8, but I'm not sure what the 8 stands for. My stock screws have 8mm of threading, and they are too short. Judging by my measurements, I think I need a screw with about 12 mm of threading. Knowing this, I found the following.

 part #93070A070

 It is an m3 screw with a hex head and 12 mm of threading. It says that the pitch is .5 mm, which is where I am unsure. Does anyone know if that is the proper pitch for the bar 10? Thanks.

7

AEG Discussion II / Re: JG G36c Piston Options

« on: July 23, 2011, 09:11:50 PM »

A heavy piston alone will not lead to a cracked gearbox, and the SHS one isn't even that heavy to start with compared to other pistons, like that JBU someone recommended... Yes, it is better to strip just a piston, but in this setup isn't extreme at all, so if you just adjust the AoE right, you shouldn't have to worried about a stripped anything.

Really heavy pistons can crack v2 boxes alone, however, that is almost always without sorbo. Heavier pistons also put more stress on the pickup tooth of the piston because a heavier piston is simply more mass to get moving. Although most of this is alieviated with correct AoE, I simply felt that I would throw in a reccomendation. I believe it is a general concensus among good techs that if a heavy/heavier piston is not necessary, then it is best to go as light as possible. Since this is a low stress setup, either piston would probably work just as well, I just question your reccomendation of a heavier piston when it is completely unnecessary.

8

AEG Discussion II / Re: JG G36c Piston Options

« on: July 21, 2011, 09:39:08 PM »

If you haven't ordered yet, here is a good piston that is not full steel teeth.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Combat-Squad-Reinforced-Single-Steel-Teeth-AEG-piston-/250855886410?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a682d0e4a
SHS actually cloned this, but I believe this is the same as the original azimuth. Someone on airsoft mechanics pointed out that this one has the reinforcemend on both sides of the piston teeth unlike the shs. The full steel tooth shs is also really good, but it could be overkill in your setup. First off, it is heavier, which could possibly lead to gearbox cracking, though that is highly unlikely with sorbo and a v3 box. The second and main problem is that you would be better off stripping a piston than gears, since gears are usually more expensive, but with the steel tooth piston, if something went wrong, you would probably strip the gears with that shs steel tooth piston.

9

Gun Modifications/Parts/Accessories / Re: Advice on Dboys Vltor Modstock, need to fit a battery in

« on: July 20, 2011, 09:04:09 PM »

Yeah, that's the same guide I linked to, just on a different site, but anyways, I'm glad you got it figured out.

10

Problem Solving / Re: Lipo battery for high rof setup.

« on: July 17, 2011, 09:21:35 PM »

Unless you are stripping pistons, I don't think that premature engagement is giving you any problems. If it was, it can be prevented by short stroking the piston and gears.

As for c rating and whatnot, you want the highest possible continuous c discharge rate as the motor will only draw what it needs, never more. Burst will likely not really come into play if using an rc pack since they can do such a high continuous discharge anyways. Burst is often double the contiuous c rating. What you need to remember is that c rating is relative to mah. What you need to really look at is amp discharge, which can be found by multiplying the c rating by the amp hourage of your battery (mah/1000). Charge c rating is totally different. In this case it is what make the nano tech batteries a bit special. Normally, 1c charging rate means charging at the same number of amps as the amp hourage of your battery. For example, a 1c charge rate on that turnigy would be 1.8 amps. That would mean the battery  would be done in 1 hour. However, the nano tech batteries can be charged at 5c or 9 amps (1.8 amps*5c) meaning the battery is done in about 12 minutes. Whether that is actually good for the batteries is questionable, but since they claim to be able to do 5c charge rate, I'm sure 2 or 3c would be just fine. You should also check out hobbypartz gens ace batteries which are also cheap and can also to the 5c charge rate, except that some can do an even higher discharge c rate.

11

Problem Solving / Re: How to shim bevel gear without too many shims?

« on: July 17, 2011, 09:08:49 PM »

On and m4 you can attach the motor with only the grip+the drilled holes like he reccomended. Then I believe you put in the motor and tighten up the height adjustment almost all the way. (correct me if I'm wrong) This was on airsoftmechanics and the techs on there either liked or already used the concept.

12

Clothing/Gear / Re: TMC Gear Color

« on: July 17, 2011, 09:01:30 PM »

Why not go with the same stuff from Flyye? It really should be around the same price, and they are quite a reputable brand. I believe there was a review of TMC gear on arnies and color was somewhat off. Flyye has better CB coloring than pantac from what I have seen.

Also for reference, MJK is not coyote brown. MJK stands for Matt Johnson Khaki, the color of eagle mlcs and sflcs gear, a basically the same as all of there civilian available khaki gear.

13

Sniper's Perch / Re: Greater Range Due to Increased bucking contact surface

« on: July 17, 2011, 03:26:37 PM »

Very interesting theories there. The idea of the vibrations and separate axis makes a lot of sense. For me, I am mainly waiting to see how this all plays out, so I was just interested in what you guys think and/or have tested. What kind of performance gains did you find when yours was working properly?

14

Sniper's Perch / Greater Range Due to Increased bucking contact surface

« on: July 16, 2011, 08:57:08 PM »

I have been following this concept on airsoftmechanics.com for quite some time now, and I am curious if anyone on here has heard of it or if you guys might be interested. I believe the concept was pioneered by someone who uses the name "gunsmith engineer" and it has supposedly had a major effect on the effective range of some people's sniper rifles and dmrs. Basically the idea is to create a hop up system which utilizes the entire barrel window for contact with the bb. From what I gather, there are several different ways to do so with most (or possibly all) of them requiring the use of another cut up bucking glued inside the barrel window and then coupled with another bucking installed normally, except with the mound and alignment tab removed. A stiff piece of material is then required to push down the entire window patch of bucking. I think the idea is that the increased contact creates a more consistant spin, and also increases range, which to me sound just like a classic LRB barrel system.

Here is the link to the main discussion on airsoft mechanics
http://forums.airsoftmechanics.com/index.php?topic=3603.0

So far I think this has only been done on aegs, but it seems like it would work (maybe even easier) the same on a basr such as a vsr 10. The whole thing sounds like it isn't proven, but from what I gather, if it is done right, it can be amazing. What do you guys think? Have any of you tried it?  

edit: I guess I haven't been watching this forum enough lately, but I just noticed that there has been a bit of discussion here about this project already, (known as the g hop) but if nothing else, maybe this can serve as a discussion thread. Mods, if you feel this belongs in the modification thread feel free to move it, I wasn't totally sure.

15

Gun Modifications/Parts/Accessories / Re: Advice on Dboys Vltor Modstock, need to fit a battery in

« on: July 16, 2011, 08:31:23 PM »

Is this what you are looking for?
http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/index.php?showtopic=131620
If not, it is kind of hard to help without really knowing the nature of the problem. Pics would help.

16

Gun Modifications/Parts/Accessories / Re: Are these *real* Deans connectors or a cheap knockoff?

« on: July 14, 2011, 10:38:01 AM »

Okay, thanks. I figured it may just be that they would be better off heating more quickly, and I have heard of of attaching the other connector when soldering as a heat sink. I do tin the tip and clean it with a wet sponge so that isn't a problem, plus my iron is brand new, so my tip dosen't need to be replaced.

On the connector that I melted, I probably just put a little to much pressure on it causing it to sink in. All in all, I think my iron will be fine for airsoft purposes, but for rc applications with huge wire I think it was a little underpowered.

17

Clothing/Gear / Re: USMC SAW gunner/ with few questions

« on: July 12, 2011, 03:48:37 PM »

I forget the NVG mount, but no MBITRs anymore, especially saw gunners. If you want a radio setup, the AN/PRC-152 or 153 are the current radios in use on the squad and fire team level. Saw gunners don't carry radios anyways.

As far as your weapon is concerned, long barrel with a PEQ-16 or 15 will be fine, and the ACOG will work until they make a SDO replica

Are you 100% sure about that? I have heard about the prc 152 being used some, but I'm pretty sure that it hasn't fully replaced the 148 yet. As for no coms on a support gunner that seems like quite a blanket statement. I would speculate that it varies somewhat depending on what other type of load is being carried, and what the mission is.

18

Gun Modifications/Parts/Accessories / Re: Are these *real* Deans connectors or a cheap knockoff?

« on: July 12, 2011, 01:23:40 PM »

I recommend these: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=11961
They are from nylon, so they don't melt, they're easy to disconnect because of added grips and they had the lowest resistance so far (compared to two knock-offs from ebay and DX).

I have a bunch of those right now, and they ARE meltable (is that even a word? ) if you heat them too much, which I accidentally did on one of mine, causing on of the tabs to sink into the plastic/nylon housing at the wrong angle, preventing it from being connected properly. Overall though, I have soldered about five of them now, and they seem fine so far.

Although this is not directly related to this topic, I have a 40 watt radioshack soldering iron (only about $10) and I am just curious what the rest of you guys use. In most of the how to videos, I see it is reccomended to heat whatever you will be soldering to with the iron, then apply the solder when the terminal or wire is hot enough. I found this nearly impossible with both 12 awg wire (for rc purposes) and the tabs on the xt deans from hobbyking. Instead, I had to touch the solder to the iron and allow it to flow onto the wire, etc. It seemed to work just fine for me, and I didn't have the problem with higher awg wire. Is this normal?

19

Gun Modifications/Parts/Accessories / Re: Good Drop in Gearbox for A&K Masada?

« on: July 06, 2011, 08:27:46 PM »

There really is no perfect gearbox out there, but either of those is pretty decent, but each with there own flaws. G&P is a really popular brand for people who upgrade like crazy since they are almost 100% TM compatible, however, it is hard to say for sure whether either or any gearbox for that matter will hold up on an 11.1 for very long. It isn't really a matter of "if" it's more of a question of "how long?". G&P are known to sometimes have problems with the gear axles snapping off and for much of the rest of the parts, there are better options available if you are willing to upgrade a bit. The same can be said for the other, which is definitely without its flaws (auto shim gears, etc) Aside from issues with those particular gearboxes, an 11.1 will cause wear on the trigger contacts if not used with a mosfet, and deans would be highly reccomended. Many people run their stock acm etc. gearboxes on 11.1s with no problems at all, and other boxes sometimes eat something right away, so QC is a big factor here.

I really don't see why you don't just use the stock gearbox and upgrade a bit. Just search around on here or somewhere such as airsoft mechanics for some decent parts and techniques. If you plan on running an 11.1 you probably should be comfortable with opening up your gearbox because despite what people say, there is no perfect 100% reliable drop in or stock gearbox for an 11.1 lipo.

20

Gun Modifications/Parts/Accessories / Re: looking for durable airsoft shells/bodies to modify for lasertag/non commercial

« on: June 24, 2011, 02:45:44 PM »

If you TRIED to smash any airsoft gun Something on it would probably be bound to break, the only difference between brands would be how hard you smashed it. In all reality, if you are looking for something that has externals that will really take a beating, jg may or may not be the best thing to buy. For the most part, bumping/knocking into things by accident with it won't give you any problems, but dropping it would likely cause things to start breaking over time if it is a plastic version. My guess is that what you would notice is not the body/stock/rail or any major parts breaking in half/major failures, but rather things like sights and sling mounts falling off. With jg it really boils down to how responsible the player is. If it is just you and friends who understand to be careful, you would probably be just fine seeing as tons of airsofters use them, but if you are renting/lending them out to little kids you could have problems.

Something like a G&G combat machine m4 would be a better buy for external durability since their bodys are more of a polymer than a plastic and are much more durable from what I hear. Any of the guns on the page below would be a good bet, but don't waste the money on any blowback ones since you are taking everything out, unless you really like the externals that is.
http://www.airsoftgi.com/index.php?cPath=139_24_237
This would probably be your best bet.
http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?cPath=139_24_237&products_id=4587
Although it's more than a boneyard jg, if you carefully remove the internals, you could probably sell the complete gearboxes and hop up systems, motors, and barrels on ebay or the forums here to make up some of the difference.

21

Gun Modifications/Parts/Accessories / Re: 13:1 Gears on 11.1v lipo and a m115, Reliable?

« on: June 16, 2011, 08:56:15 PM »

You probably want a lighter piston assembly. This means one or more of the following.
1. A lighter piston like the azimuth
2. A swiss cheesed piston
3. Light piston head with no bearings (as long as there are bearings on the spring guide you are fine)

Now keep in mind that as others have said, you may want to try it out first and see how it goes, but of the above little list, I would most highly reccomend a different piston.

You probably also want to use sorbo to protect the shell and short stroke to avoid premature engagement.

22

Gun Modifications/Parts/Accessories / Re: Will Stick Type LiPos Fit in the Tubes of a Crane Stock?

« on: June 10, 2011, 11:27:41 AM »

What? Thats exactly what xaviermace said. They are good for more than just 25 amps, though I would like to mention that just because your battery can supply 119 amps continuous, there is no way your gun is drawing that much.

23

Gun Modifications/Parts/Accessories / Re: How to achieve 300-400 RPM

« on: June 10, 2011, 11:24:55 AM »

I've never checked what the discharge rate is of those cells, but I can't picture it being enough.  They'd be pretty low capacity too.

Something like this
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=5737
or this
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=6563

seem to have decent capacity and discharge rate.

It seems like the main challenge would be to have a low rof but a half decent trigger response. It seems to me that a high torque motor should be able to pull an m100 or m90 spring with a low voltage as long as high torque gears are used and the battery can supply enough amps. How low you can go witht th voltage would be the real question, as I doubt that a 1s lipo would get the job done, although they are cheap, so I guess you could try. You could go with some cheap shs torque gears for such a low stress setup as they are supposedly pretty good even in some demanding builds.

24

Gun Modifications/Parts/Accessories / Re: Will Stick Type LiPos Fit in the Tubes of a Crane Stock?

« on: June 07, 2011, 02:49:22 PM »

Cool, looks like I should have no problem then. Thanks!

25

Gun Modifications/Parts/Accessories / Re: Will Stick Type LiPos Fit in the Tubes of a Crane Stock?

« on: May 31, 2011, 05:33:08 PM »

Plisken, could you clarify which battery you use? The only echo 1 1100mah I see is this one
http://echo1usa.com/English/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=102&products_id=616&zenid=a85e542015503fcc4ac17978ade8def1
is that it?

@LM As far as airsoft lipos, I'm actually not getting one. And I am well aware of everything else you stated, though I thank you anyways, and yes, I'll be going with deans. As for rc lipos doing 60 amps, no kidding! Thats kinda on the lower end for huge car packs. Some of those actually do 60c.

If anyone is interested here is what I found
http://www.hobbypartz.com/98p-20c-850-2s1p-2222.html
Gens ace batteries get really good reviews from rc people, and they are way cheaper than airsoft brands.