1
Custom Gun Works / Re: M4 to AK Mag converter design-log
« on: December 22, 2012, 11:24:45 PM »
Your progress looks great! I can't wait to purchase one!
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2
Weapons / Re: AK Variant Picture Thread
« on: July 10, 2012, 05:57:40 PM »
Here are 2 custom shortys I built for a special cqb classification at a local field. The top one is mine and the other I built for a friend.
3
Gas Discussion / Inokatsu 1911 Release Date for All Versions?
« on: May 01, 2012, 07:17:54 PM »
I noticed that the all steel Inokatsu Colt 100th Anniversary Models have been released and/or are on Pre-Order.
Does anyone know if they are still going to do the Polished Blued version and the all Stainless Version that was originally mentioned? Any idea of a release date or price?
I ask because I would prefer the Polished Blued version to the Parkerized Military version, but if they are not going to release the Blued or Stainless version, I might have to jump on the Military version.
Does anyone know if they are still going to do the Polished Blued version and the all Stainless Version that was originally mentioned? Any idea of a release date or price?
I ask because I would prefer the Polished Blued version to the Parkerized Military version, but if they are not going to release the Blued or Stainless version, I might have to jump on the Military version.
4
Retail Stores / My Recent Experience w/ ARES Customer Service A+
« on: February 09, 2012, 01:12:32 AM »
I recently e-mailed the tech depeartment at ZShot.com, ARES U.S. Distributor, to see about purchasing a cut-off lever for an ARES M4. Like many of the proprietary ARES parts, nobody stocks them and I needed a replacement part to replace an original worn part so that I could get the gun to stop double and triple firing on semi. I received a reply the next day from Nathan in the Support Department. He let me know that he had one replacement and he would put it in an envelope and drop in in the mail for me, for FREE! I sent him my address and offered to pay for the part and shipping, but he sent it my way on his dime. This is ties for the fastest and most generous customer service I have ever received online for airsoft related items, the other was from ExtremeFire over replacing a MOSFET. For those of you that have dealt with retailers and distributors, you understand what a headache it can be.
Back on track. When the envelope arrive a few days later, it was torn and the cut off lever was missing. After investigating the envelope, I noticed the the plastic baggie that was inside the envelope was exposed and had part of the postage stamp on it which told me it was torn in Ohio and likely shook loose along the way. Either way, the part was MIA. I contacted Nathan at ZShot again and explained what happened and he let me know that he had one last place he could search to possibly come up with a second part. A few days later I received another e-mail from him letting me know that he found a second cut-off lever and that it was in the mail, this time in a flat rate box. Again, this was at his expense. I received the part today in the mail and I am still pleasantly surprised by the level of helpfulness and generosity from this company.
Again, Thank You Nathan, ZShot and ARES!
Back on track. When the envelope arrive a few days later, it was torn and the cut off lever was missing. After investigating the envelope, I noticed the the plastic baggie that was inside the envelope was exposed and had part of the postage stamp on it which told me it was torn in Ohio and likely shook loose along the way. Either way, the part was MIA. I contacted Nathan at ZShot again and explained what happened and he let me know that he had one last place he could search to possibly come up with a second part. A few days later I received another e-mail from him letting me know that he found a second cut-off lever and that it was in the mail, this time in a flat rate box. Again, this was at his expense. I received the part today in the mail and I am still pleasantly surprised by the level of helpfulness and generosity from this company.
Again, Thank You Nathan, ZShot and ARES!
5
Airsoft Events / Op. Lion Claws Military Simulation Series: Op. Night Skorpion March 23-25 2012
« on: January 30, 2012, 07:30:20 AM »
http://oplionclaws.com/nightscorpion/
I am spreading the word about this event for the states in the Texas area. This will be my first year at Night Skorpion, but I have been to 3 of the Op. Bulldog series and I expect this to be just as awesome. Any one from AirsoftRetreat planning to attend?
That date is March 23-25, but the 23rd is a registration and prep day. Game play starts early on the 24th with a half day on the 25th.
Registration is $110 for new comers or $90 for Op. Lion Claws alumni. I hope to see ya'll there!
I am spreading the word about this event for the states in the Texas area. This will be my first year at Night Skorpion, but I have been to 3 of the Op. Bulldog series and I expect this to be just as awesome. Any one from AirsoftRetreat planning to attend?
That date is March 23-25, but the 23rd is a registration and prep day. Game play starts early on the 24th with a half day on the 25th.
Registration is $110 for new comers or $90 for Op. Lion Claws alumni. I hope to see ya'll there!
6
Weapons / Revolver Picture Thread
« on: December 04, 2011, 11:14:53 PM »
I felt there needed to be a place to flaunt our revolvers. I figured I would start this off a pair of Tanaka Colt Single Action Army pistols.
My buddies is the Midnight Gold version with plastic faux pearl grips. Mine has a Shooter's Design metal outer barrel, a Zeke die cast body and custom stained and sealed wood grips.
My buddies is the Midnight Gold version with plastic faux pearl grips. Mine has a Shooter's Design metal outer barrel, a Zeke die cast body and custom stained and sealed wood grips.
7
Weapons / Re: 1911 and Variants Picture Thread
« on: December 04, 2011, 11:05:16 PM »
First up is a group shot of 2 KJW Xcellerators, a KJW 1911 hybrid and a TM 4.3 1911. The stock Xcellerator and the TM 4.3 belong to a friend.
The Xcellerator on the left is all stock, the other had the extended ambi controls removed, DYTAC luminous sights and everything blacked out.
The 4.3 has full Guarder upgrades and Hogue grips. The 5.1 started as a M1911a1 and got KJW ambi. extended controls & beaver tail, 5ku square hammer and long trigger, KJW fiber optic Bomar style sights, Guarger Infinity bushingless slide and full lenght spring guide, diamondback rattlesnake skin grips and Wilson checkered front strap insert.
Stock TM 5.1 Hi-Cappa:
WA Infinity 6":
2 cheapo NBBs:
This may not belong here, but here is my old KWC Sigma 40f that I poorly modded a WE 1911 Hi-Cappa grip onto:
The Xcellerator on the left is all stock, the other had the extended ambi controls removed, DYTAC luminous sights and everything blacked out.
The 4.3 has full Guarder upgrades and Hogue grips. The 5.1 started as a M1911a1 and got KJW ambi. extended controls & beaver tail, 5ku square hammer and long trigger, KJW fiber optic Bomar style sights, Guarger Infinity bushingless slide and full lenght spring guide, diamondback rattlesnake skin grips and Wilson checkered front strap insert.
Stock TM 5.1 Hi-Cappa:
WA Infinity 6":
2 cheapo NBBs:
This may not belong here, but here is my old KWC Sigma 40f that I poorly modded a WE 1911 Hi-Cappa grip onto:
8
Weapons / Re: AR15 Variants Picture Thread
« on: December 04, 2011, 10:39:43 PM »
.50 Beowulf
Prime LR300
Customized Prime LR300 w/ aluminum handguard & Tritium sights
Custom Stubby w/ Pro-Win guts
JG S-System and another Custom Stubby
Prime LR300
Customized Prime LR300 w/ aluminum handguard & Tritium sights
Custom Stubby w/ Pro-Win guts
JG S-System and another Custom Stubby
9
Weapons / Re: H&K Picture Thread
« on: December 04, 2011, 09:28:11 PM »
CA33e w/ G3 furniture:
G3 franken-gun: TM G3 base, PSG-1 grip & stock, CA33e front end
TM G3-SG1:
G3 franken-gun: TM G3 base, PSG-1 grip & stock, CA33e front end
TM G3-SG1:
10
Weapons / Re: Sniper Rifle Picture thread
« on: December 04, 2011, 09:14:59 PM »
Tanakas:
VSRs:
KJW Mk1s:
VSRs:
KJW Mk1s:
11
Weapons / Re: AK Variant Picture Thread
« on: December 04, 2011, 08:50:48 PM »
D-Boys Stubby Killer with real steel wood I found in the back of a local gun shop. Modded the wood stock to work as a side folder, made a custom butt plate to latch to the side of the reciver, left the little piece of "trench art".
12
Gas Discussion / Re: Is the SOCOM Gear Gemtech Oasis Ruger Mk1 Really full metal?
« on: August 26, 2011, 11:10:54 PM »
Damn, I guess I will just have to stick with my ol' reliable KJW.
13
Gas Discussion / Is the SOCOM Gear Gemtech Oasis Ruger Mk1 Really full metal?
« on: August 24, 2011, 03:06:51 PM »
http://www.airsoftpost.com/product_info.php?cPath=40&products_id=36188
I found this preorder on Evike and it claims to be full metal construction. This interests me as the KJW Mk1 Carbine has a plastic lower and metal upper while the KJW Mk1 pistol has a plastic upper and lower. I suspect the SOCOM Gear is a copy of the KJW since it uses KJW Mags, but I want to know if the lower on this pistol is metal or if even all of it is metal. If it is, I am all over is as I have been dreaming aout a metal lower for 10 years.
I found this preorder on Evike and it claims to be full metal construction. This interests me as the KJW Mk1 Carbine has a plastic lower and metal upper while the KJW Mk1 pistol has a plastic upper and lower. I suspect the SOCOM Gear is a copy of the KJW since it uses KJW Mags, but I want to know if the lower on this pistol is metal or if even all of it is metal. If it is, I am all over is as I have been dreaming aout a metal lower for 10 years.
14
AEG Discussion II / Re: Will G&P M249 hop-up chamber fit in an Echo1 M249?
« on: October 28, 2010, 11:20:50 PM »
I tried a madbull bucking. After I could not get it to feed, I modified a VSR bucking and made it work. The biggest issue is that when I got the gun it did not come with a nubbin. I half way made one that gets the job done, but often when adjusting the hop-up the nubbin will tip over and disable the hop-up. I was hoping to go with the G&P to take advantage to a AEG style hop-up adjuster arm. I will give making a better fitting nubbin a shot and try a few more AEG bucking, if I can't get that to work I will just buy a new Echo1 complete chamber set. Thanks for the help guys!
15
AEG Discussion II / Re: Will G&P M249 hop-up chamber fit in an Echo1 M249?
« on: October 27, 2010, 09:03:47 PM »
I tried installing an AEG bucking in mine and the lips from the bucking protrude too far in and block enough of the feed hole for the bbs to cause serious jamming issues. The chamber itself doesn't lock into the gun tight and can be rotaded in the receiver. If you do not put it in correctly, it will jam. I could buy a new Echo1 chamber, but I would rather give the G&P a try if it will fit correctly because I like the way the hop adjuster works. I read that a Classic Army chamber will fit, but I am not sure if the CA and G&P are compatible.
16
AEG Discussion II / Will G&P M249 hop-up chamber fit in an Echo1 M249?
« on: October 27, 2010, 05:56:13 PM »
Anybody know?
I am not a fan of the weird bucking in my Echo1 M249 Para and I noticed that the G&P chamber uses regular AEG buckings, but will it fit and feed properly?
I am not a fan of the weird bucking in my Echo1 M249 Para and I noticed that the G&P chamber uses regular AEG buckings, but will it fit and feed properly?
17
Gun Modifications/Parts/Accessories / Re: Magnum or Turbo?
« on: April 06, 2010, 10:18:19 AM »
I built my first with a ProWin, the later set-up is in a cheapo V3 shell.
The G&P has not trouble pulling a M130 with high speed gears, and I suspect that any high torque motor will be able to do the same. With my set-up and an M130 with an 11.1v battery, I suspect the rof would be around 22-25rps. I want to believe that I read that the Matrix 3000 Magnum motor is a rebranded Echo1 High Torque motor. I am not positive on that, but I have used 2 Matrix 3000 motor and I am a fan given their $45 price tag. I widh I had the time to compare my G&P M160 and Matrix motors to get some numbers on rof and amp draw.
My personal goal is 30+rps at near 400fps, so my solution has been to get the power and then up the voltage until it trips 30rps. I am still going to try different compression component combinations to try to keep with a PDI 170%(M120), but if I can't get the power I want I am going to up to a PDI 190%(M130). I know I could gain 2ish rps with a good MOSFET, but I am going to save that for last, $85 MOSFET is just not in the budget right now.
The G&P has not trouble pulling a M130 with high speed gears, and I suspect that any high torque motor will be able to do the same. With my set-up and an M130 with an 11.1v battery, I suspect the rof would be around 22-25rps. I want to believe that I read that the Matrix 3000 Magnum motor is a rebranded Echo1 High Torque motor. I am not positive on that, but I have used 2 Matrix 3000 motor and I am a fan given their $45 price tag. I widh I had the time to compare my G&P M160 and Matrix motors to get some numbers on rof and amp draw.
My personal goal is 30+rps at near 400fps, so my solution has been to get the power and then up the voltage until it trips 30rps. I am still going to try different compression component combinations to try to keep with a PDI 170%(M120), but if I can't get the power I want I am going to up to a PDI 190%(M130). I know I could gain 2ish rps with a good MOSFET, but I am going to save that for last, $85 MOSFET is just not in the budget right now.
18
Gun Modifications/Parts/Accessories / Re: Magnum or Turbo?
« on: April 05, 2010, 03:23:35 PM »
I tried the M130 with Systema Turbo motor and 12v battery combo with catastrophic results. I had already built up the gun with a Systema Magnum and it worked great for 395 fps at 25+ rps. I decided that I wanted more rps, so I dropped in the Turbo expecting to increase the amp draw, spool up time and rps. I got 34 rps for about 1000rnds when the bevel gear shatter, not stripped, shattered. That in turn ate a Prometheus bevel and spur gear. I suspect that the shock load of the Turbo and 12v battery fighting against the M130 is what ended the bevel gear. Maybe a MOSFET with "soft start" programming would have helped, not sure though. I have since stayed away from the Turbo motor with anything over a M110 spring. Currently I am in favor of high speed gears, high torque motor and enough battery to make it run. My current set-up: PDI 150% spring, 11.1v battery, Promy High Speed Gears, G&P M160 Motor(lower amp draw than Systema Magnum), 9mm bearings = 29rps @ 320fps. I am waiting for a 14.8v battery to arrive in the mail to switch to a PDI 190% spring to try to get 390ish fps at 30+ rps.
I am not saying one way is better than the other, these are just my experiences. Good luck with your build!
I am not saying one way is better than the other, these are just my experiences. Good luck with your build!
19
Sniper's Perch / Re: 6.01 TB for VSR
« on: February 08, 2010, 11:01:19 PM »
I have never been a fan of the Dees 6.01 as well. I have used PDI 6.05/6.01 and Promy 6.03 in gbb, aeg and bolt action gas and spring guns and I have always found them to be superior to brass barrels. That said, I have never tried a Edgi barrel for comparision.
Here they have the Promy 6.03 and the PDI 6.01 in stock.
http://www.airsoftglobal.com/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=430&osCsid=s8p4m1dq2h5v3p9f54s79guh75
Here they have the Promy 6.03 and the PDI 6.01 in stock.
http://www.airsoftglobal.com/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=430&osCsid=s8p4m1dq2h5v3p9f54s79guh75
20
Sniper's Perch / Re: 6.01 TB for VSR
« on: February 08, 2010, 10:55:20 PM »
http://www.airsoftretreat.com/classifieds/showproduct.php/product/5345/cat/500
These are custom made from Razzor(UK) barrel stock, 6.01mm ID x 9.5mm OD, stainless steel. I installed these in a KJW M700, Tanaka M40, M700, TM VSR, BAR10 and it worked very well. I am selling them cheap to get them out of the closet. I was originally selling them for double the listed price, but I cut these for VSR hop-ups and I haven't built one in over a year.
These are custom made from Razzor(UK) barrel stock, 6.01mm ID x 9.5mm OD, stainless steel. I installed these in a KJW M700, Tanaka M40, M700, TM VSR, BAR10 and it worked very well. I am selling them cheap to get them out of the closet. I was originally selling them for double the listed price, but I cut these for VSR hop-ups and I haven't built one in over a year.
21
AEG Discussion II / Re: AGM Sten MkII Internals?
« on: September 29, 2009, 06:46:44 PM »
Thank you kindly, your review told me everything I wanted to know.
22
AEG Discussion II / AGM Sten MkII Internals?
« on: September 28, 2009, 09:26:59 PM »
I am looking to buy a AGM Sten and I intend to upgrade it. I am curious if anyone knows about the compatability of the internals and what lenght motor does it use? Thanks guys!
23
Gun Modifications/Parts/Accessories / Re: Galaxy MP5K RIS?
« on: January 28, 2009, 10:45:09 PM »
I found it at www.dentrinityshop.com search part RIS053. Made by JP, $42.00 plus shipping.
Or, contact Rockethound on www.northtexasairsoft.org he has one here in the states that he may be interested in selling, just PM him.
Or, contact Rockethound on www.northtexasairsoft.org he has one here in the states that he may be interested in selling, just PM him.
24
Sniper's Perch / Everything I know about modifying the KJW Mk1 Carbine
« on: January 28, 2009, 11:52:23 AM »
I decided to sit down and make this post in response to the PMs I have been getting over the last 3 months. I figure this might save me some time down the road. Hope this helps...
The cheapest thing you can do is get some .36g bbs and laern to shoot it. I would set the hop-up so that the bb falls in a smooth continuous arc and learn to hit with that at different ranges. If you try to adjust the hop-up so that it has a bit of "over-hop" you will end up tearing the bucking and you will have a very inconsistent hop-up due to the changing fps from shot to shot. You can try .40g or .43g, but you will increase the odds of tearing the factory bucking. I used to try to get max range with out "holding over" the target. This was foolish and the best I could do was about 165' with a stock rifle. The bb will have a more consistent path with the hop-up adjusted just under the point where the bb climbs then falls.
There is a very limited supply of aftermarket parts. KM used to make a TN 6.04 inner barrel that you could buy at www.wgcshop.com In the glory days, a guy at www.paintball-x.com was buying bulk orders of upgrade parts from Korea and I was lucky enough to get in on this, but really you can do with out most of the parts and build your own of the rest. www.Evike.com has a pretty good group of parts from Best Gun, magazine valve kits(comes with upgraded ahmmer spring and firing pins), barrel spacers, nylon hop-up chamber(great if your gun doesn't have a metal chamber), rail adapter(if your gun has the older 3/8" rail rather than a weaver rail). Dees Custom used to make a 6.01 tightbore and you may be able to talk them into cutting you another one. ANGS made a "Light Trigger Pull Kit" that came with several springs, if you can find this the hammer spring will be very helpful, the other springs are really only useful in a pistol since you need spring tension to return the barrel to the forward position after each shot.
After you have played several games and spend a few hours and hundreds of bbs learning how to shoot the gun and how it reacts to different inputs and elements, you canstart thinking about upgradeing it... that is if you are not disgusted with it. Keep in mind that it will never be as consistent as a BAR-10 or other VSR platform. The beauty of this gun is it's power for it's size. It is also in the top 5 for quietest surpressed airsoft guns.
When you are ready to upgrade, you will need to focus on increasing the gas efficiency. This is all trial and error and you HAVE to have a rela chronograph, the coke can method WILL NOT work here. Your goal will be to get a maximum of 550fps with .20g or 436fps with .36g bbs. in 90 degree weather. I would first clip one coil at a time off of the hammer spring at a time, measuring the fps along the way to make sure you do not go too far. I ewould not remove more than 3 coils off of the hammer spring. If you still need to lower the power more, use a file to file a very small amount at a time from the firing pin. Check the fps often so that you do not go too far, remember you can take metal away alot easier than you can put it back.
After you have the power in the correct spot, you will have simultaneously increased the gas efficiency. This will give you a tighter fps spread from shot to shot. Currently the rifle can loose up to 40fps(!) with each shot, after the first few shots. Ideally you want a 10fps difference with each shot, if you hit this mark let me know!
Next up you will want to add a tightbore barrel.
It is very important to remember that the KJW barrel has an 8mm outside diamter while nearly all other barrels are 8.5mm. You can get around this by having a machinist turn down(cut on a lathe) the outside diameter so that the hop-up chamber will fit. You will also need the machinist to cut the 2 needed grooves and the hole for the hop-up patch(bucking). Since you started with a 8.5mm outer barrel, you will either need to have the machinist turn down the end of the barrel to fit into the factory muzzle cap, or have the machinist bore out the muzzle cap to fit the new barrel. Remember that it has to be a loose fit because the inner barrel has to slide forward and backward to chamber each round when the trigger is pulled.
If you ever tear the hop-up patch, you can trim a little off the front and the back of a Tanaka M700 patch to get it to the correct lenght to fit(use the factory patch for dimensions). If you decide to keep the power over 600+fps, you will need to use the G&G red patch for the Tanaka M700 to get the rifle to "hop" .36g or heavier bbs with out tearing the patch. http://www.airsoftextreme.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1319
You can also make or buy a remote air source adapter to increase the consistencly of the gun. Here is one for sale on Evike.com that will work ans save you some hassle: http://www.airsoftpost.com/adaptor-marui-compatible-series-magazine-p-28100.html
Making one is hard. I used a 5mm allen bolt, drilled a hole down the center, then drilled and threaded a hole into a 1/8" NPT female cap/plug, then use JB Weld to seal adn glue the bolt into the cap.
Mock mock mock mock suppressor adapters will have to be made or modified from an existing adapter. However, the latest KJW Mk1s come with a new muzzle cap that comes with the adapter hidden under a thread protector cap. If you opt to make your own supressor adapter, buy one and take it to a machinist to turn down the outside diamter so that it just slips into the muzzle, then drill and tap a hole through the outer barrel and into the muzzle adapter. You can either add a set(grub) screw for a flush finish, or use a allen bolt to double as a front sight. Pictured is one made from a King Arms VSR-10 adapter.
The 23" barrel kit is nice if you want a longer gun. It comes with a longer outer and inner barrel, but the inner barrle is just as bad as the stock barrel. The outer barrel is great for covering a custom tightbore, but the muzzle cap has differnt(coarse instead of fine) threads so if you have one with the new supressor mount muzzle caps, it probably won't fit.
If you opt to increase the hammer spring tension to increase the power, it will wear the trigger lickages down more quickly. The trigger linkages are all cast pot metal and rubbed enough of the camming surface off of a set so that it wouldn't work on every trigger pull. You can also put a bb under the hammer spring to increase hammer tension even further for more power. All this extra tension will increase the trigger pull enough to make your finger hurt after shooting/testing for awhile. To fix this, I cut off the trigger guard and made a trigger extension out of part of the trigger guard. I bolted it on and used JB Kwik Weld to contour it a little better and help hold it on.
If you leave the mags full of gas in the heat, they will expand/swell enough to make it difficult to get them out of the gun. I usually left just a bit of gas in the mags to keep the seals good, just not full. If one swells, you can fix it by emptying the gas, placing it in a vise with the large flats sides against each jaw, then very gently squeeze it back. Be sure to check it in the grip as you go so that you do not compress it to far. BE CAREFUL, this can cause small fractures in the mag and eventually make it leak beyond repair. A better option is to make a magpul for it. I drilled through the base plate, under the bb chanel and tapped it for a eye bolt, then added a key ring. I also went a step further to counter sink the hole so that the eye bolt sinks in tigher, but this is not required. To make it a bit easier to remove, I made a heel on the mag release lever. I drilled into the existing lever and added a small screw, I then molded some JB Kwik Weld around the screw to form the heel. This makes it easier to press the lever with your thumb so that you can pull out the mag with the same hand.
I made my own full lenght barrel spacer after I switched over to a 8.5mm outside diamter tightbore. I found a brass sleeve at a hardware that was about .010" larger than the barrel so that it would still slide smoothly inside. I then found several differnt brass and steel parts to completly fill the inside of the outer barrel. This was pretty easy, but I did have to run a 1/2" drill down the center of all the larger brass peices to get the other pieces to slide inside. I also used aluminum ducting tape to make the brass pieces fit nice and snug inside the outer barrel.
For stock options, you can modify pretty much any stock so that the grip will fit through it, then make some new mount points. If you do this, do not bother trying to mount the grip. Just mount the outer barrel to the stock and let the grip hang down unsupported. If you try to mount both, you have to get it EXACTLY perfect or the mounting of the grip will cause a bind between the upper and lower receivers causing the trigger parts or the inner barrel to bind and not allowing a second shot. This is why there are no grip screw holes in the first gun, and why they are missing from the second pictured rifle. Both of these stocks are intended for the Ruger 10/22, note the resin filled magwell area on the first stock. I chose these stocks because they had a similar grip angle to the KJW Mk1.
Now, all that said, feel free to PM me if you have any specific questions that I did not answer here or if you would like more information about a specific modification.
The cheapest thing you can do is get some .36g bbs and laern to shoot it. I would set the hop-up so that the bb falls in a smooth continuous arc and learn to hit with that at different ranges. If you try to adjust the hop-up so that it has a bit of "over-hop" you will end up tearing the bucking and you will have a very inconsistent hop-up due to the changing fps from shot to shot. You can try .40g or .43g, but you will increase the odds of tearing the factory bucking. I used to try to get max range with out "holding over" the target. This was foolish and the best I could do was about 165' with a stock rifle. The bb will have a more consistent path with the hop-up adjusted just under the point where the bb climbs then falls.
There is a very limited supply of aftermarket parts. KM used to make a TN 6.04 inner barrel that you could buy at www.wgcshop.com In the glory days, a guy at www.paintball-x.com was buying bulk orders of upgrade parts from Korea and I was lucky enough to get in on this, but really you can do with out most of the parts and build your own of the rest. www.Evike.com has a pretty good group of parts from Best Gun, magazine valve kits(comes with upgraded ahmmer spring and firing pins), barrel spacers, nylon hop-up chamber(great if your gun doesn't have a metal chamber), rail adapter(if your gun has the older 3/8" rail rather than a weaver rail). Dees Custom used to make a 6.01 tightbore and you may be able to talk them into cutting you another one. ANGS made a "Light Trigger Pull Kit" that came with several springs, if you can find this the hammer spring will be very helpful, the other springs are really only useful in a pistol since you need spring tension to return the barrel to the forward position after each shot.
After you have played several games and spend a few hours and hundreds of bbs learning how to shoot the gun and how it reacts to different inputs and elements, you canstart thinking about upgradeing it... that is if you are not disgusted with it. Keep in mind that it will never be as consistent as a BAR-10 or other VSR platform. The beauty of this gun is it's power for it's size. It is also in the top 5 for quietest surpressed airsoft guns.
When you are ready to upgrade, you will need to focus on increasing the gas efficiency. This is all trial and error and you HAVE to have a rela chronograph, the coke can method WILL NOT work here. Your goal will be to get a maximum of 550fps with .20g or 436fps with .36g bbs. in 90 degree weather. I would first clip one coil at a time off of the hammer spring at a time, measuring the fps along the way to make sure you do not go too far. I ewould not remove more than 3 coils off of the hammer spring. If you still need to lower the power more, use a file to file a very small amount at a time from the firing pin. Check the fps often so that you do not go too far, remember you can take metal away alot easier than you can put it back.
After you have the power in the correct spot, you will have simultaneously increased the gas efficiency. This will give you a tighter fps spread from shot to shot. Currently the rifle can loose up to 40fps(!) with each shot, after the first few shots. Ideally you want a 10fps difference with each shot, if you hit this mark let me know!
Next up you will want to add a tightbore barrel.
It is very important to remember that the KJW barrel has an 8mm outside diamter while nearly all other barrels are 8.5mm. You can get around this by having a machinist turn down(cut on a lathe) the outside diameter so that the hop-up chamber will fit. You will also need the machinist to cut the 2 needed grooves and the hole for the hop-up patch(bucking). Since you started with a 8.5mm outer barrel, you will either need to have the machinist turn down the end of the barrel to fit into the factory muzzle cap, or have the machinist bore out the muzzle cap to fit the new barrel. Remember that it has to be a loose fit because the inner barrel has to slide forward and backward to chamber each round when the trigger is pulled.
If you ever tear the hop-up patch, you can trim a little off the front and the back of a Tanaka M700 patch to get it to the correct lenght to fit(use the factory patch for dimensions). If you decide to keep the power over 600+fps, you will need to use the G&G red patch for the Tanaka M700 to get the rifle to "hop" .36g or heavier bbs with out tearing the patch. http://www.airsoftextreme.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1319
You can also make or buy a remote air source adapter to increase the consistencly of the gun. Here is one for sale on Evike.com that will work ans save you some hassle: http://www.airsoftpost.com/adaptor-marui-compatible-series-magazine-p-28100.html
Making one is hard. I used a 5mm allen bolt, drilled a hole down the center, then drilled and threaded a hole into a 1/8" NPT female cap/plug, then use JB Weld to seal adn glue the bolt into the cap.
Mock mock mock mock suppressor adapters will have to be made or modified from an existing adapter. However, the latest KJW Mk1s come with a new muzzle cap that comes with the adapter hidden under a thread protector cap. If you opt to make your own supressor adapter, buy one and take it to a machinist to turn down the outside diamter so that it just slips into the muzzle, then drill and tap a hole through the outer barrel and into the muzzle adapter. You can either add a set(grub) screw for a flush finish, or use a allen bolt to double as a front sight. Pictured is one made from a King Arms VSR-10 adapter.
The 23" barrel kit is nice if you want a longer gun. It comes with a longer outer and inner barrel, but the inner barrle is just as bad as the stock barrel. The outer barrel is great for covering a custom tightbore, but the muzzle cap has differnt(coarse instead of fine) threads so if you have one with the new supressor mount muzzle caps, it probably won't fit.
If you opt to increase the hammer spring tension to increase the power, it will wear the trigger lickages down more quickly. The trigger linkages are all cast pot metal and rubbed enough of the camming surface off of a set so that it wouldn't work on every trigger pull. You can also put a bb under the hammer spring to increase hammer tension even further for more power. All this extra tension will increase the trigger pull enough to make your finger hurt after shooting/testing for awhile. To fix this, I cut off the trigger guard and made a trigger extension out of part of the trigger guard. I bolted it on and used JB Kwik Weld to contour it a little better and help hold it on.
If you leave the mags full of gas in the heat, they will expand/swell enough to make it difficult to get them out of the gun. I usually left just a bit of gas in the mags to keep the seals good, just not full. If one swells, you can fix it by emptying the gas, placing it in a vise with the large flats sides against each jaw, then very gently squeeze it back. Be sure to check it in the grip as you go so that you do not compress it to far. BE CAREFUL, this can cause small fractures in the mag and eventually make it leak beyond repair. A better option is to make a magpul for it. I drilled through the base plate, under the bb chanel and tapped it for a eye bolt, then added a key ring. I also went a step further to counter sink the hole so that the eye bolt sinks in tigher, but this is not required. To make it a bit easier to remove, I made a heel on the mag release lever. I drilled into the existing lever and added a small screw, I then molded some JB Kwik Weld around the screw to form the heel. This makes it easier to press the lever with your thumb so that you can pull out the mag with the same hand.
I made my own full lenght barrel spacer after I switched over to a 8.5mm outside diamter tightbore. I found a brass sleeve at a hardware that was about .010" larger than the barrel so that it would still slide smoothly inside. I then found several differnt brass and steel parts to completly fill the inside of the outer barrel. This was pretty easy, but I did have to run a 1/2" drill down the center of all the larger brass peices to get the other pieces to slide inside. I also used aluminum ducting tape to make the brass pieces fit nice and snug inside the outer barrel.
For stock options, you can modify pretty much any stock so that the grip will fit through it, then make some new mount points. If you do this, do not bother trying to mount the grip. Just mount the outer barrel to the stock and let the grip hang down unsupported. If you try to mount both, you have to get it EXACTLY perfect or the mounting of the grip will cause a bind between the upper and lower receivers causing the trigger parts or the inner barrel to bind and not allowing a second shot. This is why there are no grip screw holes in the first gun, and why they are missing from the second pictured rifle. Both of these stocks are intended for the Ruger 10/22, note the resin filled magwell area on the first stock. I chose these stocks because they had a similar grip angle to the KJW Mk1.
Now, all that said, feel free to PM me if you have any specific questions that I did not answer here or if you would like more information about a specific modification.
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Gun Modifications/Parts/Accessories / Re: Custom AK Handguard Rail System Idea...
« on: January 28, 2009, 01:37:09 AM »
I agree with booligan, but I have even seen it look pretty slick with an aimpoint. Try doing a google image search for "sbr ak". I made it 3 pages in and saw several examples of what you are considering.