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1

AEG Discussion II / Re: Advice for Kart P90 Conversion of Internals to CQC

« on: May 06, 2013, 03:00:54 PM »

One nice way to run the p90 is to skip the mags and run a box with a flash mag. The internals that you need to replace really depend on the battery that you use.

2

Problem Solving / Re: Cyma m14 double feeding

« on: April 22, 2013, 12:28:31 PM »

Hi Pascal and congrats on airsoft finally being legal in the Netherlands. Of course now you have to also deal with the problems of products manufactured in China and all the other technical problems of airsoft 

Pull out your barrel look into the hop up make sure your hop up mound isn't sticking too far into the barrel since this can cause feeding problems and a huge drop in fps. Turn the hop up off completely and see if that helps. If the hop up is off and it still is having feeding issues, it could be a broken tappet plate. Make sure your nozzle is reciprocating correctly when you cycle the gearbox.

3

AEG Discussion / Re: does my Aim Top mp5 have good internals?

« on: April 22, 2013, 12:20:22 PM »

You'll have to check out all your internals and evaluate it on a case by case basis. I've seen several aim tops with parts like Modi described as chewed on by a rabid dog. I suspect they have some serious flaws in the gate design of their molds or the plastic they use has a low MFI ect. Either way a lot of their parts seem to end up with serious flaws. One that I recently worked on had the trigger assembly literally crumble into dust. That red plastic they use is pretty crappy and feels like it has been saturated in petroleum based grease before being installed in the gearbox.

4

Gas Discussion / Re: WE M&P Worth a shot?

« on: March 16, 2013, 08:26:32 PM »

Mags aren't too easy to find, but check ebay. Last I looked there was a seller who had a few in stock for about $35 shipped. Thetrigger is right about the mag seals, expect the same quality as the other WE models. Seals have very poor temperature resistance, but can be easily replaced as with most gas mags.

5

Gas Discussion / Re: WE M&P Worth a shot?

« on: March 14, 2013, 08:31:49 PM »

I had my hands on a couple of these a little while ago and I was actually pretty impressed. I never used one in a game, but I can provide a little insight on what I thought about them.

The lower receiver feels very similar to the g&g polymer fiber externals. The model is well balanced and much lighter than the metal M9 models. The grips are really comfortable, the piece behind the mag well is attached to a long metal pin which holds them in place. It twists and slides out to remove the grips. I have smaller hands but fit very well with a g17 model handgun. The 2 stage trigger has no annoying seams and the pull is smooth. I was worried about it possibly snapping at the hinge but no issues developed that I saw.
Gas efficiency is pretty good,  most times I could get a full mag per fill (I live in the northern US, so consider that on the low end of its performance with lower temperatures). The blowback is very crisp and cycles faster than any metal slide m9s that I have used. Range and accuracy are what you'd expect out of a WEtech pistol. One of the pistols developed a slight issue with the magazine catch.. the mags would fall out when it was fired. A little filing fixed that but I could tell that the catch wore down a little too quickly. In short, yes it is definitely playable.

Cons:
I can't really think of much since I don't have one in my possession right now.
Difficult to find replacement parts

6

Basic Training <--- YOUR FIRST POSTS HERE / Re: New Member with a tune up/preventative maintenance question.

« on: February 12, 2013, 12:11:12 AM »

The old E1 vector arms mp5s had really solid internals back when clones were starting to become popular. The internals in that model are still better than what a lot of 'low cost' guns come with now. A new bucking goes a long way, but that requires a lot of work to get to it if you've never taken apart an mp5 with a two part receiver. But I probably wouldn't worry about replacing anything. As long as the receiver body has no cracks or breaks it should be fine.

7

Gas Discussion / Re: The tokyo marui debate.

« on: December 03, 2012, 07:12:28 PM »

I have given up trying to convince these 'blinded' people that 'full metal' does not equal quality and higher fps doesn't mean a better gun. They continue to operate on a mentality that is simply... wrong. It's actually sickening how marketing and hype create new 'facts' for the average naive user. Clearly kwa is also walmart material because it has some plastic content.

8

Gun Modifications/Parts/Accessories / Re: Questions regarding HS/HT gearset for my setup

« on: November 03, 2012, 08:53:58 PM »

Some of your fps loss is probably due to the blowback system but it could be also be a bad o-ring, wrong spring estimate or worn down spring ect. But don't sweat it if the g&g gears stripped. They are formed by a somewhat less than ideal sintering process and therefore use a relatively soft metal for their gears. They don't last too long no matter what in my experience.

As Merlin pointed out, as you replace one part, the rest of the parts may not stand up to the additional stress. The biggest problem is that your motor probably won't do a good job pulling a heavy spring with a set of highspeed gears if it can pull it at all. Then you may need a better battery, connector, wiring and it's only a matter of time before you'll need a new piston. If you like higher rof and don't want to break the bank, you might just consider dropping a set of standard 18:1s in there with a slightly lighter spring. I run my combat machine (non blowback) on standard jg gears, jg blue motor, an m110, 16awg wiring and an 11.1v lipo. Get's around 380fps, a little over 20rps and has been running strong for two years now.

9

Sniper's Perch / Re: Perfect compression - cylinder filling up with bb's - suggestions

« on: August 28, 2012, 09:04:52 PM »

I'm pretty sure he means that they're rolling back from the hop up into the outer barrel where it joins the receiver, not the cylinder. I had this problem a few years ago with my bar 10. On the bar 10 there is a small hole where bbs can be 'drained' but I'm not sure about the PDI version.

I didn't see mention of which model you had, but either way it's most likely the u-shaped piece is at fault, since that is what stops the bbs from rolling backwards.

You can consider trying one of the following:
-Add a little material (superglue or other cyanoacrylate) to the center of the U on the tab that sticks out to help keep bbs from rolling backwards.
-Replace or elongate the spring so that it presses on the U with a little more force.
-Carve out a very slight dent in the center of the U to help hold the bb in place.
-Slightly sand down the tips of the U so that it can press a little further into the hop up chamber.
There are a number of things that can go wrong if you take off too much material (ie. bolt won't go forward, bbs won't load), so either try the non permanent things first, or try to mess around with half the hop up and make sure sure it's going to help before you mod anything permanently.

10

Problem Solving / Re: Broken CYMA EBR stock.

« on: August 19, 2012, 08:01:33 PM »

In addition to the jb weld in the crack, if there's room, you might consider pinning or jb welding an equivalent shape of sheet metal across one of the flat surfaces.

11

General Airsoft Discussion / Re: Help with removing a tiny screw with stripped head

« on: August 19, 2012, 07:44:00 PM »

Notch it with something like this and then unscrew it.

I don't recommend buying a cheap dremel to drill the hole out since it may not even have enough torque. Even with your drill press you're not going to be able to just drill a hole in the center of the screw, especially looking at the uneven surface of a broken screw head. You first need to create some kind of a countersink to center your drill bit. On a mill would be ideal, but you could improvise by cutting a cross notch with a dremel disc. But if you cut a notch you could probably just unscrew it at that point.

12

Gun Modifications/Parts/Accessories / Re: Looking for a AK47U front sight

« on: August 19, 2012, 07:22:57 PM »

The two pin design is definitely not even close to worth the time involved to modify yours.

I'd call you lucky if the threads are just stripped  Mine is cracked in half right across the pin hole. If you don't plan on ever installing another flash hider, Jb weld, epoxy or even superglue will make it right.

13

Gun Modifications/Parts/Accessories / Re: Looking for a AK47U front sight

« on: August 15, 2012, 09:52:24 PM »

Hm, I seem to recall the sights being exactly the same and interchangeable, between cyma, echo 1, cybergun ect. Except that cybergun likes to pour loctite over anything that has threads. I made some permanent changes to one of my betas a few months ago and if I recall correctly I briefly swapped the cm035 sight and the cybergun beta. I don't know about the TM version though, wouldn't count on a perfect fit.

14

Problem Solving / Re: Full auto feeding issues

« on: August 15, 2012, 09:29:46 PM »

The piston causes the airflow, but the air nozzle moves independently and acts as a bb loader into the hop up chamber.

If the gun misfeeds upside down, then it sounds like there's an obstruction. It could be the nozzle not pulling back far enough or it might just need a good barrel/hop up assembly cleaning.
If it's the nozzle, you might consider installing a sector chip to pull the tappet plate/nozzle assembly back further/longer
The bone shaped one will hold your nozzle back for a little longer:
http://clandestineairsoft.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_6_9&products_id=27
The round shaped one will retract it slightly further:
http://www.evike.com/images/large/Gear_IN0909_lg.jpg

15

Gun Modifications/Parts/Accessories / Re: Looking for a AK47U front sight

« on: August 15, 2012, 09:28:10 PM »

Looks like this is your best bet then if you want it in the near future, you'll at least have plenty of spares 
http://www.godfatherairsoft.com/3-Cybergun-Kalashnikov-AK-Spetsnaz-Full-Metal-Ai-p/3948.htm

16

Gun Modifications/Parts/Accessories / Re: Looking for a AK47U front sight

« on: August 15, 2012, 09:13:18 PM »

I've got the same problem with a cracked sight on my cm035. It's somewhat repaired but I definitely don't use the sling mount anymore, it was pretty cheap to begin with. Unfortunately AirsoftGI has been out of stock for a very long time.
http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?products_id=4696

I'd try contacting Echo1 to see if they can help if GI can't. Otherwise check around for some boneyard jg/cybergun/cyma ak betas.

17

Custom Gun Works / Re: M4 to AK Mag converter design-log

« on: August 03, 2012, 07:12:41 PM »

I somewhat skimmed through your post, I was paying more attention to the original model.

I plan to build the magwell more or less to the same specs as a normal M4 magwell. This means I could print or purchase a normal M4 mag release, and install it.

I see now that you wrote about not having to remove the converter when changing mags in your original post. It's obviously not anything near efficient to make one per mag, I was just putting it mildly based on what I saw in the cad drawing. To address some of your other concerns:

The finished product will have reinforcements just like you mentioned, as well as fillets to present a more professional and finished appearance.

One thing you're going to have to look out for is the strength of the locking lugs. I've snapped the lugs clean off of normal plastic AEG mags, and the plastic is much stronger than what you'll get out of a printer.

This is exactly my point. A 3d printer layers plastic, it is not molded. Reinforcing weak points similar to a normal ak mag will result in a shorter expected life than a standard hicap, hence my suggestion to use metal inserts/attachments.

Generally when you remove an airsoft magazine, a few BBs roll out of the hopup, because the follower of the magazine does not push every BB into the hopup.

Correct

This adapter is essentially a straw, lengthening that dead space, and will cause a few more BBs to roll out every mag.

Correct

Once a highcap is inserted, it will push BBs through the feed tube, into the AK hopup. manufacturing. To include any sort of stopper would add an unnecessary moving part, adding to the cost and difficulty of of manufacturing.

If I'm not mistaken, you didn't specify if you are using hi caps or midcaps. If you are using mids, this point is moot other than the fact that you're losing a significant amount per mag as d4rth pointed out.
Hi caps are a different story. A hi cap relies on a steady feed of bbs into the gravity fed hopper. However if you've ever experienced a mag unwind when you insert it in the magwell, it is because of those 3-4 bbs that it pushes into the hop up. This is not the same as how a mag feeds when the gun is firing because there is no air nozzle moving back and forth to regulate the bb flow which results in a continuous start/stop even at 30+rps. When a mag is inserted, the stopper is released and all the bbs move up at once. Rather than carry bbs from the magazine through the winding wheel, the wheel spins too fast possibly without carrying bbs from the reservoir into the tube which causes a lack of tension on the mag spring and results in the entire thing unwinding. Adding even 5 extra bbs that need to move into position when you insert the mag will magnify the problem. It also depends on the brands and spring tensions ect.
An internal feeding tube with more turns or less smooth turning will have more friction and will lessen the problem but this will limit the rps that your adapter can keep up with. Straight, vertical segments are the opposite, they will allow smoother feeding, increase the potential to keep up with higher rof, but may cause magazine unwinds when inserting a new hi cap.

18

Custom Gun Works / Re: M4 to AK Mag converter design-log

« on: July 31, 2012, 03:02:03 AM »

I would actually rethink your design a little if I were you. The most helpful advice I can offer beyond appropriate fit and tolerances is structure. Both the front and rear of your adapter are potential weak spots. You'll see a most ak mags with a separate metal or plastic lip pinned to the front of the mag and the protrusion in the rear of the adapter is lacking support.

Other problems you will need to address if you haven't started to consider them:
-Ak mags and m4 mags are of similar thickness. Therefore the bottom of the mag well will need to be thicker than the actual part inserted in the magwell to keep from cracking. Take a close look at the tsi armories model.
-The bbs in an m4 mag do not line up with bbs in an ak mag. You'll need an internal pathway to direct the bbs to the hop up. Granted, it's not shown in the drawing, but based on the proportions of the adapter, there is no way the adapter is long enough to allow bbs  to be channeled into the hop up and have enough room to keep the mag from falling out of the adapter. You're looking at at least a 3inch long adapter and yours is maybe 1.
-Mag release? or are you going to make one per mag (which would be the cost of 2 tsi adapters)?
-If you don't have a way to keep bbs from falling out of the adapter, your m4 hicaps will unwind as you insert a new one.
Edit: these seem to be addressed for the most part in collateral's sketch. Though you'll have to figure out a sturdy mag release under the spacial constraints.

19

AEG Discussion / Re: Pricing for used G&G SCAR / Lipos with charger?

« on: July 14, 2012, 07:48:12 PM »

No problem. Yes the jg orange pistons are still soft, the cream ones are infinitely better. The motor can handle the load more than easily, it's just overkill for the setup. More like something you'd see in a dmr setup. It definitely helps if he's part of your local airsoft community, goodluck with your potential purchase.

20

AEG Discussion / Re: Pricing for used G&G SCAR / Lipos with charger?

« on: July 14, 2012, 01:53:56 AM »

I'll take a stab at this but a lot of it depends on actual condition, unspecified brands, as whoever did the internal work. Just to throw it out there, usually someone who has the buyer specify the price doesn't want to part with their gun unless the offer is enticing enough. Either the owner places more value on it than it's worth or it's a rare item. In this case it's not the second one.

For the gun itself, I usually recommend around 60-70% of retail; retail being with or without GI's 15-20% occasional discount is up to you. I hate buying used internals since it really depends on condition and expected life. I'd estimate around 50% of the retail cost, more if installed correctly, less if installed poorly. Total, maybe around 400.

Estimated breakdown is as follows assuming unbranded items are on the budget side (jg quality):
scar 270, barrel 30, mock mock silencer 15? mags 20, motor 30, gears 60? piston -free, tappet plate - free.
deans -free, (subtract if soldered poorly..)
moseft - brand? (a cheap mosfet is worse than no mosfet).

Call me cheap but that's optimistically if everything is in extremely good condition. You could get all this for around 550 brand new (with some smart shopping and a 20% off from GI), so I wouldn't be surprised if he got offers in the 350 range. Why anyone puts Prometheus gears with a very torqy motor with a stock g&g spring is beyond me..
There's always the 'unknown factor' to consider when buying used guns. If you have no idea who the seller is, how he treats his guns, or who put new parts in it, that's a substantial reduction in my book. I don't even consider paying for 'upgrade time' for someone who is not a quality tech. This changes significantly if you're buying from a trusted seller or tech. Anyone who guarantees quality over a quick sale is worth much more.

As for the electrical stuff, the lipos are worth $15 tops used for all 3 together. A cheapo voltage tester is worth $1 new.. so used would be give away. A charger used twice is still used so maybe $20 tops. The accucel 6 can be had new for under $30 shipped with adapters included and the batteries go for $30+ shipping. No mention of a power supply which is required for the charger. I never understand the 'brand new but used' line. Sounds like he might also give you the 'I paid $700 in upgrades plus a $400 gun and I only want $700 for all of it' line. But that is for you to find out 

I'm sure others have their own take on this especially since I don't buy much used stuff and I definitely don't buy anything that uses an m4 mag 

21

Spring Discussion / Re: Is this a rip off?

« on: July 05, 2012, 02:17:09 PM »

See if you can dig up one of those co2 24/7s on ebay. 'Might' be able to get a new one for around $40 with the right auction. Otherwise there's used ones for around that price or airsoftmegastore has them new for $50. They're really not bad to carry for the price and it will find more use than a springer. I'd say that's about the minimum for starting with a pistol, otherwise it's not really worth having a backup.

Option 2 is getting a cheap shotgun, which will also serve you much better than a spring pistol for about the same price. It's just a little more bulky to carry.
http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?cPath=139_181&products_id=3441

22

General Airsoft Discussion / Re: How do you check the flight of black bb

« on: May 03, 2012, 11:03:03 PM »

I test them when it snows but I guess that's over half a year away 

23

Problem Solving / Re: Strange ROF issues

« on: April 20, 2012, 03:00:18 AM »

Did you check all your solder joints? In my experience, a poorly soldered joint causes fluctuations as stated above.

More connections = more resistance, but the battery sling extension should be fine if you eliminated all the tamiya connections on it. 18 gauge is also alright and should be fine if the motor is stock. If all your joints are solid, just put your hand on some of the external wires and see if you feel a good amount of heat shooting through it when you pull the trigger. It should remain relatively cool/warm, but not getting too hot.

24

Gun Modifications/Parts/Accessories / Re: LiPo batteries? How to effectively use and maintain the battery and the AEG?

« on: April 20, 2012, 02:46:21 AM »

a member of my local forum though his might be getting a little puffy so he decided to poke a hole in it to let it breathe.

Do you think he can provide a step by step for that, maybe with pictures? 


Callsign, it is difficult to 'equate' the performance of lipos to nimh batteries in general terms. Technically a fully charged 9.6v nimh would be closer to an 11.1v lipo if it had the same output and efficiency of a lipo. What it really comes down to is that you can choose a variety of outputs for your lipos to maximize motor performance at that particular voltage level. How it will affect your gun's performance relative to the current setup depends on the motor your using and the specific lipo that is replacing your specific nimh pack. The amount of amps a battery can supply is mostly determined based on it's capacity. For example: larger capacity, well made nimh packs (like 4000mah) tend to have much higher outputs than mini 1400mah 9.6v packs. Few/if any low capacity nimh packs have anywhere near the possible outputs of lipos. If you have upgraded your motor to any decent aftermarket motor, it will require more amps than a lot of nimh packs can provide to get maximum performance. Therefore, to do so would require high battery discharge rates which can be obtained through lipos or larger capacity nimh packs.

Other reasons to move from nimh to lipo:
Cost - possibly higher investment cost, but much lower battery cost.
Spacial constraints - lipos are smaller & lighter with higher capacity, and come in lots of shapes.
- Cold weather doesn't bother lipos
- Faster charge times

25

Problem Solving / Re: My friends wire caught fire any ideas?

« on: April 20, 2012, 02:19:20 AM »

Either a short in the circuit or too much current going through small wires on that adapter. Either way, once the wire insulation melts, the circuit shorts and burns things.