This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

1

Problem Solving / Re: Is AEG Motor Brush Spring Failure Preventable

« on: January 10, 2012, 04:13:39 PM »

Excellent advice.  Thanks.

2

Problem Solving / Re: Is AEG Motor Brush Spring Failure Preventable

« on: January 09, 2012, 04:35:53 PM »

It was 20 degrees F, crawling in the snow with gloves on...so, I don't recall the grip getting particularly hot.  But, I know that extended burst firing in the summer has made the grip a little toasty.  I'll have to check the copper wire more closely.  Anything else I should look at?

3

Problem Solving / Is AEG Motor Brush Spring Failure Preventable

« on: January 09, 2012, 09:02:40 AM »

Yesterday, right in the middle of a game, one of the torsion brush springs failed in my G&P M120 motor.  The motor runs an upgraded Echo 1 M4 with 9.6V SC battery, Deans connectors, MOSFET, and a Modify SP120 spring.  I cannibalized a spring from the original Echo 1 motor and now the gun fires perfectly again.  The fatigued brush spring had a bluish color and had broken in two places.  Has anyone else suffered failed motor brush springs in their AEG?  According to a October 2009 post (Motor Brush Spring Issues), if the copper wire is not positioned right then the spring may be carrying the current.  When is the right time to replace brushes?

4

Basic Training <--- YOUR FIRST POSTS HERE / Re: Painting airsoft guns

« on: October 28, 2011, 06:24:30 AM »

I had the same paint peeling problem until I started using plastic primer (RustOleum makes some).  It's a clear-coat spray paint that conditions the plastic surface.  Then, after it's dry, I can use any regular colored spray paint over that.  Makes the paint job fairly durable...won't peel off, just wear over time.

5

Problem Solving / Re: echo 1 scar

« on: October 15, 2011, 08:48:38 PM »

It could be that the trigger return spring is broken.  In full auto, the trigger trolley remains engaged with the trigger so that the trigger trolley return spring also pulls back the trigger.  But, in semi-auto, the cut-off lever disengages these two parts.  With a broken return spring, the trigger then gets stuck on semi-auto.  A replacement can be found at http://www.evike.com/product_info.php?products_id=35930, for example.

6

Basic Training <--- YOUR FIRST POSTS HERE / Re: What have you broken lately?

« on: October 05, 2011, 11:44:10 AM »

Cut-off lever worn down and lost semi-auto (original metal too soft)
Trigger spring, trigger trolley return spring, gearbox anti-reverse lever boss, and pistol grip motor plate all just fatigued and had to be replaced
Piston teeth broken and ground up after running SP120 spring, high-speed motor, and 9.6v battery (got better piston with 2nd tooth removed)
Totally fried electrical contacts with above spring/motor/battery combo (switched to MOSFET wire set)
And, last but not least, broke both upper receiver tabs on ABS plastic body...

7

Basic Training <--- YOUR FIRST POSTS HERE / Re: Do you prefer iron sights or a scope on your AEG?

« on: September 15, 2011, 06:52:24 AM »

I keep going back and forth between iron sights and a 4x32 compact scope on my M4 Commando.  We play predominantly woodland games where the cover varies from thick brush to big trees to open fields.  I like the scope for the more open areas (i.e. long, accurate shots), but visibility can be a pain in the neck when it’s raining or snowing.  So, iron sights seem best in bad weather conditions or with denser cover when quick acquisition is required (scope just gets in the way).

8

Basic Training <--- YOUR FIRST POSTS HERE / Re: Torn between guns. Please voice your opinion.

« on: February 27, 2011, 12:12:45 PM »

My son has the Cybergun M1A1 Thompson and Echo 1 G36C.  Even in stock condition the Thompson shoots pretty well...consistent hop-up, decent range.  But, there is virtually nothing to modify or upgrade externally without looking silly.  So, it's easy to get bored with it unless you're dedicated to WWII load-outs.  On the G36C, he added rails, installed a tightbore barrel, and upgraded to a 9.6v battery (minor mod under handguard).  The G36C is a solid and reliable performer.  He's put maybe 25,000 BBs through it with no problems whatsoever.  Shoots straight with good range, but nice compact size (foldable stock) and very versatile.  Plus, there are dozens of modification options (e.g. stocks, sights, barrel extensions).  I'd vote for the G36C.

9

Problem Solving / Over-Cycling CYMA CM030 AEP Gearbox with Custom Battery?

« on: February 22, 2011, 11:48:57 AM »

The original 7.2v battery for my stock CYMA CM030 is slowly dying.  So, instead of simply buying a replacement, I rewired the AEP for an external NiMH battery pack that attaches under the barrel (like a laser or flashlight).  The battery is a custom 7.2v 1500mah NiMH made of six Elite 2/3A cells.  The problem I’m facing is that the gearbox now seems to over-cycle each shot on semi-automatic.  With the original battery, it would first load a BB, fire the piston, and stop with the nozzle partially back.  Now it fires first, loads the next BB, and stops with a BB in the chamber and nozzle fully forward.  Sometimes this loaded BB rolls out the barrel even with the hop-up set right.  And with certain BBs, I get double feeds.  I checked the reversal stop latch, tappet plate and cam, semi-auto cut-off plate, hop-up, and magazines.  All appear fine and all function normally with the original battery.  So, I’m looking for advice as to why the gearbox over-cycles with this new battery.  Should I go with a lower voltage pack?  A stronger main spring?  Do people with custom installed 7.4v Lipo battery packs face this same cycling/loading issue?

10

Problem Solving / M4 Wire Overheating and Motor Stalling?

« on: November 17, 2010, 09:12:11 AM »

I’m trying to find and fix the root cause for wire overheating and motor stalling on my upgraded Echo 1 M4 Commando.  When I fire a dozen short bursts in quick succession, the wires and MOSFET get very hot and the eventually the motor can’t pull the spring back until everything cools down again.  

In this gun I have a 9.4v 3300mah SC battery (rear battery pouch), small Tamiya connectors, JG MOSFET with 30 amp fuse, G&P M120 HS motor, standard ratio gear set, and Modify SP120 spring.  Not sure about the wire gage.  I think I’ve shimmed the gearbox pretty carefully.

So, do I switch to large Tamiya or Deans connectors, upgrade to a torque motor, change to a torque gear set, increase wire gage, just drop down to a SP110 spring, or some combination?  I’ll probably first try putting the original JG/Echo 1 motor back in and see what happens.  Any other thoughts about how to solve this overheating?

EDIT:  I'll replace the small Tamiya connectors with Deans and rewire completely with 16 gage.  I was going to then bypass the selector plate which leaves only the mechanical trigger safety.

EDIT:  I'm gonna order Deans connectors and wire tomorrow.  Then reshim again and think about dropping in my extra Guarder SP110 spring.  Thanks guys.  Sorry to be the cause of a fuse discussion.

11

Problem Solving / Piston Metal Teeth Rack Sliding/Separating

« on: November 04, 2010, 10:48:04 AM »

I fine tuned the angle of engagement between the sector gear and piston (Bravo) by placing washers under the piston head.  But, I forgot that the washer OD had to be large enough to secure the metal teeth rack back in its piston groove.  So, when the piston slammed forward, the metal rack’s momentum made it slide forward causing a gear tooth separation between the plastic and metal teeth.  When the gap got too wide, the sector gear couldn’t drive through it and the gearbox locked up.  Lesson learned for me is to get the right OD washers.  Feel kinda stupid for not remembering that the metal rack slides.  Wonder if anyone else has ever had this problem?  Did a search, but couldn't find anything close.

12

AEG Discussion II / Re: JG Gearbox Gear Hole Misalignment

« on: October 24, 2010, 07:51:26 AM »

My replacement JG gearbox had the holes in the proper locations, but one set of holes was put in a little crooked so that the bushings when seated tried to "bend" the gear shafts.  With a strong, sharp knife and small round file I scrapped a tiny bit of material from the innner diameter until the bushing sat square.  So, it took a lot of tedious fine tuning, but now the gearbox works very well.  At the time I was too cheap to invest in a higher quality gearbox.

13

Problem Solving / Re: How to fix Version 2 Gearbox Trigger Block?

« on: October 14, 2010, 06:12:11 AM »

I did this repair on my son's JG G3 gearbox.  Got a 1/16 inch roll pin at the hardware store.  Carefully drilled a pilot hole where the post snapped off.  Pressed in the roll pin.  Then, dremeled off the excess pin length so that all the other parts fit back into the gearbox.  Works great.

14

Airsoft News / Re: Evike.com announces our Really BIG Sale and Airsoft Expo!

« on: August 24, 2010, 06:07:01 AM »

Here's one more post.

3,000 mile drive from Vermont, so on-line coupon code would be great.

15

Problem Solving / Re: Echo 1 M4 not firing?

« on: August 09, 2010, 12:54:10 PM »

Another thing to check is the motor connections.  Sometimes the connectors can vibrate off the motor flanges.  Take the bottom plate of the pistol grip and check the wires.

16

Tactics / Re: How to deal with campers?

« on: June 09, 2010, 06:28:08 AM »

Like sackbagjr said, there are game scenarios that require everyone on both sides to move.  Games like path fall-back or center flag establish objectives that cannot be achieved by camping.  In these particular games, any campers would end up sitting off by themselves the entire game (not seeing anyone, not firing one BB) which should be less fun than getting hit.  Maybe they'd learn that getting hit ain't so bad.

17

AEG Discussion II / Re: Barrel wobble in the jg m16A4 ris

« on: June 02, 2010, 11:52:02 AM »

Try LocTite.  My Echo 1 M4 Commando has a multi-piece barrel.  I got a small  bottle of LocTite and put it in between the two barrel pieces that slide together, then into the threads of the set screws themselves.  Then I torqued on the nut under the delta ring that holds the barrel to the lower receiver.  No more barrel wobble.

18

General Airsoft Discussion / Re: BB Weight vs. FPS vs. Joules

« on: April 18, 2010, 12:45:40 PM »

The analogy about BB weight I like to think of (albeit not perfect) is: which can you throw further with more accuracy, a ping-pong ball or golf ball?

19

Gun Modifications/Parts/Accessories / Re: G&P Shorty flash Hider length?

« on: March 31, 2010, 06:38:07 AM »

When I replaced a 300mm barrel with a 363mm barrel in my M4 Commando, I added an Element (or G&P) Stubby Killer Mock mock silencer as a barrel extension for less than $30.  It's only about 4 inches long and works perfectly for me.

20

Gun Modifications/Parts/Accessories / Re: best magnified sight on an m4?

« on: March 28, 2010, 08:48:58 PM »

For almost 2 years, I've used a Leapers 4x32 compact scope (SCP-432M1) $25 with offset mount (RGWMOFS38-25H4) $15 on my M4 Commando AEG.  I've used it in rain, snow, and cold and have always been pleased with its overall performance, utility, and quality.  Good eye relief.  Holds its settings.  Quick and easy to pull up and target.  Sure not as cool looking as an ACOG, but gets the job done.

21

Problem Solving / Re: Semi Auto Trigger stick issues.

« on: March 23, 2010, 06:58:02 AM »

Make sure that you double check what springs come in these spring sets.  I think that most do not include the torsional trigger spring.  Usually the two torsion springs are for the anti-reverse latch and safety lever, not the trigger.  And, I'm not sure that they'll be the right shape or strong enough.  Check out http://www.airsoftgunrepair.com/catalog/item/6792188/6705879.htm

22

AEG Discussion / Re: High Speed versus High Velocity

« on: March 16, 2010, 11:46:29 AM »

I've got my M4 set up for high rate of fire (G&P M120 motor with 9.6v) instead of high muzzle velocity because a) once I've got the target lined up, I can squeeze off a 3-4 round burst very quickly with nice dispersion (assuming my hop-up is dialed in just right), and b) I don't have to worry so much about hurting my friends (e.g. blood, teeth) when inside 110 feet

23

General Airsoft Discussion / Re: Best Personal Investment(s) in Airsoft

« on: September 18, 2009, 06:38:05 AM »

1.)  9.6v nunchuck battery (for M733) to increase ROF
2.)  Prescription bi-focal safety glasses (I'm over 50)
3.)  4x32 compact scope to improve minor targeting adjustments

24

AEG Discussion II / Re: Echo 1 M4 commando question

« on: August 26, 2009, 12:49:18 PM »

I have an Echo 1 M4 Commando and switched to a 9.6v battery many months ago.  I've had no problems, but I did reshim and install a metal spring guide.  I think that so long as you don't fire really long bursts, then you should be okay.

25

Problem Solving / Re: Cut-off lever engages, trigger slips

« on: June 09, 2009, 12:35:01 PM »

This sounds like a similar thing that happened to my JG T3-K3.  After taking the gearbox apart, I noticed that part of the left gearbox housing was broken.  There's a stand-off nub just behind the trigger switch assembly that stops the connector when it's pulled back by the spring when in semi-auto.  When the cut-off lever lifts the connector up, the spring pulls it back until it hits the housing nub.  With this nub broken off, the connector just kept going backwards, and can not re-engage the trigger.  There are three choices:  buy a new gearbox housing, invent some nub-like thing to install in the gearbox, or modify the cut-off lever to not engage the connector (which then gives you full-auto only).  That's my best guess.