This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

1

Sniper's Perch / Re: Long range target shooting competition: rifle setup and upgrades? [Tanaka M40A1]

« on: May 07, 2012, 08:59:02 PM »

Get a PDI 6.04 barrel they have strict tolerances. I would use SGM 0.29g or bioval 0.3g BBs, unless you are doing the 400 ft range, in which case you will want to use something very heavy. Clean your barrel every 10 shots, wash your bucking, and BBs before the competition in warm water, make sure you get any residue or soap build up out of it.

Practice with the above conditions before the competition, so you know what settings are optimal to use (hopup, and bb combination.) For example, 0.29g SGMs for the 200 ft range/300 ft range, and 0.4g bb's for the 400 ft range. Practice reading the wind, use wind indicators every 100 feet.

Throwing money at your gun only goes so far, if you really want to win you will need to follow it up with TLC (Tender-Love&Care), and practice.

2

Sniper's Perch / Re: Greater Range Due to Increased bucking contact surface

« on: July 17, 2011, 03:59:43 PM »

spin is spin. The bb will be spinning at some RPM no matter what system you use. The system may be more consistent, or give more range than the previous system because the spin is more finely tuned, but no system (in my mind) will 'magically' give you more range. 

My education in mechanical engineering agrees with this assessment completely. You want more range? overhop, or add power. Problem with overhop - it's no longer a flat trajectory. Problem with power, it's no longer safe. This system should be evaluated for it's consistency against others. NOT range.

3

Sniper's Perch / Re: Help create a Vsr10 from 0 ( 0.99J )

« on: July 10, 2011, 01:33:41 PM »

I have to agree with what DHM78 has said. Since you are limited to precisely 1Joule of energy the selection of components is simplified. I would recommend your focus be on consistency.This can be done with focus on hopup, reducing air leaks, proper cleaning, and testing.

Cylinder/piston
You don't need a lot of the components you have been looking at. A barikaru, HD, or Palsonite cylinder are unnecessary since you already have hit your power limit. Look at the components for their consistency performance only. I would inspect your current setup and test the compression of the cylinder/piston set. If you have any leaks, go through and teflon tape the cylinder head. Clean and polish your cylinder. Inspect the o-ring, relube with a high viscosity grease safe for airsoft. Ensure your cylinder isn't shooting any of the grease before reinstalling it into the barrel, this is a common noob mistake. It can shoot the lube onto your hopup and in your barrel, making your shots very inconsistent.

Hopup/Barrel
If you can afford it buy all the components you think will help your consistency. Some parts to consider purchasing for testing would be: Nineball bucking, TM hopup unit, Tanio Koba, or PDI 6.01. I personally run a PDI 6.01 and have been happy with it. I will say that it can get adversely dirty easily. If any dirt or particles get in it, you will immediately notice a drop in performance as there is little gap between the barrel and the BB. Bigger barrels like 6.03/6.04 might be more optimal for the dirty sport of airsoft, strictly for that reason alone. I'd say PDI 6.01 needs to be cleaned right before ever game day. I know one person who has used the Tanio Koba twist barrel in an AEG. He said it was more accurate but required frequent cleaning as the grooves would get dirty easily. IMHO get a smooth barrel, unless you are willing to buy and test both. Ultimately, you'll never know what is better without testing it yourself.

My word about hopup... there is no perfect answer. Noobie's TDC kit is great if you can get it. A properly tweaked a stock hopup can be as good or better than a TM hopup, but the TM hopup takes some of the work out of it, because it is simply made better. Hopup's are finicky things, and require continual attention and testing.

TEST TEST TEST
Don't take someone else's word for it, if you are unsure what is better, try both! Here is a video about tweaking i released recently, might have some useful info in it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=do0bN2_HKUM

4

Sniper's Perch / Re: Looking for Zero trigger assembly picture/guide

« on: June 22, 2011, 09:40:02 PM »

Did this awhile ago, but it might help see some of the components moving. The picture Kabong posted is great.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lfSM2MVJq7w

5

Sniper's Perch / Re: What's the best face protection for Snipers?

« on: June 01, 2011, 03:44:47 PM »

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Ignore the super reflective sunglasses i was wearing that day. I got this head covering for about 6$ at walmart. I used to run a ghillie, but i've found if you properly conceal your head, hands, and gun, it's easy to hide without one.

6

Sniper's Perch / Re: The “How To” Achieve 300’ Shots Sniper Collaboration

« on: May 24, 2011, 04:41:32 AM »

I saw this video along time ago and loved it. One thing that comes to mind with your video and others I've seen is how to prepare the target. Spray paint it white and wait for it dry, then paint it black. (weak cardboard and camo black spray paint works best) This does two things, one, the black outer makes it easier to track the bbs for camera's on the target. Two, if the bb manages to break the surface of the paint it will show the hit due to the white paint underneath.

Cool Trick AchilliesWar. I'll give that a go the next time i'm out

7

Sniper's Perch / Re: The “How To” Achieve 300’ Shots Sniper Collaboration

« on: May 23, 2011, 02:31:05 AM »

I don't believe my rifle was ever capable of achieving MarineSGT's kind of performance, but then again i run a much lower FPS then MarineSGT so it's field legal where I play.

Base Rifle:  JB BAR10
Upgraded FPS Benchmark:  490(+/-5) FPS
Benchmark BB Weight:  .20
Field Use BB Weight/Brand:  .36g madbull @ 410 FPS (2.8 joules)
Effective Range: 200-250’ roughly.
Max Range ever: 375' (confirmed on target)

Notable upgrade mods specific to range accomplishments:  
Laylax Zero Trigger, custom made spring guide, Laylax cylinder head - partial ported on lathe, Laylax piston, Broken-in Laylax M170, Custom hop-up arm, Noobie bucking, Noobie ABB rings, PDI 430mm 6.01 inner barrel, Ghetto tape barrel spacers.

I used to utilize 0.36g madbull bb's because people call their hits. Using 0.29 SGM is more accurate, but more susceptible to wind, and less likely of a called hit on impact at 200'+. Obviously a debatable point, just my opinion based on my experiences in the field, and the optimization of my rifle. I just picked up a bag of 0.3 bioval, so we'll see how those fair. I will not be posting any performance claims, as I have not measured it in some time.


Old video of effective range, rifle has changed a lot since this video.
WARNING FOUL LANGUAGE IN VIDEO

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f1kRrTfHrNo

Old video of max range.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GBiL0C0nClU

Free time just around the corner. Graduating college soon. I intend to hit my rifle with some TLC. Buy a mill/lathe, finish my CNC machine. I wonder what the future holds...

8

Sniper's Perch / Re: PDI parts just snapping!?

« on: May 11, 2011, 06:26:30 PM »

In some cases, heavier pistons are better for specific setups. (I tend to believe heavier is better for snipers shooting 0.3's and heavier, but the optimal setup is different for everyone.) A light piston will accelerate quickly, where a heavy piston will carry more momentum which is generally better for setups using heavier bb's. (MarineSGT setup for example.) It's all about the optimization of barrel length, piston weight, bb wieght, and cylinder volume.

I have experienced this phenomena before. Unfortunately, it's been too long and I don't have the specific data to assist in my point. I'll cite a made up example to help explain.

For example, You may have a rifle that shoots:
450 fps with 0.2's (1.87 joules)
400 fps with 0.3's (2.22 joules)

What's this? you have more muzzle energy with 0.3's? This is because your rifle is more efficient at pushing the energy in the spring into the heavier BB. I know for a fact, that tweaking the piston's weight WILL effect your rifles efficiency, thus your FPS, and the muzzle energy (the most meaningful value.) Try it! calculate the muzzle energy for different rifle configurations (heavy piston vs. light weight piston), and you WILL see a difference. Cool thing is this means you can figure out the "sweet spot" rifle build for your favorite BB weight, and make it hit harder!

Noobie has played with this in the past concerning barrel/cylinder volume.

You can calculate muzzle energy with: http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/?filnavn=/articles/fps_limits/fps_calc.htm

or KE = 0.5 m v^2

9

General Airsoft Discussion / Re: A warning about Bioval .27's

« on: April 02, 2011, 07:30:33 PM »

Today, I shot a glass bottle with my 450 FPS(rated with 0.2's) using Bioval .27's. Here's is what happened on the first shot.



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

10

Sniper's Perch / Re: DIY Piston and Head?

« on: November 28, 2010, 04:46:59 PM »

Wait I am confused lol. Are you making a cylinder head or a new nozzle for your current cylinder head?

For a piston, I highly urge you to look into light weight materials since that is where the FPS boost is at. I would try making a piston out of teflon, acrylic, PVC, plexiglass etc etc. Hopefully you will be able to find these materials in sizes you can machine.

You might be surprised to hear this, but I do know that in some cases it is more optimal for the piston to be heavier as it carries more momentum and can provide higher pressure against the BB. Now this optimal weight is related to your FPS, and spring, barrel volume, cylinder volume, and BB weight. So the relationship must be scientifically tested (change 1 variable, keep the rest constant, etc..)

I read some documentation from asia where they tested this very phenomena, and increased piston weight and observed a gain in FPS. I distinctly remember this relationship for their testing. Unfortunately, you will have to take my word for it as I no longer have the link.

All things considered... I would recommend testing various weights. Just be aware there is an optimal piston weight for the related variables listed above and my experience indicates lighter is not necessarily better.

11

Sniper's Perch / Re: Stripped trigger mech mounting points on a Bar10. Solutions?

« on: November 27, 2010, 09:11:37 PM »

Agree. Drill/Tap in a larger screw.

There are drill/tap tables on google to help you get the right hole size. Talking to Noobie, MarineSGT will all be able to direct to the right resources. I've done this to a couple of my bar-10's. Even did it without a tap once since the metal is so soft. It's sad but works. Drill/Tap will give you a proper thread engagement.

12

Sniper's Perch / Re: Flat VSR-10 hop up arm (Updated w.Pics!)

« on: November 27, 2010, 09:01:32 PM »

Nick, I am sorry but qweqweasd's link was the first that I have seen of your designs. Had I known someone else was offering this, I would have just bought them from you and saved me the effort.

I did come to the design by my own course though... Since Evike was sold out of replacement hop ups, I figured this would be more cost effective than buying a TM one or a used Bar-10.

I started by having my friend who works at welding tab shop scan my original Hop up and I cleaned up the result on Solidworks. From there I played with the thickness of the bottom, played with the slope angle and finally the tips.

Here are the semi, Octagonal and Tri Tips I drew up first...

No worries. Good luck with your designs. Solidworks is indeed a great platform to work with. In reference to making these types of arms, the two prong are difficult to make to tight tolerances. It looks like you've filed your arms manually. Which does work but requires a great deal of skill. How did you make the slots in yours?


SVT Cobra,
I just dropped in to check what's new. If i get back into the community it won't be something small like hopup arms. I'd rather design a whole new sniper platform from scratch. Right now it's within my full skill set, but a dual degree in manufacturing and mechanical engineering is taking all of my time. Once I finish building my CNC machine the capabilities for major projects will open up.

13

Sniper's Perch / Re: Flat VSR-10 hop up arm (Updated w.Pics!)

« on: November 24, 2010, 07:45:35 PM »

After some trial and error with different materials and designs, I came to this....

Several designs? That looks similar to some of the work I did with Noobie. I don't mind if you make exact copies, but if you do at least give a little credit
http://www.airsoftretreat.com/forums/index.php?topic=85687.0

14

Sniper's Perch / Re: Groupings w/ Pics Using Various Setups

« on: December 18, 2009, 07:18:46 PM »

Thanks for doing these groupings. It's helpful to everyone to see comparisons of various setups.

If you want tip top groupings try doing some of these things:
==========================================
* I'd recommend cleaning your barrel with isopropyl alcohol with 1 rifle swipe, let it set for a minute or two, then dry swipe the barrel like 4-8 times till it comes out spotless clean, and to finish do a wipe with a drop or two of silicon on it followed by a dry swipe. This leaves a thin film on the barrel, reducing friction on the BB.

* I must agree washing the BB's will help. Along with testing bioval or SGM bbs.

* Wash your bucking with warm soapy water, i'm sure there is residue built up on it and in your barrel.



By the way, you have some parts in the mail that may merit additional testing Good luck!

15

Sniper's Perch / Re: Noobie's BAR10 Hopup Project

« on: December 01, 2009, 09:43:37 PM »

You can adjust the hopup at any time by simply turning the screw.

16

Sniper's Perch / Re: MP001 Mods+ Mini Review [Semi-Complete Table of Cont. on Pg. 1]

« on: November 19, 2009, 01:51:49 AM »

If you put tape on the spring, be careful, I've since found that the mod can eventually cause the rifle to jam. The electrical tape will eventually gum/bunch up on the sears and prevent the trigger from functioning properly. It may be ok, if you regularly maintenance the cylinder, just be aware of that issue.

17

Custom Gun Works / Re: Noobie's G-Spec Project

« on: November 10, 2009, 03:37:53 AM »

To accurately reach the peak efficiency point we could simply put a 5mm -10mm spacer (like a sorbo pad) cut/test until you start to lose power, then remove the spacer (to gain back volume.)  Then you can decide to cut the spacer's thickness as well.

Might take some of the guessing out of it.

18

Custom Gun Works / Re: Noobie's G-Spec Project

« on: November 10, 2009, 01:49:35 AM »

First Noobie, thank you for taking the time to document your test results, it will certainly provide many(including myself) with a quantifiable place to start modifying our weapons with.

Taking the same stock spring with full spacers which generated 520fps on a 500mm barrel build, and having the G-Spec setup for 100% compression @ the muzzle (TF Bucking Kit), I set out to recover as much velocity as possible without crossing the above mentioned threshold.

You mention the full spring spacers in this one. Forgive me if I missed it - did you use any sort of spring spacer for these tests?

The burning question is…. What length barrel produces the most true trajectory & flight?

The only way we can answer that question is with the most consistent hopup system possible, and changing the barrel length(the variable in question.)

If we note a difference in groupings, and trajectory we may be closer to answering this question. Such a test should be conducted with a ported cylinder head, to minimize the turbulent air variable. With the performance ranges we are hitting, it may even necessitate indoor testing to eliminate wind as a variable.

Airsoft science has never been an easy endeavor, but a rewarding one at that

19

Sniper's Perch / Re: 9Battousai's Rifle Projects (56k warning)

« on: November 05, 2009, 03:14:06 AM »

Speaking of hopup arm shapes:
This is still a subject being tested extensively, although it is my belief that under ideal conditions, a flat arm will offer greater consistency, while a curved arm or SCS arm will offer greater hopup potential, if with slightly less consistency. All designs utilize the bottom of the barrel as their method of alignment, although the shaped arms (even the stock 'fanged' arm) can potentially add an uneven hop, if not centered perfectly.

I also believe in the performance capabilities of the flat arm, and use it in my own rifles (although u might say i'm biased .) I imagine it will be some time before the debate ends, lol. Make no mistake this is not a bad thing, tuning and testing is how we can find even better performance.

System limits are another thing to consider. If one chooses a footprint that is too wide for their barrel window, then the overall hop that can be applied is diminished. Nickswimsfast has graciously informed me that the average barrel window is approximately 3.8mm, which gives us some numbers to work with.

Forgive me 9Battousai, I quoted a number off the top of my head in that pm. In retrospect, I think it is likely that the 3.8mm distance is the width i've used for hopup arm protrusion tests. In my personal testing that distance was likely the width of the prong entering the barrel, while still allowing sufficient clearance for the window.

Here's a measurement from a stock JG bar-10 barrel window size. I suspect every barrel will be slightly different, so if you want to pursue this venture, i'd recommend measuring your own barrel window as shown in the picture and deciding a slightly smaller prong width for fabrication.



-------------------------------
concerning the Denel -

Looks like you are starting a one of a kind rifle build. Some time in the shop, a little pocket change, and a lot of determination will get you there. PS - halo fanatics will go nuts if they hear about this guy lol. I see a lot of manufacturing difficulties in perfectly emulating the original rifle, although I think you've already got a good start on the original design intent. Keep at it, i look forward to hearing how it fairs!

just for reference.

20

Sniper's Perch / Re: Making a GSpec as quiet as you can...

« on: October 27, 2009, 02:50:26 AM »

Removed, my apologies.

As to recommendations about pistons, any brand will suffice, just consider the benefit of the airbrake as it alone can provide a huge sound dampening effect.

21

Sniper's Perch / Re: Making a GSpec as quiet as you can...

« on: October 27, 2009, 02:15:45 AM »

This may be pertinent to you... It's from a post i made earlier in 'Nickswimsfast Projects' thread. X-ring should be fine. Hope this helps you on your goal

Silencing Treatise
There is nothing you can do to your rifle to reduce the "whizzing" sound of BBs. The only thing that can reduce that effect is to simply increase the weight of your BB. This will reduce the velocity, but maintain a similar muzzle energy.

I have never observed teflon taping any part of the rifle to reduce the report of the gun. All the rumored sound reducing mods one could do that I can think of at the moment are:

- Filling the stock with some sound dampening material, cotton, foam, sand, glue, etc..etc..
- #14 o-ring to add friction in the cylinder slowing the piston's impact at the cost of fps
- Sorbothane impact pad on cylinder head
- Barrel Porting (like Edgi's)
- Air brake on piston
- silencing the trigger with dampening material (tape, cotton, clay, etc.. etc..)
- Weaker spring
- Filling voids within outer barrel with sound dampening material

Try to be practical with this silencing goal, it doesn't take much to get your gun quieter to the point that the standard AEG will not notice it outside 120 feet. Especially, if they are shooting. If you want some field tips to not being noticed while running a silent sniper rifle here are some quick ones to being unnoticed:

- Shoot at targets only when they are walking/shooting/moving (so they can't hear beyond their own noises or breath)
- Shoot from locations far enough behind objects that the sound will "ricochet" off those objects and obscure the sound location of your shot. Example, Lay prone behind a fallen log about 10 feet back. Shoot underneath it so most of the sound from the shot is blocked by the log or ground. This makes it more difficult for the enemy to pinpoint the location of the shot, because it sounds like it is in a general direction rather than a specific direction.
- Shoot farther away, 100-200 feet is usually enough distance to make the report of the shot almost undiscernable. Typically enemies only hear the "whizzing" sound of my BBs, not the actual shot.

Hope this information helps you achieve your goal of silence.

22

Sniper's Perch / Re: Anyone ever seen these rifles in action?

« on: October 20, 2009, 05:28:13 PM »

It should be "necro" not the word you typed.

Does someone compared the RHF Rifle with a tuned VSR?

Lets say the VSR is tuned with followings parts:

Edgi 500mm 6mm Barrel
Noobie M-trigger
Noobie TDC Kit
Noobie TF Bucking
Polarstar Springguide,Piston
Barrelspacer
Laylax cylinder,cylinderheat.
Laylax SP170

I know that noobie parts are rather new but what you think which one is more accurate and has longer range?

To answer your question sharingan-

As I know, no one has done that specific comparison. Also, as you said those components are very new, so i'd say it is unlikely any such comparison with those components has ever been conducted. It would indeed be an impressive battle to see those two go at it.

Accuracy would need to be bench compared. At this point it's too early to say which would be better, as it would be pure speculation.

A max range test would serve little purpose. Here's why: the RHF rifle can adjust the air pressure with the HPA system. I wouldn't be surprised if you could push it to dangerous velocities. (600-800 FPS)

As for a spring system they also can reach into the 600-800 fps range. It's merely a function of the spring, compression, barrel, and ammo in roughly that order and MarineSGT has proven spring systems can reach over 800 fps. He has also showed that a high velocity setup such as that can reach out to 400 feet. Though I'd venture a guess that MarineSGT never engages anyone at that range if only due to the shear travel time.

I bet this question roots from your desire to be the best sniper you can be. If that is so I'd recommend focusing on getting the most consistency in the 150-250 foot range. That's the ideal kill zone for us airsoft snipers. Don't worry so much about range when your rounds can make it to 250 feet consistently. Physics dictates even if you hit someone over 300 feet, they are likely not going to feel it, as most rounds will lose a huge amount of impact energy.

hope that answers your question!

-Nick

23

Sniper's Perch / Re: nickswimsfast's new hopup arms

« on: October 18, 2009, 03:35:58 PM »

Trasher, forgive me if i'm taking your question out of context, but SVT Cobra may have answered your question.

Both of Nick's arms are excellent products and both have excellent advantages, mainly high precision at a low cost and little tweaking. Even 3 inches from the unmodified (with the exception of sanding for fitment) Standard arm is darned respectable. I am currently using Nick's SCS arm in my rifle because I hate shimming so much. I would be one of the first people to recommend a new player either of Nick's arms for their "Awesomenessicity" (not a word I know)

As to the discussion about performance at different ranges... Both far and close testing should be conducted. Close range tests have the advantage that wind will have less of an impact on the grouping. 150+ foot testing has the advantage of really demonstrating the behavior of the hopup. I think there is value in both types of tests.

Please guys, lets not let this get out of hand. All that remains to be done is more testing.

24

Sniper's Perch / Re: nickswimsfast's new hopup arms

« on: October 17, 2009, 09:00:13 PM »

First let me say, I believe SVT Cobra did an excellent review that is highly detailed and annotated. While internet users may not recognize it, there is a LOT of work that goes into simply doing a review as you did. I really appreciate it.

I must admit in this case "My-Highly-Modded-TM-Designed-JG-Made-2-Prong-Arm" sounds more appropriate for the monumental effort you put into that beast. Not everyone has the tuning ability you do. If I'm not mistaken you have been on the forefront of tackling the 100 foot grouping that TCF has set forth for a long while now. In fact, I believe your groupings have been the tightest 100 foot groupings i've seen. (with exception to TCF's indoor groupings... which seem... well better than some real steel.... 150 foot 1" groupings???)

As such, it may be appropriate to do a grouping with a truly stock arm without shims vs the other arms I suspect we would find the groupings may be a bit different. SVT Cobra, I feel you know better than anyone what a stock rifle will do, especially in 100 foot groupings. I'm sure you could hazard a guess as to what that value is.

The average user would benefit in knowing how a truly stock hopup arm would perform against the standard and SCS arms. Also, how much easier it is to install and tune the Standard/SCS arms for consistent performance. I feel this is pertinent information for everyone.

25

Sniper's Perch / Re: nickswimsfast's new hopup arms

« on: October 16, 2009, 04:57:49 PM »

SVT Cobra, was the TM prong arm, the one from an upgrade TM hopup unit? I imagine there is a marked difference between that and a JG Bar-10 stock arm.

Trasher, I've found his results surprising as it conflicts with some of my personal performance tests. I admit it would be possible i have biased vision for obvious reason. It seems I will need to find some time to do some quality video tests to confirm/conflict with his results. Also, there is the numerous anecdotal accounts from members on the forum showing a marked improvement. So I would argue that the case shouldn't be closed