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AEG Discussion / Re: Best 416?
« on: May 03, 2013, 09:55:21 PM »
You can also just dump the G&G internals into the VFC if it comes to it. At least the VFC 416 is 100% version 2 internals so they are interchangeable.
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2
AEG Discussion II / Re: Can a stock A&K SR25 take a M140 spring?
« on: May 02, 2013, 08:42:12 PM »
It puts it somewhere between a M130 and M140 roughly. It could be a strong M130 or it could be a M140 with a bit of an air leak somewhere. Since it's fresh out of the box it could mean either.
One of the best things you can do to a AEG after buying it is simply to tear it down, reshim/relube the gearbox, and check all of the rifle for a consistent compression, especially in a DMR type rifle like the SR25.
FPS is dependent on where you play and the field restrictions. For my entire state 410FPS+ is semi-auto only and 50ft minimum engagement distance. With that sort of restriction I can run a M140 or M150 and it won't change my engagement rules. Contrary to most people's beliefs FPS does not equal accuracy or range. It sounds odd but, FPS plays very little in airsoft BB range. Most of the time this is a product of a good hopup, bucking, and barrel. FPS does give you power to punch through brush (grass, tree leaves, etc.) as well as allows you to run heavier BB's.
My first instinct is to ALWAYS upgrade the barrel and bucking first. A good 6.03mm 509mm tightbore and quality bucking will do amazing things for the rifle. Also using a heavier BB is a must at 437FPS or anything higher, I would start considering using .30g or heavier. There is a fine line though, the heavier a BB the more FPS is required to propel it, so there will be a point where you will have to consider bumping up the FPS.
I would say an M150 is a good plan if you plan on using .36-.4g BB's but the heavier BB's get more expensive.
One of the best things you can do to a AEG after buying it is simply to tear it down, reshim/relube the gearbox, and check all of the rifle for a consistent compression, especially in a DMR type rifle like the SR25.
FPS is dependent on where you play and the field restrictions. For my entire state 410FPS+ is semi-auto only and 50ft minimum engagement distance. With that sort of restriction I can run a M140 or M150 and it won't change my engagement rules. Contrary to most people's beliefs FPS does not equal accuracy or range. It sounds odd but, FPS plays very little in airsoft BB range. Most of the time this is a product of a good hopup, bucking, and barrel. FPS does give you power to punch through brush (grass, tree leaves, etc.) as well as allows you to run heavier BB's.
My first instinct is to ALWAYS upgrade the barrel and bucking first. A good 6.03mm 509mm tightbore and quality bucking will do amazing things for the rifle. Also using a heavier BB is a must at 437FPS or anything higher, I would start considering using .30g or heavier. There is a fine line though, the heavier a BB the more FPS is required to propel it, so there will be a point where you will have to consider bumping up the FPS.
I would say an M150 is a good plan if you plan on using .36-.4g BB's but the heavier BB's get more expensive.
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AEG Discussion II / Re: Can a stock A&K SR25 take a M140 spring?
« on: May 02, 2013, 01:34:08 AM »
The A&K SR25 uses a "version 2.5" gearbox (also known as an elongated version 2 gearbox).
I had an A&K a few years back just as China started shoving high torque motors in rifles and heavier springs. Out of the factory mine shot somewhere around 450FPS, metal spring guide, the whole bit. After a bit of tinkering I had it firing 473FPS @ 16RPS full auto, not that you should be doing that, but it gives an idea of the strength of the shell. Suffice to say the shell can easily withstand a M140 spring. Odds are though it might already have one in it stock, have you chrono'd it? I would feel comfortable putting in a M170 and still not be worried about the stress on the shell, though it's really not worth going that heavy.
I had an A&K a few years back just as China started shoving high torque motors in rifles and heavier springs. Out of the factory mine shot somewhere around 450FPS, metal spring guide, the whole bit. After a bit of tinkering I had it firing 473FPS @ 16RPS full auto, not that you should be doing that, but it gives an idea of the strength of the shell. Suffice to say the shell can easily withstand a M140 spring. Odds are though it might already have one in it stock, have you chrono'd it? I would feel comfortable putting in a M170 and still not be worried about the stress on the shell, though it's really not worth going that heavy.
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AEG Discussion / Re: Best 416?
« on: May 02, 2013, 01:27:17 AM »
Not gonna lie to you....no such AEG exists. Any company can offer "self-shimming gears" or "lipo-ready internals" or "pre-shimmed" but in the end they're from China and the quality control just doesn't exist.
That being said, both rifles have some good and bad about them.
Like you've seen from your friend's G&G they have some good internals, most will last you a very long time. Do whatever possible to avoid the "pneumatic blow-back" models as much as possible. Mostly because it does not add recoil and not really any cool factor beyond a flapping piece of thin sheet metal. What it does add is another $$$ and a more complicated part that can break. The internals themselves though should serve easily a couple years without being checked or replaced. I would still HIGHLY recommend it be serviced properly and given a good shim job, but it will run for a good while out-of-the-box. The downside is G&G externals aren't quite as nice looking as VFC.
Now the VFC. Hands down VFC makes some of the nicest externals on the market, the 416/417 is realistic in virtually every way possible. Unfortunately....that means some parts become VFC exclusive. The 417 in particular has a thinner receiver to closer replicate the width of a real 417. This means the mags are unique and only VFC HK417 mags will work (you cannot buy any other brand but VFC sorry), and the internals are different from standard 416/M4/M16 rifles. On that note....VFC internals are sub-par to say the least. The "self-shimming" gears are a joke and basically should be re-shimmed properly if you want to see any life out of them. The piston/tappet plate/selector plate (on certain models) are made from a extremely cheap "polycarb" and is prone to breaking, with most showing signs of fatigue straight from the factory (factory over tightened piston heads). I wouldn't recommend VFC unless you're comfortable working on your AEG and ready to dump money into the internals to bring it up to the quality of the externals.
And yes, for the record I own 2 VFC's and the first is virtually gutted with aftermarket parts, the second I am testing VFC internals...so far it's got a new tightbore and bucking as the stock was junk.
As far as HK416/417's there aren't too many choices. You're limited to Lancer Tactical (aka AGM/Quality Power), DBOY, JG, G&G, and Umarex (aka VFC). Out of all of those the G&G is the most internal durable.
I would say if you're wanting a durable rifle and aren't worried about looks I'd rate G&G -> JG -> AGM -> VFC
If you're out there for a nice looking rifle and plan on gutting it I'd rate VFC -> AGM -> G&G -> JG
That being said, both rifles have some good and bad about them.
Like you've seen from your friend's G&G they have some good internals, most will last you a very long time. Do whatever possible to avoid the "pneumatic blow-back" models as much as possible. Mostly because it does not add recoil and not really any cool factor beyond a flapping piece of thin sheet metal. What it does add is another $$$ and a more complicated part that can break. The internals themselves though should serve easily a couple years without being checked or replaced. I would still HIGHLY recommend it be serviced properly and given a good shim job, but it will run for a good while out-of-the-box. The downside is G&G externals aren't quite as nice looking as VFC.
Now the VFC. Hands down VFC makes some of the nicest externals on the market, the 416/417 is realistic in virtually every way possible. Unfortunately....that means some parts become VFC exclusive. The 417 in particular has a thinner receiver to closer replicate the width of a real 417. This means the mags are unique and only VFC HK417 mags will work (you cannot buy any other brand but VFC sorry), and the internals are different from standard 416/M4/M16 rifles. On that note....VFC internals are sub-par to say the least. The "self-shimming" gears are a joke and basically should be re-shimmed properly if you want to see any life out of them. The piston/tappet plate/selector plate (on certain models) are made from a extremely cheap "polycarb" and is prone to breaking, with most showing signs of fatigue straight from the factory (factory over tightened piston heads). I wouldn't recommend VFC unless you're comfortable working on your AEG and ready to dump money into the internals to bring it up to the quality of the externals.
And yes, for the record I own 2 VFC's and the first is virtually gutted with aftermarket parts, the second I am testing VFC internals...so far it's got a new tightbore and bucking as the stock was junk.
As far as HK416/417's there aren't too many choices. You're limited to Lancer Tactical (aka AGM/Quality Power), DBOY, JG, G&G, and Umarex (aka VFC). Out of all of those the G&G is the most internal durable.
I would say if you're wanting a durable rifle and aren't worried about looks I'd rate G&G -> JG -> AGM -> VFC
If you're out there for a nice looking rifle and plan on gutting it I'd rate VFC -> AGM -> G&G -> JG
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AEG Discussion / Re: CA SL8 DMR Build
« on: April 16, 2013, 10:43:48 PM »
Honestly, it's fine. I *might* be more concerned if it was a version 2 gearbox but since the SL8 runs a version 3 gearbox you'll be fine. Heck I have a SystemA aluminum piston in mine (it was built before good polycarb/metal teeth pistons existed).
If you're interested http://airsoft-lab.proboards.com/thread/17/project-classic-army-sl8-ca8 Mine shot 240ft @ 455FPS
If you're interested http://airsoft-lab.proboards.com/thread/17/project-classic-army-sl8-ca8 Mine shot 240ft @ 455FPS
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AEG Discussion / Re: CA SL8 DMR Build
« on: April 15, 2013, 10:21:08 AM »
Yup, in theory the M170/SP170 should shoot roughly 550FPS +/- 5-10 depending on parts and seal etc.
Personally I wouldn't bother with the extra FPS, it doesn't gain much range, won't affect accuracy, and overall just is out to cause more pain, that and it puts additional stress on the internals. Especially with the R-HOP you're already looking at high accuracy and range even with heavy weight BB's that wouldn't normally fly.
Personally I wouldn't bother with the extra FPS, it doesn't gain much range, won't affect accuracy, and overall just is out to cause more pain, that and it puts additional stress on the internals. Especially with the R-HOP you're already looking at high accuracy and range even with heavy weight BB's that wouldn't normally fly.
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AEG Discussion / Re: CA SL8 DMR Build
« on: April 12, 2013, 08:54:44 PM »
Like I said, if the CORE is like any other M160 then it's putting out close to expected FPS. IN THEORY you should be getting 520FPS~ from a M160 (SP160 is an equivalent) + 10FPS from the bearing spring guide and piston head so in total 530FPS~ roughly. However, +/- the 520 you're getting is virtually perfect.
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AEG Discussion / Re: CA SL8 DMR Build
« on: April 12, 2013, 02:56:54 PM »
If the CORE is like most other brand M160's then no, 520FPS is about where it should be +/- 5-10 depending on air seal and other parts. If you have a bearing spring guide and/or bearing piston head you will add +5FPS per bearing.
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Complaint Department / Re: Mark Sman - Fraud
« on: April 03, 2013, 07:27:40 PM »
Well he does now!
http://www.airsoftretreat.com/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=11615&title=wts-sr25-polar-star&cat=2
http://www.airsoftforum.com/board/SR25-Polar-Star-part-out-t260477.html
I would love to hear the logic behind scammer's way of thinking.
http://www.airsoftretreat.com/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=11615&title=wts-sr25-polar-star&cat=2
http://www.airsoftforum.com/board/SR25-Polar-Star-part-out-t260477.html
I would love to hear the logic behind scammer's way of thinking.
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General Airsoft Discussion / Re: VFC 417 vs KWA SR10
« on: March 25, 2013, 10:01:55 PM »
As many VFC guns as I have to work on over a year I would never recommend them unless you are willing to put extra money into its maintenance. I own two of them (probably not one of my better ideas) but then again I've also had to rebuild them both (internally) and now they're dependable as any of my field rifles. For the price ($400+) having to rebuild a gearbox before its even fieldable is insane.
I can't hate on VFC entirely though, they have some of the nicest looking replicas out there.
I would say if you have the money to pay for a VFC and want to prepare to rebuild a lot of it, it's worth it. I would not recommend the HK417 in particular because it can't easily be repaired. If that shell breaks it's almost impossible to get a replacement.
At the same time I can't readily recommend KWA since they have their own issues as I stated earlier.
I guess if I had to chose between those exact 2 I would pick the KWA only because I know the internals are standard enough I could repair it or get it repaired. But I would look into other brands or at least different guns if possible. The VFC HK416 isn't bad, you'll get top notch externals, and at least stand a chance of repairing it (full standard version 2 internals).
I can't hate on VFC entirely though, they have some of the nicest looking replicas out there.
I would say if you have the money to pay for a VFC and want to prepare to rebuild a lot of it, it's worth it. I would not recommend the HK417 in particular because it can't easily be repaired. If that shell breaks it's almost impossible to get a replacement.
At the same time I can't readily recommend KWA since they have their own issues as I stated earlier.
I guess if I had to chose between those exact 2 I would pick the KWA only because I know the internals are standard enough I could repair it or get it repaired. But I would look into other brands or at least different guns if possible. The VFC HK416 isn't bad, you'll get top notch externals, and at least stand a chance of repairing it (full standard version 2 internals).
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General Airsoft Discussion / Re: VFC 417 vs KWA SR10
« on: March 24, 2013, 10:45:00 PM »
The VFC HK417 is probably one of their most proprietary rifles yet. I though the SCAR series had it bad when they used a standard version 2 gearbox and adapted it to work for 7.62. The HK417 is a whole new level of proprietary.
To start with the body was designed closer to RS specs, it is actually thinner (width) than any standard M4/M16/SR25 AEG out today in order to replicate the RS better. This of course means the gearbox needs to be thinner as well. Like the VFC SCAR-H they decided against the stronger SR25 (v. 2.5 gearbox) and went with a modified v2 (called it the v. 2.2) which has zero reinforcements unlike any modern v2 shell and can only be found in the HK417 meaning there are no other rifles that use this new 2.2 shell (particularly bad when the shell breaks). Adding to that the magazines are 100% proprietary, unlike the SCAR-H which could be adapted to work with SR25 magazines the HK417 uses unique mags and cannot accept SR25 mags.
VFC internal quality is so-so at best. I've worked on a number of them, and the motors are certainly hit and miss, I've had one die in 400rds (no abuse, just a 9.6v 1500mAh NIMH) and another in 1000rds (again no abuse this time on a 8.4v 1400mAh). The self shimming gears are a complete joke and need to be shimmed properly (but this is true of any AEG). The polycarb parts are fairly weak, the pistons particularly shatter quite easily (especially given the rifle has a $500 price tag).
I will say this, I have never had trouble getting my VFC AEG's to feed. In fact of all the mags I've ever owned, the VFC mags have had the strongest springs of any brand, this does cause a lot of double feeding (at first) but compressing the springs for a day or two and they act like any other brand.
On the flip side though KWA has their own little quirks and proprietary bits as well.
Externally they're fairly standard, with the exception that the internal dimensions of the main body are different to accommodate the reinforced 2GX gearbox shell.
Internally, the shell has some unique dimensions to parts like the trigger. The 9mm bearings have a tendency to blow out of their tracks and play pinball inside a spinning gearbox, and the motors are noted to have some high failure rates lately.
One thing both companies have going for them is their hopups...the VFC gets good range and accuracy from the stock tightbore and standard type bucking. The KWA also gets good range and accuracy, mostly from the 2GX bucking.
To start with the body was designed closer to RS specs, it is actually thinner (width) than any standard M4/M16/SR25 AEG out today in order to replicate the RS better. This of course means the gearbox needs to be thinner as well. Like the VFC SCAR-H they decided against the stronger SR25 (v. 2.5 gearbox) and went with a modified v2 (called it the v. 2.2) which has zero reinforcements unlike any modern v2 shell and can only be found in the HK417 meaning there are no other rifles that use this new 2.2 shell (particularly bad when the shell breaks). Adding to that the magazines are 100% proprietary, unlike the SCAR-H which could be adapted to work with SR25 magazines the HK417 uses unique mags and cannot accept SR25 mags.
VFC internal quality is so-so at best. I've worked on a number of them, and the motors are certainly hit and miss, I've had one die in 400rds (no abuse, just a 9.6v 1500mAh NIMH) and another in 1000rds (again no abuse this time on a 8.4v 1400mAh). The self shimming gears are a complete joke and need to be shimmed properly (but this is true of any AEG). The polycarb parts are fairly weak, the pistons particularly shatter quite easily (especially given the rifle has a $500 price tag).
I will say this, I have never had trouble getting my VFC AEG's to feed. In fact of all the mags I've ever owned, the VFC mags have had the strongest springs of any brand, this does cause a lot of double feeding (at first) but compressing the springs for a day or two and they act like any other brand.
On the flip side though KWA has their own little quirks and proprietary bits as well.
Externally they're fairly standard, with the exception that the internal dimensions of the main body are different to accommodate the reinforced 2GX gearbox shell.
Internally, the shell has some unique dimensions to parts like the trigger. The 9mm bearings have a tendency to blow out of their tracks and play pinball inside a spinning gearbox, and the motors are noted to have some high failure rates lately.
One thing both companies have going for them is their hopups...the VFC gets good range and accuracy from the stock tightbore and standard type bucking. The KWA also gets good range and accuracy, mostly from the 2GX bucking.
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AEG Discussion / Re: STAR M16 questions.
« on: March 20, 2013, 04:28:20 PM »
- STAR Original Easy Power Step Up Metal Gear Box
That sounds like a fancy name for the quick change spring guide system STAR/ARES is known for. I've seen the "Step Up" advertizing in a few other models.
That sounds like a fancy name for the quick change spring guide system STAR/ARES is known for. I've seen the "Step Up" advertizing in a few other models.
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Gas Discussion / Re: WE M&P Worth a shot?
« on: March 14, 2013, 10:02:45 PM »
If there's one consistent thing about WE is their leaky mags unfortunately. Whatever compound WE uses it's very prone to drying out. I've owned multiple WE products and the rifle/pistol has been decent, but the mags were beyond hope, even bathing them for a week in silicone oil never cured them.
The leaking isn't confined to just their M9 series. Pretty much every mag WE makes will develop leaks at some point. I've owned 5 different WE series and each of them irreparably leaked at some point.
Looking overseas it'll be a crap shoot to find mags in stock, ehobbyasia is currently out, airsoftglobal has them, etc. One thing to keep in mind is that WE is the only one to make the M&P (so far) so you will be fighting to find them and you can't get them from any other source.
WE quality in general is pretty cheap, expect metal parts to wear out or break somewhat quickly in comparison to some brands. They use cheap steel/aluminum alloys to construct key parts (blowback housings, mag catches, etc.) so things may quickly turn into a headache. Don't expect TM spec parts to fit without modification as WE never seems to be able to get the dimensions quite right (not that they are available for the M&P yet).
I'm not bashing WE too much, honestly if they could just fix their pitiful rubber quality they would be more than worth buying, using, and even repairing (a lot).
The leaking isn't confined to just their M9 series. Pretty much every mag WE makes will develop leaks at some point. I've owned 5 different WE series and each of them irreparably leaked at some point.
Looking overseas it'll be a crap shoot to find mags in stock, ehobbyasia is currently out, airsoftglobal has them, etc. One thing to keep in mind is that WE is the only one to make the M&P (so far) so you will be fighting to find them and you can't get them from any other source.
WE quality in general is pretty cheap, expect metal parts to wear out or break somewhat quickly in comparison to some brands. They use cheap steel/aluminum alloys to construct key parts (blowback housings, mag catches, etc.) so things may quickly turn into a headache. Don't expect TM spec parts to fit without modification as WE never seems to be able to get the dimensions quite right (not that they are available for the M&P yet).
I'm not bashing WE too much, honestly if they could just fix their pitiful rubber quality they would be more than worth buying, using, and even repairing (a lot).
14
Problem Solving / Re: Possible compression leak/ shooting problems with Echo 1 sof 3
« on: March 07, 2013, 06:01:08 PM »
I'm leaning against the tappet plate since the rifle sounds like it was feeding ok, but anything is possible, like I said, you'll have to open the gearbox for this one unfortunately. Since there's no major play I kinda doubt the E1 tech.
The Tappet plate itself moves the air nozzle back and forth allowing new BB's to be chambered and it also pushes them into the hopup with the help of the air nozzle. It is pulled back by the sector gear (the gear that also engages the piston) as the gearbox cycles.
The shape of the air nozzle is somewhat of a theory based thing. You will see some that are triangle shaped, X shaped, circular, etc. and the idea behind it is; as the air is forced out of the nozzle an "ideal" expansion is created, pushing the BB out of the hopup/barrel in an efficient and even manner...no idea if it's actually effective but hey.
I'm betting that washer is just the barrel spacer I was referring to, I don't think I've seen a silver one, but I have seen plenty of brass and black colored.
The Tappet plate itself moves the air nozzle back and forth allowing new BB's to be chambered and it also pushes them into the hopup with the help of the air nozzle. It is pulled back by the sector gear (the gear that also engages the piston) as the gearbox cycles.
The shape of the air nozzle is somewhat of a theory based thing. You will see some that are triangle shaped, X shaped, circular, etc. and the idea behind it is; as the air is forced out of the nozzle an "ideal" expansion is created, pushing the BB out of the hopup/barrel in an efficient and even manner...no idea if it's actually effective but hey.
I'm betting that washer is just the barrel spacer I was referring to, I don't think I've seen a silver one, but I have seen plenty of brass and black colored.
15
Problem Solving / Re: Madbull Hop Up bucking DROPPING BY 50 FPS+!
« on: March 06, 2013, 06:13:39 PM »
First and foremost, you did make sure the bucking was well sealed to the barrel so it had no chance of leaking air around the bucking and barrel?
I'm probably going to get blasted for this...
But oh well, the last time I used a Madbull bucking was about 2 years ago. I bought 2 red and 2 blue, they were the ***** pieces of ***** I have ever used in 6 years. No matter what air seal techniques I used they never gave a consistent seal (and I generally lost about 75FPS), to top it off my effective target range went from 200ft to at most 50ft. Just comparing them to other brands Madbull buckings are made of a very slippery "rubber" which is theoretically letting the BB go before pressure can build up behind it properly. Because of the different density the hop up adjustment changes drastically, I do remember having to turn the hopup at least 80% of the way on to get a hint of hop, so it's also a very stiff rubber.
My suggestion is just grab a new bucking (sometimes ya just have to cut losses)...
I'm probably going to get blasted for this...
But oh well, the last time I used a Madbull bucking was about 2 years ago. I bought 2 red and 2 blue, they were the ***** pieces of ***** I have ever used in 6 years. No matter what air seal techniques I used they never gave a consistent seal (and I generally lost about 75FPS), to top it off my effective target range went from 200ft to at most 50ft. Just comparing them to other brands Madbull buckings are made of a very slippery "rubber" which is theoretically letting the BB go before pressure can build up behind it properly. Because of the different density the hop up adjustment changes drastically, I do remember having to turn the hopup at least 80% of the way on to get a hint of hop, so it's also a very stiff rubber.
My suggestion is just grab a new bucking (sometimes ya just have to cut losses)...
16
Problem Solving / Re: Possible compression leak/ shooting problems with Echo 1 sof 3
« on: March 06, 2013, 06:00:14 PM »
It's certainly a compression issue, and I hate to say it but you might have compounded the issue.
The "teeny washer" you're referring to: was it made of brass and about the diameter of the inner barrel? If so that's just a stabilizing ring, it has no effect on the actual air seal and simply takes some of the play out of the barrel when it's in the hop up. While you have the hop up unit out though its worth checking over the housing to make sure none of the parts are cracked or broken. I've seen a few AEG's through my shop with hop up units severed in half from various causes.
Filing the air nozzle probably wasn't the best idea, but you'll have to get the rifle firing again to see if it has any adverse effects on the function.
From the sound of it, it sounds like either the piston is cracked or the piston head is cracked/come off the piston. The first can happen regardless, most china pistons these days aren't bad but things do happen, a cracked piston could lead to inconsistent compression leading to the described range. The second, I haven't heard of a stock AEG doing it in a while, but again things can happen. If the piston head cracked or broke apart you will lose compression and again, leads to what's described, if the piston head simply came unscrewed and is flopping around loose as the rifle cycles it would also lead to the same results.
It's also possible the cylinder head has come apart. Usually clones use a polycarb cylinder head with a brass neck that the air nozzle rides on, these frequently come lose.
When you were filing the air nozzle was there any noticeable play in the nozzle? As in, extreme movement in any direction (forward/back, or side to side).
Since Echo 1 is a rebrand company, I believe the SA58 (SOF) series is a rebranded AGM (Quality Power) model. AGM has always been a bit low in quality control so really anything is possible. I would check the gearbox first as the symptoms make it clear something has gone amiss inside.
The "teeny washer" you're referring to: was it made of brass and about the diameter of the inner barrel? If so that's just a stabilizing ring, it has no effect on the actual air seal and simply takes some of the play out of the barrel when it's in the hop up. While you have the hop up unit out though its worth checking over the housing to make sure none of the parts are cracked or broken. I've seen a few AEG's through my shop with hop up units severed in half from various causes.
Filing the air nozzle probably wasn't the best idea, but you'll have to get the rifle firing again to see if it has any adverse effects on the function.
From the sound of it, it sounds like either the piston is cracked or the piston head is cracked/come off the piston. The first can happen regardless, most china pistons these days aren't bad but things do happen, a cracked piston could lead to inconsistent compression leading to the described range. The second, I haven't heard of a stock AEG doing it in a while, but again things can happen. If the piston head cracked or broke apart you will lose compression and again, leads to what's described, if the piston head simply came unscrewed and is flopping around loose as the rifle cycles it would also lead to the same results.
It's also possible the cylinder head has come apart. Usually clones use a polycarb cylinder head with a brass neck that the air nozzle rides on, these frequently come lose.
When you were filing the air nozzle was there any noticeable play in the nozzle? As in, extreme movement in any direction (forward/back, or side to side).
Since Echo 1 is a rebrand company, I believe the SA58 (SOF) series is a rebranded AGM (Quality Power) model. AGM has always been a bit low in quality control so really anything is possible. I would check the gearbox first as the symptoms make it clear something has gone amiss inside.
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AEG Discussion / Re: input on the VFC pdw
« on: February 22, 2013, 11:25:59 PM »
To say that VFC internals are iffy...well I'll just leave that to the picture to say it all. The picture is from a VFC SCAR-H but the internals are pretty much the same as the PDW.
The piston, tappet plate are clear ABS plastic, if it is polycarb (which is questionable given the failure rate on them) it's some of the weakest polycarb on the market. Also the piston head is aluminum but there is no bearing, just a cheap plastic spacer. It could have changed in the 2 years since that gearbox was made...I will confirm that in a week when I get my 2012 made SCAR-H
18
Gun Modifications/Parts/Accessories / Re: VFC SCAR Range and Duriblity upgrade
« on: February 10, 2013, 03:29:33 AM »
The new VFC metal bushings are hard to tell as they're blued "steel" (very dark bluing) I'd give one a scratch to make sure they are metal....last thing you want is your gears melting the bushings and the axles jamming/snapping off.
Gears wise, at 400FPS you have plenty of options. Like I said even stock JG (XYT) gears from the newer 2011 guns are fairly well made. Depending on your budget, I'd go with anything from G&G, "Matrix", SHS (I'm told the version 2 have issues with the bevel gear but I've only used version 1 and had no issues), these days most of the aftermarket china gears are well made.
Oh and buckings, between the two I like SystemA a bit better. Though lately I've been using KWA 2GX buckings and they are extremely accurate. But getting the most out of any barrel setup tends to require time, tuning, and a lot of different tests with various brand buckings. On my personal VFC SCAR I tried a bunch of buckings (everything from JG to KWA) and the only one that worked well was the stock VFC.
Gears wise, at 400FPS you have plenty of options. Like I said even stock JG (XYT) gears from the newer 2011 guns are fairly well made. Depending on your budget, I'd go with anything from G&G, "Matrix", SHS (I'm told the version 2 have issues with the bevel gear but I've only used version 1 and had no issues), these days most of the aftermarket china gears are well made.
Oh and buckings, between the two I like SystemA a bit better. Though lately I've been using KWA 2GX buckings and they are extremely accurate. But getting the most out of any barrel setup tends to require time, tuning, and a lot of different tests with various brand buckings. On my personal VFC SCAR I tried a bunch of buckings (everything from JG to KWA) and the only one that worked well was the stock VFC.
19
Gun Modifications/Parts/Accessories / Re: VFC SCAR Range and Duriblity upgrade
« on: February 09, 2013, 02:16:11 PM »
I really would not recommend such a long barrel as it somewhat makes the rifle unwieldy and doesn't give a performance boost. At most I'd go with a 509mm possibly even a 455mm depending on who you talk to can net the most effective range and accuracy (personally I've had excellent results with both).
I would highly recommend new gears as VFC's "self shimming" gears weren't all that great. Even a used set of JG gears from a 2011+ gun would be a step up to be honest. If that puts you over budget though, at least shim the gears properly with actual shims instead of relying on the sloppy springs.
I have not worked on any of the recent (2012-2013) VFC SCAR's but the first and second run VFC SCAR's still had plastic bushings in them (even though the M4's had metal bushings). Which melt in around 4000-5000 rounds, so definitely replace those if you have one with plastic bushings.
I would highly recommend new gears as VFC's "self shimming" gears weren't all that great. Even a used set of JG gears from a 2011+ gun would be a step up to be honest. If that puts you over budget though, at least shim the gears properly with actual shims instead of relying on the sloppy springs.
I have not worked on any of the recent (2012-2013) VFC SCAR's but the first and second run VFC SCAR's still had plastic bushings in them (even though the M4's had metal bushings). Which melt in around 4000-5000 rounds, so definitely replace those if you have one with plastic bushings.
20
Complaint Department / Re: Mark Sman - Fraud
« on: February 05, 2013, 04:05:22 PM »
Given it's changed a couple times I highly doubt it.
He's at it again...
http://www.airsoftretreat.com/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=11525&title=wts-tokyo-marui-1911-base-colt-delta-elite&cat=2
He's at it again...
http://www.airsoftretreat.com/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=11525&title=wts-tokyo-marui-1911-base-colt-delta-elite&cat=2
21
Complaint Department / Re: Mark Sman - Fraud
« on: January 07, 2013, 12:16:28 PM »
http://www.airsoftretreat.com/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=11500&title=wts-tokyo-marui-sopmod-recoil-shock-series-2c-great-condition-2c-stock&cat=2
1 (201) 256-0677
Marksman027@gmail.com
And here I ALMOST thought he'd given up. A record 19 days without trying to scam!
1 (201) 256-0677
Marksman027@gmail.com
And here I ALMOST thought he'd given up. A record 19 days without trying to scam!
23
Complaint Department / Re: Mark Sman - Fraud
« on: December 17, 2012, 10:42:58 PM »
New tactic, now he doesn't post a picture at all!
http://www.airsoftretreat.com/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=11480&title=wts-g-26amp-3bp-sr-25-urx&cat=2
http://www.airsoftretreat.com/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=11480&title=wts-g-26amp-3bp-sr-25-urx&cat=2
24
Complaint Department / Re: Mark Sman - Fraud
« on: December 14, 2012, 12:28:54 AM »
Not exactly the most original of scammers is he.
http://www.airsoftretreat.com/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=11478&title=wts-a-26amp-3bk-masada-tan&cat=2
BTW if these are being read by "Mark" I am offended you haven't tried to use my rifles in your scams (j/k)
http://www.airsoftretreat.com/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=11478&title=wts-a-26amp-3bk-masada-tan&cat=2
BTW if these are being read by "Mark" I am offended you haven't tried to use my rifles in your scams (j/k)