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51

Sniper's Perch / Re: KJ M700P barrel questions

« on: June 23, 2008, 06:27:14 PM »

I have it and have compared the KJW barrel to a VSR and AEG inner barrel.

The inner barrel is 627mm long.
A standard AEG inner barrel will not fit with out modification to the bucking.
A VSR-10 inner barrel WILL fit directly.
Any VSR-10 or a TM G26/m1911/hi-cappa bucking WILL fit directly.

The barrel needs to have a groove just past the hop-up cut out for the KJW/VSR/TM bucking to fit properly. If you look inside the very end of the bucking, there is a lip that fits into the groove to promote a better air seal. If you want to use and AEG inner barrel to save money, you can cut off the lip at the end of the bucking, then wrap teflon tape around that part of the bucking and the barrel to create a tighter fit inside the hop-up chamber for an improved air seal. You can also do this to an uncut bucking for better results. You can also use an AEG bucking, but you will have to trim the lenght to get it to fit inside the chamber. Also, an AEG bucking makes for a crappy air seal at both ends of the bucking compared to a VSR-10 style bucking, but it is a cheaper alternative.

You can cut down a 650mm long inner barrel and recrown it with a counter-sink(available at Lowe's or Home Depot), or use a drill and drill out the muzzle spacer. Use an 8.5mm or a R(only .0044" larger) drill bit. You will probably have to buy a set of drills to find a "R" size and you will have to special order a 8.5mm drill bit. If you drill it out, start from the large side, the existing hole will act as a guide to keep the drill bit straight. Shim tight with teflon or metal ducting tape.

52

Gun Modifications/Parts/Accessories / Re: 2 piece version 2 gearbox

« on: May 27, 2008, 03:49:06 PM »

I fit the 7mm versoin into a D-boys body with very little grinding/sanding. I originally had it in a Prime LR300 and it took a huge amount of work to get it right. Also, I had issues with most other brand pistons fitting too tight so I had to grind/sand out the rails and there was a clearance issue with the cap on the end that supports the spring guide. I also noticed that the hop-up was dimensioned a little different and some buckings(Prometheus and the supplied PGC) would be too tight or set too deep, causing jams and misfires. These issues were supposed to be addressed with the newer 8mm gearbox, but I haven't got mine yet, nor have I heard from anyone with firsthand experience.
Durability is top of the line, but I would say this is definately not for beginers.

53

Problem Solving / KJW Para light striking or blow-back issue*REPAIRED*

« on: May 11, 2008, 09:06:00 PM »

I am attempting to repair this gun for a teammate and it is giving me fits.
It is the full metal KJW Para version that is has an almost identical blowback system to the WA Magna found in the Infinity, and others, series. The only difference I have noticed is that the KJW doesn't have the spring loaded rocket valve, rather it has a spring that pushes and one that pulls against the valve between blow-back and firing. I do not have a good understanding of how this is supposed to work and I think it is the reason for my issues.
Basically when I got it it seemed to light strike with propane or 134a. In testing I closed the blowback valve to try to get it to fire, but not blowback. With that done, it shoots as hard as it should. I then blocked off the firing side and found that it still would not blowback.
I have tried changing tension on these 2 springs on the blow-back valve with zero improvement. I have also added and extra half lenght of hammer spring and tried a shortened recoil spring in varying combinations to try to narrow down the problem. I have tried a smaller o-ring inside the blowback chamber. The o-ring that came in it is dark blue and has a fair amount of resistance inside the chamber, the one I have tried has zero resistance inside the chamber. During this time it has alsways "light striked" and shot the bb about 5ft and only partially cocked the hammer upon blow-back, or it has shot hard and not blown back... never with consistent results.
I have since returned the gun to the original order of parts and now it shoots hard, but only blows back hard enough to cock the hammer at the first of 3 stages.

I have decided the issue is with the valve inside the blowback chamber, but I do not know what to do from here.
I would like to solve the problem rather than throw parts at it, but if that is the case I may try ordering a factory valve and spring for the WA Magna. I like the idea that a chambered bb holds the valve open for firing rather than a spring pulling against another spring to leave the valve "floating" open for firing.
I am looking for any experiences or input. Please let me know if you need more information to help diagnos the problem. Thanks ahead of time guys!

*UPDATED*

Special thanks to renegadecow from Arnie's for diagnosing the problem:
"Copied, but not quite. KJW ditched the system and incorporated the valve lock on the frame and not on the magazine. But that part may also contribute to light strikes. From what I've been through, I've had the following as possible causes of the problem at least on my own P14:

cause: valve surface (against valve lock) worn down
effect: valve lock slips and doesn't hold the valve open for prolonged gas release
solution: rotate valve to expose unworn area

cause: gummy/worn valve o-ring
effect: valve lock works, but since the o-ring has become more elastic, doesn't make a gap large enough for sufficient gas release.
solution: replace o-rings

cause: worn valve lock surface (against valve)
effect: like first one, slips and doesn't lock valve open
solution: replace (as if there are any. its a KJW-only part  ) or rebuild damaged area with a sleeve (thin sheet of metal).

I've actually had to perform all three fixes on mine along with replacing internal parts for durability, but overall its lasted me for 4 years now."

My solution:
"I was able to repair this very quickly, much quicker than I had expected.
The actual repair was done by using solder to build up the worn portion of the valve lock arm, then file down as needed. I used a 60watt soldering iron with a large, round tip to get the valve lock arm hot enough for the solder to bond. I am very sure that this is just a temporary fix since the solder is softer than the aluminum/pot metal it is bonded to, not to mention that it is rubbing against steel while under a load.
I also tried adding spring tension to the valve lock, but the arm on the valve lock was so far worn that it was barely making contact with the valve. This may still work on someone else's gun, or it may work as a quicky repair later when I might not have access to a soldering iron. To add spring tension I removed the valve lock from the frame and found a .112" tall set screw that was the same diameter as the spring to space up the spring and give a bit more tension to the valve lock. As it turns out this was too much tension for my application and it would hold the valve open too long making the gun attempt to full-auto, but basiaclly just bounce off the valve and dump all the gas and bbs. I removed the spacer and it works great."

54

Sniper's Perch / Re: solid steel barrel for bar 10

« on: May 08, 2008, 06:51:54 AM »

I am really looking forward to how this turns out. I think it will make a very noticeable difference, even if it is awkward to carry. A few years ago a guy on my team built a M2 .50 in 8mm and paid $600 for the inner barrel alone. He had it built to match the length and contour of the real guns barrel and it was a soid smooth bore. I never saw it shoot before it was stolen, but he still claims it was the most consistent airsoft gun he has ever owned, even over his highly tuned Tanaka. If the principles weren't there you wouldn't see bench shooters doing it, its not just to combat heat.
Just my 2 cents, I would stick with the threaded section idea. The machined shoulders will keep it square and true, you will have better access to the hop-up area, and you can also use set screws to afix the ho-up giving you 2 different ways to fine tune it's position. I think you should also cut a new reciever from steel to help support it.

55

Gun Modifications/Parts/Accessories / Re: SR-25 Long Nozzle

« on: March 27, 2008, 03:36:29 AM »

 The standard V2 SR-25 has a spacer between the gb and the hop-up for a tight fit, else wise the hop-up could back out toward the gb. I have never seen the spacer for sale. You could e-mail CA or contact Mike(owner) at www.thearmystore.com to try to order one for you through CA.

56

Sniper's Perch / Re: vsr 650mm barrel compatibility question

« on: March 23, 2008, 02:12:04 PM »

It should work. I have both and the only difference I can see is that the KJW barrel has a hop-up hole cut like an AEG and the VSR barrel is cut like a pistol. Assuming the groove around the barrel is in the same place and the forward end of the hop-up cut is the same distance, it should fit. I will look at them side by side again later for a definative answer.

Edit: The Laylax VSR barrel would be interchangeable with the KJW M700 barrel that I have. I am not sure if KJW made different hop-up styles for their rifles, so just to be clear my rifle has a split hop-up chamber that uses bucking that are almost identical to the Firefly VSR buckings I have. On a side note, the KJW barrel could also be used in an AEG.
Sorry, there will be no pics. My camera is dead and I am sure you can find pics in previous threads of each barrel to do a comparison.

To cover the extra barrel lenght, get a VSR mock silencer adapter and buy a supressor long enough to cover the barrel. You can measure the extra barrel with a standard measuring tape then multiply by 25.4 to convert to mm.

57

Sniper's Perch / Re: Where can i find the Smokeys VSR10 Stock?

« on: February 29, 2008, 07:05:32 PM »

www.airsoftglobal.com

58

Sniper's Perch / Re: 2Roy/King Arms VSR Hopup Conversion Kit Q's

« on: February 23, 2008, 12:03:15 AM »

No V hop, but you could modiy the hop-up pressure bar by cutting a notch in the center.

Not sure. I modded my Best Gun kit to work in a very similar way as this before this came out. I had my hands on one for awhile, but I was unimpressed with actual hop-up bar design. They should have mimicked the VSR hop-up pressure bar, then it would have had similar results. As is, a straight bar applies pressure across the top of the bb. With the Best Gun kit, a rubber rod applies pressure to the top center of the bb. Both are great starts at a good idea, the just need to make contact to the outside edges, above the center axis, of the bb like in the VSR. I would say it is better than the Best Gun kit in that you have the flexibility to try any of the 9+ different bucking available for the VSR, where the Best Gun kit has only one available bucking.

You would have to use a VSR 555mm barrel with the kit. The kit comes with a new muzzle cap to support the shorter barrel.

59

Sniper's Perch / Re: Evikes metallic aluminum bbs?

« on: February 18, 2008, 11:08:56 PM »

I used them in the past and they shot very well for me, They were very consistent in 3 different VSR type rifles, 4 different KJW Mk1s and 2 different Tanaka set-ups. I have doubts about there weight given that Evike guesses they are about .33g and other Ebay sellers I have seen list them at approx. .30g. I quit shooting them because I would get bogus chrono reading from them and I found that .29g SGMs are better for target practice and medium range precision shooting and Straight .36g bbs are better at long range windy shots. That said, I figured what is the point.
I do have a hard time believing they will penetrate more or make any difference on a human target as SIIS .33g bbs. The weight and velocity determins the energy and since neither fragment against a soft/fleshy target I cannot believe they will do any more or less damage. I do know that they had no affect at making dishonorable players want to call their hits.

60

Sniper's Perch / Re: KJW MK1 carbine 23" : how does it compare to other rifles?

« on: February 12, 2008, 12:22:37 AM »

Or just stupidity...

We used to play CQB with a "run what you brung" mentality. It wasn't too long before we had 4 Mk1 rifles, 2 Mk1 pistols, and 5 KWC Sigma 40f Co2 pistols. With power levels between 440-600fps, we all got banged up a bit. Mostly bloody knuckles, cracked finger nails and shallow scares. After the above incident and a shattered tooth, sorry no pics, I decided we need to grow up a bit. Now we mostly use gas pistols and AEGs on semi only... still no silly MED. However, we have adopted face protection to go with the goggles.
You will never have the pleasure of taking a gun from your opponent with an MED. Even if he is quick even enough to draw his pistol and gut shot you before you can turn the gun around to shoot him, it is still hilarious

61

Gun Modifications/Parts/Accessories / Re: wiring a battery in two places at once???

« on: February 11, 2008, 11:54:24 PM »

I have seen it done on an M16, both batterys were the same packs so it was wire parrallel( I think) and it doubled the mah supposedly. I have thought about trying this, but never made it any further... 2500 mah lasts me just fine.

62

Sniper's Perch / Re: KJW MK1 carbine 23" : how does it compare to other rifles?

« on: February 11, 2008, 11:47:38 PM »

I built the gun for Aceofspadesand it is unlike any other Mk1. A typical Mk1 has an inconsitent hop-up and the power drops about 40-60fps per shot. The 23" barrel is just a longer version of the crappy 6.08ish mm carbine inner barrel. Like has been said, it hits hard and is good for about 160' stock. With all that power .43 were the only thing I could get to stabilize, then I had to tune it w/ Tanaka parts and $50 worth of homemade inginuity to get it as consistent as it is. I often wish I hadn't sold it, but I had to to get the Tanaka I have now.
For $75 you got a grat deal on a light weight hard hitter you can use to pick-up the occasional long shot or to keep heads down while your team mates flank. Just sling it on your back and carry an AEG as your primary. It may not as accurate as some other guns, but every one is intimidated by them. Just be careful or you may end up cutting a bb out of your friends face...

63

Gas Discussion / Re: kwc c02 sigma mag valves

« on: February 10, 2008, 09:00:09 PM »

I use a large flt head screw driver that I ground to fit perfectly. I lso made one to remove the Co2 punture thing inside the Co2 mag.

64

Gas Discussion / Re: PDI's new 1 piece outer and inner, rifled palsonite barrel.

« on: January 10, 2008, 07:37:10 AM »

Looks like a more realistic outer barrel. Basically it fits very snuggly around the inner for extra support. Says you will get best reults w/ PDI 6.01mm inner barrel. The rifling is just on the end to simulate the real guns barrel. Basically it looks and feels more realistic due to it being made of steel. It also says you have to keep it oiled to prevent possible surface rust, like a real gun. Very cool outer barrel if you ask me.

65

AEG Discussion / Re: 33e reinforcement of tabs???

« on: January 08, 2008, 11:38:03 PM »

They have not, they just moved on to other/more popular guns.
I forgot to mention that I cut the heads off the bolts that fit into the receiver and that I put them in as far as possible and JB Welded them to the inside. Be careful not to JB Weld the hop-up chamber mount in place, in case you want to remove it later(for whatever reason). Also, make sure that when you set it up for curing that you mount the hop-up chamber and barrel so that oyu get proper alignment(as seen in the first pic). I left mine vertical to cure so that the weight of the outer barrel could not cause it to shift to one side. The first time I did this I got it crooked and it caused a horrible air seal leak, 260fps w/ .25g bbs and a M150 spring. When it broke off, I just slipped it back over the barrel and kept fighting only to realize I was getting massive penetration through heavy brush. With out the outer barrel pulling the inner barrel out of alignment, the air seal returned and power was way up... even if the consistency was crap.

I have also heard of a few guys that bought the aluminum railed foregrips and bolted them to the reciever with sheet metal screws to help support the outer barrel assembly.

66

AEG Discussion / Re: 33e reinforcement of tabs???

« on: January 08, 2008, 06:58:57 PM »

I filed the face of the reciever smooth, drilled 3 holes in each side, then JB Welded 3 #10 screws into each hole. I straight out, then the other 2 angled up for triangulated support. I let it cure for 1 week before shaping. The silver tape is to prevent JB Weld gettin on parts that I didin't want it on.

67

AEG Discussion / Re: 33e reinforcement of tabs???

« on: January 08, 2008, 06:00:43 PM »

Mine cracked after 3 months of normal uses. I then replaced it with a new body which broke when I slid into a creek and bounced it into a tree. I tried JB Welding the tabs back on with out any reinforcing and that one cracked during the first game back on the field.
Since reinforcing the gun it has been dropped, fallen off shelves and a friend slapped it against a tree while running from an ambush... still rock solid.
I have tried to sell it several times, but I always change my mind while putting the ad together. I think next I am going to convert it to a V3 gearbox.

68

Gas Discussion / Looking for Freedom Art long frame for Marui Hi-Capa 4.3, Type-D

« on: January 08, 2008, 01:08:12 AM »

I am trying to find this frame in stock somewhere: FA-ACC-HC43LRWCDBK Freedom Art Long Railed Frame With Comp Set for Marui Hi-Capa 4.3 ( Type D / Black )

I am willing to settle for any color, and possibly one of the other 7" barrel sets for a 4.3" slide. Basically they just have differently styled compensators. I found the Type E at wgcshop, but I prefer the cleaner look of the Type D.
I have already checked: wgcshop, uncompany, dentrinityshop, evike, airsoftglobal, gunnerairsoft, redwolfairsoft and airsoftextreme with no luck. That pretty much taps out my airsoft resources and google was a dead end for me. Anyone have any ideas or links? Any help is greatly appreciated! 

69

AEG Discussion / Re: 33e reinforcement of tabs???

« on: January 08, 2008, 12:54:09 AM »

Sorry, I guess they wiped their archives, here are the pics:

70

AEG Discussion / Re: 33e reinforcement of tabs???

« on: January 06, 2008, 10:27:14 AM »

http://www.airsoftretreat.com/forums/index.php?topic=16654.0

71

Sniper's Perch / Re: PDI 6.01 PSG-1 Barrel In Tanaka?

« on: January 04, 2008, 07:06:35 PM »

The biggest difference is the spacing from the chamber end of the barrel to the cut. An AEG barrel is about 1/8" and the Tanaka barrel is about 3/8". Also, the first 1/4"(ish) of the Tanaka barrel is a smaller diameter where the bb holder fits(before the bucking patch).

You could get the 650mm PDI and have someone with a lathe cut off the AEG bucking notch, then machine the step in diameter, then use the notching kit that came with the best gun bucking to get the notch correct.

Or, you could just place the bucking correctly on the AEG barrel and secure the hop-chamber with a set screw, or 2, to prevent movement. It might work, but you best bet is to have a machinist do the work for you.

72

Gas Discussion / Re: mk1 carbine, is the whole hopup system replacable with anything?

« on: January 01, 2008, 10:43:23 AM »

Unless I am mistaken, the MkII in airsoft is the exact same gun. There is a newer version that comes with a metal hop-up nozzle and a picatinny rail rather than the 3/8 rail for mounting optics, but the rest is the same design. I have seen the pistol version marketed as a MkII before, but it is still the same design.

73

Problem Solving / Re: How do you repair a seal on the TM high capa 5.1?

« on: December 31, 2007, 02:18:15 PM »

Sounds like the o-ring on the piston head slipped off. You best bet is to buy a piston lid cup from Tanio Koba(or other?) or you can get the Guarder replacement for a TM G26. Or consider an upgraded o-ring piston head from Firelfy or Prometheus/Laylax/NineBall. You could also try to find an o-ring that fits better, but I never had any luck with that. It fit mine correctly and sovled the jamming issue back before they made upgrades for them.
Just be sure you are capable of reassembling it after the upgrades. There are several disassembly/reassembly guides floating around ASR, you just have to Search them out.

74

Gas Discussion / Re: Tanaka magazines for M700 Police Model

« on: December 31, 2007, 02:12:16 PM »

Yes, but oyu may need to adjust the spacing between the trigger guard and the action to get a proper fit. Search in the Sniper's Perch for more info.

75

Gas Discussion / Re: mk1 carbine, is the whole hopup system replacable with anything?

« on: December 31, 2007, 02:07:52 PM »

The G&G hop-up patch works well, but only with good heavy ammo. You will have to use a razor to trim the lenght on one side to get it to fit in the chamber properly.Then even still, it is not as consistent as a long range airsoft rifle should be.
The hop-up design all together is a weak point with these guns. You could get a bit more consistancy by placing a sliver of rubber between the hop-up adjust ment screw and the hop-up patch so that it is not the metal screw directly against the patch.
The trouble with changing the hop up is that it has to be able to move. On these guns, the hop-up chamber is also the loading nozzle and it has to be sturdy to seal into the o-ring in the mag. With the right equipment, you could build a hop-up from scratch that is longer and wider. Make a pivoting arm that would adjust from a new hole in the upper reciever. The wider arm would allow you to make a V or H hop like the TM VSR-10, then modify the barrel, and possibly the bucking, to use what ever bucking you prefer. Lastly, there is the matter of milling a groove in the hop-up chamber support/guide and making room for the slightly longer chamber in the from of the receiver.
All in all, it can be done... but then you have the issue of the tiny gas chamber in the magazine that causes power to drop 15-30fps with each shot.
I have been down this road with many Mk1 rifles. Your best bet is to take the cash from the future parts and the potential time invested and put it toward a Tanaka M700 series rifle.
My fully tuned CO2 Mk1 was good for hitting a 5 gallon bucket at 220ft. 5 out of 10 shots, or 9 of 10 at 180ft. This was shooting .43s at 400+fps.
My Tanaka was 8-10 at 220ft w/ .36s at 430fps. All I had to do was clean it, load it, and adjust it after it arrived.

If you are still interested in pursuing this, PM me and I will see about some drawings and other ideas. This has resparked my interest a bit.
I see a KJW w/ a custom hop-up, a custom gas chamber extension, and a Choate stock...
Search around for some of the work I have posted here for the KJW Mk1.