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[Kronox]

Hi all are "new" on the forum .. "new" because it is the first time I open a topic even if I follow him for about 1 year: D! Anyway I wanted your very important help to create a new Vsr10 from scratch.
The law in Italy, where I live, with a higher power to prohibit asg 0.99J and I wanted to make a VSR suitable for this power.
Currently I have a FULL CUSTOM Vsr10 created by me:
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/26/0131o.jpg/
In particular, externally:
-Wood-Stock, Well Vsr10Tactical \ GOAL \ MB10.
-Royal Optical 3-9x40.
-PDI Light Outer Barrel.
-JG bar10 mock mock mock mock silencer with homemade upgrade.
-Dboys Bipod.
*Internally:
-PDI PalsoniteCylinder SET / VC .
-PDI APS120 Spring cut ( 0.99J with .20bbs).
-Tokyo Marui Precision Hopup unit.
-PDI New Trigger2 +Piston End 90°.
-PDI Bipod Base.
-PDI Inner-500mm 6.01 barrel.
-4x PDI Barrel Spacer inner Dia.8.55mm.
-Nine Ball Wide Use Air Seal Chamber for Marui VSR-10.
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/638/015vv.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/51/014rzq.jpg/
But now I'm selling now !
-----
I was thinking a setup like this:
-Normal stock with this custom:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X2BkFJvNR2w

-3-9x40 dot optical Mill, Guarder.
-Light-PDI Outer Barrel
-Tokyo-Marui mock mock mock mock silencer
*Internally:
-PDI-Cylinder PALSONITE SET / HD.
-PDI- 1Joule Spring
-Tokyo Marui Precision HopUp unit. (I would like to buy custom Noobie(TDC) but I can not contact him or to find someone who sell it )
-New Piston-PDI + End Trigger2 90 °.
-PDI Inner Barrel 430mm. / Tanio Koba 430mm for VSR10(someone say that Tanio kobe is a lot better than others barrel at 1joule potency but i really dont know if this is true because i didnt found Tests in internet!).
-PDI Barrel Spacer inner-2x Dia.8.55mm.
-Nine-Ball Rubber for Vsr10.
What do you think friends?? I would like clarification regarding the above "good or bad" relationship between cylinder PALSONITE PDI nad  PDI 430,6.01 & Barrel, and tips for the second piston (perhaps even the BaRiKaRu Compo Piston
HD would be fine .. but provides advantages than normal HD? )
If you have other suggestions for me I'm all ears: D! Thank you for reading my topic and I hope you put your vast experience to help a little:)
Finally, I'm sorry for my bad English Thanks, Lorenzo.  

[DHM78]

Hello, welcome to ASR! 

The gun in that video looks awesome!  It's great that you're willing to take on an ambitious project like that.  I wish I had the skills and tools to complete a mod like, maybe someday...

I can help you with the parts though.  Since you see, to know what you're gonna do with the externals, I'm just gonna skip right to the internals.  Your choice of parts looks for the most part very good, perhaps a bit overkill for just 1joule, but making your gun out of the best parts you can is always good if you can afford to.  The first thing I notice is the hop-up.  I have never used Noobie's TDC, so I can't give direct feedback on that, but I can tell you where to find them: http://shop.noobiesairsoft.com/VSR-10_c2.htm   Unfortunately they are out of stock.  The TM Precision is a great alternative though.  I would skip the Nineball bucking though; the stock bucking and the bucking that comes with the TM Precision chamber are both superior in my opinion, especially if you aren't using a highly powerful gun that would warrant such a hard bucking.  Now barrels.  PDI is always a great choice.  As for the Tiano Koba barrels, I have heard a plethora of different things about them, but I haven't really done any testing with them myself.  I have only used them in other people's guns.  I cannot say I have been impressed.  I have not seen anything that I could not achieve with the same power level and a standard barrel, but then I cannot speak for how well tuned these guns are, so it's not really saying much.  I have seen all sorts of claims on the internet, but never any serious testing and results to back it up.  So my answer would have to be that I simply do not know.  Personally, I would stick with a tried and true PDI barrel, but if you want to do some experimenting, that's entirely up to you.

I would like clarification regarding the above "good or bad" relationship between cylinder PALSONITE PDI nad  PDI 430,6.01 & Barrel, and tips for the second piston (perhaps even the BaRiKaRu Compo Piston
HD would be fine .. but provides advantages than normal HD? )

To be honest I really don't understand the question, but I'll try to help to whatever degree I can.  Is the first part regarding the cylinder-barrel volumes?  If so, the HD Palsonite cylinder set has enough cylinder volume to support a 430mm inner barrel.  No need for VC.  VC pistons aren't going to give you any advantages in this setup, and if anything will just add another possible source of inconsistency.  Stick to HD. 

Now the BaRiKaRu Compo piston has two things that set it apart from others.  The first is that it is a much more delicate piston, simply because it is made from a polymer (plastic) as opposed to the PDI, which is metal.  A 1joule gun probably isn't going to break it though.  The other aspect of the piston is that it is very lightweight.  What this essentially translates to is greater efficiency when pushing a light load, and thus higher bb velocity, with lightweight ammo.  With heavy ammo, a heavier piston is often more efficient.  It depends on the mass of the bbs you are using essentially.  If you are using a spring calibrated to 1joule though, this is done according to the standard piston I would assume, which means depending on the ammo mass you may end up shooting over your 1joule limit with the BaRiKaRu piston.  Honestly, in the end it is just about getting the 1joule output with your desired ammo weight.  Which piston you use is pretty much irrelevant as long as that requirement is met, as either will last on a 1joule spring. 

I'm not sure I answered your question, I hope I helped. 

[Kronox]

First of all .. Thanks a lot for letting me respond.
Secondly, thanks for the linked site Noobie even if you already know him ... is a long time that I look at him crying because I always read and only "out of stock" ... ahahahah regarding the Tanio Koba: I am in your same conditions .. I have read many posts on how it works on people who liked ... but NEVER serious tests to go on.
As for the piston I expressed myself badly:
My idea is: If the piston is made of polymers (such as BaRiKaRu) that I should let you use a spring LESS powerful because I would have more FPS than a piston as the normal POI that weighs about 10g more .. and this would result in a quieter or wrong? The fact is that the damn Italian law that limits the power to 1J of power means that there are often gigs under 20m away ... and as you know a sniper is too close to the enemy with a Bolt Action noisy is a dead sniper: D!
With regard to the cylinder barrel-volume report I read on this site and other Airsoft .. that working on the relationship of volume is very important to get the best shots ... so I wanted to know which is best barrel length(and internal diameter) for this purpose!
Many thanks, Lorenzo. 

[Rogue Reverend]

I was going to buy that sniper rifle but i'd be paying for hte stock and pretty much building my BAR10 again. 2nd Zero Trigger? NO THANKS. hahah

Lets have some performance shots!

[nickswimsfast]

I have to agree with what DHM78 has said. Since you are limited to precisely 1Joule of energy the selection of components is simplified. I would recommend your focus be on consistency.This can be done with focus on hopup, reducing air leaks, proper cleaning, and testing.

Cylinder/piston
You don't need a lot of the components you have been looking at. A barikaru, HD, or Palsonite cylinder are unnecessary since you already have hit your power limit. Look at the components for their consistency performance only. I would inspect your current setup and test the compression of the cylinder/piston set. If you have any leaks, go through and teflon tape the cylinder head. Clean and polish your cylinder. Inspect the o-ring, relube with a high viscosity grease safe for airsoft. Ensure your cylinder isn't shooting any of the grease before reinstalling it into the barrel, this is a common noob mistake. It can shoot the lube onto your hopup and in your barrel, making your shots very inconsistent.

Hopup/Barrel
If you can afford it buy all the components you think will help your consistency. Some parts to consider purchasing for testing would be: Nineball bucking, TM hopup unit, Tanio Koba, or PDI 6.01. I personally run a PDI 6.01 and have been happy with it. I will say that it can get adversely dirty easily. If any dirt or particles get in it, you will immediately notice a drop in performance as there is little gap between the barrel and the BB. Bigger barrels like 6.03/6.04 might be more optimal for the dirty sport of airsoft, strictly for that reason alone. I'd say PDI 6.01 needs to be cleaned right before ever game day. I know one person who has used the Tanio Koba twist barrel in an AEG. He said it was more accurate but required frequent cleaning as the grooves would get dirty easily. IMHO get a smooth barrel, unless you are willing to buy and test both. Ultimately, you'll never know what is better without testing it yourself.

My word about hopup... there is no perfect answer. Noobie's TDC kit is great if you can get it. A properly tweaked a stock hopup can be as good or better than a TM hopup, but the TM hopup takes some of the work out of it, because it is simply made better. Hopup's are finicky things, and require continual attention and testing.

TEST TEST TEST
Don't take someone else's word for it, if you are unsure what is better, try both! Here is a video about tweaking i released recently, might have some useful info in it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=do0bN2_HKUM

[Kronox]

First of all thanks for the reply:)
I agree with you in saying that all these upgrades are probably unnecessary if I have to shoot 1joule power (such as the Palsonite Cylinder which costs a fortune and do not need: P) but the expense just because i'm manic and i want all Upgrade from the same brand.
As for cleaning .. do not worry I am very picky and polished all at the end always played (in fact I have problems with the screw thread because of disassembled and reassembled the gun a lot times ahahaha ).
Regarding Noobie's HopUp unit ... I'm looking for some American or European who sells it but I can not find it right now: (
Finally, thank you very much for the video .. was very informative! : D
Many thanks, Lorenzo.

[The Crimson Falcon]

May I just say that the one thing I would do with a 1J setup (and have done numerous times), is to run a Tanio Koba twist barrel rather than 6.00 or 6.01.  TK Twist barrels are quite a bit more accurate on a 1J setup than a tightbore; tightbores become necessary when the power exceeds what the twist barrel can handle, but they're hardly the barrel of choice.  Honestly, a bone stock VSR-10 with a TK twist barrel and washed bucking is a pretty fantastically good gun for a 1J limit.  I've been known to skirmish one in CQB arenas, in fact, because it's just so much more accurate than what most everyone else uses.  Ideally, I'd run a TK twist, TM precision hopup chamber, and maybe a zero or v-trigger for the lighter trigger pull (less jerk to move your muzzle).    I'd still get the Palsonite or teflon cylinder for reducing difficulty in cocking your gun (smoother cocking means faster and more reliable followup shots), but most of the stock parts will still be just fine.