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[L a R i A t]

I've put my M40A1 and M11A1 on the sidelines for the moment. I truly miss my old AEG M16 DMR, the range and versatility was unbelievable. So I've got the money pooled together to purchase a G&G M14, now before I do so I need to be reassured. I've never upgraded or done much of anything with an AEG. I've always sent mine out to be worked on. Now I've decided to learn about the workings of an AEG, and save money by doing the work myself.

1. G&G is it's own design, cloned by Classic Army. Not compatible with Marui M14 parts. Is this correct?
2. G&G is pre-upgraded, the tappet plate and the air nozzle are the only fault points. Is this correct?
3. G&G comes with a 6.04mm barrel. Is this correct?

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Alright... So once I have the gun in my hands, I should have no problem setting the gun up for deans connectors with a lipoly? I can just put deans on a 11.1 lipo and on the gun and then run it like that?

I'm hoping that the internals are pre-upgraded (They better be because I don't know where to get more parts because I've heard G&G doesn't work with standard V7 parts). Assuming the internals are upgraded, then I'm only going to have to worry about replacing the motor with one that's suited to pull a stiffer spring?

I'm going to have full-auto removed at purchase, so once I get it I'll only have Safe & Semi. Can I run a lipo, shooting only semi, without a mosfet? (I don't know what a mosfet is but I've heard that they are recommended, not required for a lipo setup) I'm looking to get 400 fps, with insane trigger response (The most I can have is 440 fps, my field has two kinds of DMR's... Class 1 & Class 2 - Class 1 = 440fps, standard MED, Hi-caps allowed, and Class 2 = 480 fps, 75ft MED, Std. mags OR Mid-caps with field official permission). I don't want to have 480 fps, because I'd feel like a newb for carrying a lasergun, also, 75ft engagement distance sucks.

[Nan]

1. Correct, The G&G M14 design actually utilizes a plethora of different versions of parts. Look at the parts TheAirsoftReviewer1 used for his G&G EBR build to give you a better idea.

2. I haven't had any problem with the Tappet in my G&G and the air nozzle does need replaced.

3. Correct.

I currently have Deans connectors in my M14 and I am not using a MOSFET. I am using an 11.1v 25c and various 7.4v LiPoly batteries (30c-40c) so I am likely going to be subject to having my trigger contacts arc-weld together. In short, GET A MOSFET (even just a little home-brew FET.) If you want it to reliably work without having any electrical issues of that sort.  The Standard G&G M14 gun SHOULD be shooting just over 400 FPS out of the box (varies) with a simple checkup and the Veteran is closer to the 440 FPS mark but can be either a tad below or above.

 Laser guns are not nooby, if you can reliably run upwards of 480 FPS then you are far superior to any "noob."

If there's anything else I can help you out with or if I failed to answer some questions, let me know or ask the other members on this forum.

[L a R i A t]

Can you go more in-depth with the home-brew mosfet? Google turned up one forum where I found a little information, but it's all way to complicated for me to take in.

Also, I've heard of a mosfet that replaces the trigger mechanism, increasing durability, trigger response, and rate of fire... but the conversation was about a M249, not a M14.

How does a TM M14 with a Guarder FTK stand up against a stock G&G?

[VertBert]

Airsoftforum, though not the best forum out there, has a great electrical guide covering a lot about aeg electrical systems, including a guide on making your own MOSFET. Here's the link:
 http://www.airsoftforum.com/board/Aeg-Electrical-Guide-t104376.html

[Nan]

Can you go more in-depth with the home-brew mosfet? Google turned up one forum where I found a little information, but it's all way to complicated for me to take in.

Also, I've heard of a mosfet that replaces the trigger mechanism, increasing durability, trigger response, and rate of fire... but the conversation was about a M249, not a M14.

How does a TM M14 with a Guarder FTK stand up against a stock G&G?

I say home-brew MOSFET meaning a homemade simple little MOSFET. To make one you will need electrical and soldering skill. You can purchase a simple one for 15 bucks or less from many sources.  

The reason the M249 trigger mechanism could be "replaced" with the MOSFET is because of that guns design. It utilizes and electrical trigger versus a mechanical trigger and like with ANY MOSFET, It made the trigger response, Durability and (most of the time) Rate of fire increase.

Tm M14s are decent out of the box with the infamous TM Hop-up. With a Guarder FTK you would likely have breakages in the gears at one point due to guarder's inferior hardening techniques/ machining.  I would personally go with a G&G M14 in lieu of a TM brand M14 because the gearbox design is better in my opinion and it takes more readily available V.2/V.3 part where as TM takes V.7 parts.

There is a major issue with being a G&G M14 owner and that is sourcing mags for a CA or G&G M14 can be hard at times and when you do come across them they are VERY expensive (22-35 dollars a mag).  Also, TM M14s and clones have WAY more external parts and what not available for them. 

Also note:A TM M14 will not accept a Lipo out of the box either, you'll need to do much of the same stuff as with the G&G.

Hope I can further help you.  

and @ VertBert

Airsoftforum is a fine forum. There is really nothing that makes it any worse than AirsoftRetreat except for disorganized Buy/Sell/Trade Section. It has a LOT of the same user-base as here too...  I wold not suggest putting down other forums for no reason.

[L a R i A t]

I say home-brew MOSFET meaning a homemade simple little MOSFET. To make one you will need electrical and soldering skill. You can purchase a simple one for 15 bucks or less from many sources.  

The reason the M249 trigger mechanism could be "replaced" with the MOSFET is because of that guns design. It utilizes and electrical trigger versus a mechanical trigger and like with ANY MOSFET, It made the trigger response, Durability and (most of the time) Rate of fire increase.

Tm M14s are decent out of the box with the infamous TM Hop-up. With a Guarder FTK you would likely have breakages in the gears at one point due to guarder's inferior hardening techniques/ machining.  I would personally go with a G&G M14 in lieu of a TM brand M14 because the gearbox design is better in my opinion and it takes more readily available V.2/V.3 part where as TM takes V.7 parts.

There is a major issue with being a G&G M14 owner and that is sourcing mags for a CA or G&G M14 can be hard at times and when you do come across them they are VERY expensive (22-35 dollars a mag).  Also, TM M14s and clones have WAY more external parts and what not available for them. 

Also note:A TM M14 will not accept a Lipo out of the box either, you'll need to do much of the same stuff as with the G&G.

Hope I can further help you.  

and @ VertBert

Airsoftforum is a fine forum. There is really nothing that makes it any worse than AirsoftRetreat except for disorganized Buy/Sell/Trade Section. It has a LOT of the same user-base as here too...  I wold not suggest putting down other forums for no reason.

I've decided to go for the G&G. I heard that the G&P DMR stock can be fitted with a little dremel and bondo work. A friend of mine will let me compare his G&P DMR stock to my G&G M14 stock, so I can see what to do.

Airsoftforum, though not the best forum out there, has a great electrical guide covering a lot about aeg electrical systems, including a guide on making your own MOSFET. Here's the link:
 http://www.airsoftforum.com/board/Aeg-Electrical-Guide-t104376.html

Exactly the forum, post, and guide I was looking at. Too complicated for me haha. I'll buy a MOSFET for the $40 or so I guess.

[Nan]

Good Luck with the G&P Stock Mod.... You'll Need it!

And like I said, You can get a MOSFET for as cheap or cheaper than 15 dollars.

[BigEd]

Breif history of G&G M14 Intel

First M14 on the market was ASC (AirSoftClub), then 1.5 years later G&G M14 was introduced, and then the V7 Marui a Year after that. None of the mags are interchangeble.

Each generation:

Gen 1 - Plastic bushings, no fuse.
Gen 2 - Plastic bushings, fuse.
Gen 3 - Bearings and fuse.
Gen 4 - Bearings, fuse, trigger lever assist spring.
Gen 5 - Bearings - one larger, fuse, trigger lever assist spring.
Gen 6 - Blowback, Bearings - one larger, fuse, trigger lever assist spring. (Have not worked on one)

The CA M14 is a copy of the G&G M14.


G&G M14 parts internally:

V2/V3 Gears
V3 Spring Guide
AUG Airnozzle
Short Motors
Standard Cylinder
Standard Spring
Standard Piston
Standard Piston Head
G&G M14 Proprietary Cylinder Head
G&G M14 Proprietary Tappet Plate
G&G M14 Proprietary Anti-Reversal latch
7mm Bushings/Bearings
AUG Hop Up Unit
509mm Barrel
Standard Hop Up rubber

Some of my mods:

SPDT auto relay as AB mosfet, still running fine after 5 years. It's also listed somewhere on the forum here...


G&G M14 trigger bypass:
http://ww2aa.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=m1garand&action=display&thread=2822
(An auto relay and a 9.6v will fit in the stock, with a lipo, you'll have a ton of room.)

G&G M14 Shotgunshell mag mod:
http://ww2aa.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=m1garand&action=display&thread=8459

G&G M14 "Feather" Trigger mod:
http://ww2aa.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=m1garand&action=display&thread=2817
(This mod is for older versions without the assist spring on the trigger lever.)

///ed///

[Infidelis]

I really love my G&G Soc16, but I have always been curious how similar CA and G&G 14's were. Do they use the same heavily reinforced hybrid gearbox? I know the mags are compatible, but I am more interested in the externals and hop-up assembly. I don't really fear my G&G gearbox will give out anytime soon ha ha.

Any knowledge too fill my thread jacking plea would be appreciated!

[L a R i A t]

My G&G is running top, I couldn't be happier. I'm using a G&P m120 Dmr motor, and yes a G&P stock can be fitted if you have enough time. I do not have the time and therefor not fitted it but it can be done (atleast it looks so).

EDIT: Upon close inspection, the stock looks like it might be harder to fit than first expected. Nonetheless, I still believe it can be fitted. "It can be fitted, assuming you have the time." Still stands.