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[collared lizard]

Hy everyone,

I recently got an snow wolf from a friend (for free) but it's trown into pieces. 
I got in 1000 parts.
Now I got it about 90 procent back in order, but is there someone who can help me put the last pieces back at its place.

Here are the pics.

This is the way I got it.
 

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I was able to puzzle it back together to this :


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I put the replica back together, and now it somethimes fire's but only 1 out of 10 times.
Anyone some hints or tips?

[lulukchoo23]

The key to assembling the gun's trigger mechanism back together is those 90 degree angle springs. These are really tricky, since the 2 springs require 4 points of contact to be in place when you put the box halves together.

Here's a more visual explanation.

Everything in that second picture looks perfectly fine except for those angled springs, which are the ones I've circled in this here photo:



NOTE: There should be 2 of these, one on both sides of the piston sear, facing in reverse directions. Your photo shows that there's only 1 spring.

These springs are key to keep the piston sear centered. What happens is that, when you pull the trigger, that sear violently rotates when the piston shoots forward. The springs push back against the sear when it rotates, bringing it back to its original 90 degree position.

In order for the springs to work correctly, the springs need to be able to push on (1) the piston sear, and (2) the trigger box. The trigger box is the base for the springs to push on. It's like the ground to your feet, allowing you to jump.

So, when you look at one of those angled springs, you'll notice that on one end of it, it's long and straight, while the other end is bent at a 90 degree angle. The Long end must push against the piston sear's nub, while the Bent end must be tucked INSIDE of the shell when you put the second half over it, allowing it to push against the shell. Here's a photo:



Your spring is facing in the correct direction, having its Bent end pointing away from the piston sear. This is what you want. So, that means that the spring that should be behind the piston sear right now should be pointing into the table, away from the piston sear, while the spring that's closest to us should have it's Bend end pointing away from the table, away away from the piston sear, like it already is.

You must do this with BOTH of the angled springs on BOTH sides of the sear. The springs will push the nubs on opposing directions, allowing the piston sear to sit at a 90 degree angle. The tricky part is tucking in both of the Bent ends inside of the shell without have the Straight end slip off the nub while you put the shell together.

This doesn't always happen the first time you try it. It took me nearly an hour and a half to put mine together correctly the first time. You might need to physically bend the spring by hand in order for it to not slip off the piston sear's nub, like I had to do.

[collared lizard]

Thank you very very much.
I'll try it this afternoon.

[collared lizard]

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I still have these parts left, anyone an idea?

It now fire's 1 out of 2 but not as it should be.
If I Pull up the spring once, it doesn't fire.
If I pull up the spring twice, it fire's IF I play with the safety



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The piece with the half round handle.

Anyone some hints?

[lulukchoo23]

Are you saying that the trigger won't pull?

If the piston won't lock (you don't hear the distinctive *click* when you pull the bolt back), then the problem is either the piston sear (which is what I helped you with) or the piston end's lip.

However, if what I think is happening, you are saying that, even though the piston DOES lock, when you pull the trigger, the piston does not release?

[collared lizard]

You are correct, the trigger doesn't work. I will try to put a movie online to show this.

I will also throw the gun back apart, take more pics and show them here.
Hopefully this will help.

Greets.
            Stijn.

[lulukchoo23]

Well, I'm thinking that it's the safety then. If you can lock the piston back, but the trigger won't pull, odds are, the safety mechanism is getting in the way. The gun has 2 different safeties:

-There's the 1st one, which is the manual safety which you can activate/deactivate with that black lever.
-The 2nd one is a built-in bolt safety, which activates ANYTIME the bolt is not in the "ready" position, meaning the bolt is pushed in and the handle is down. Once the bolt is pushed in and the handle is down, this safety is deactivated.

If any of these 2 safeties are active, then the trigger will not pull backwards.

--------------------------

So, the reason I'm telling you this is because, according to what you said, it sounds like one of these safeties may be interfering with your gun. It's quite common. Many spring guns have safety problems, in which the safety activates itself even when you don't want it to.

I'm thinking that it's the 1st safety: the manual safety. If I were you, I would try to mess around with it as much as I could. I'm thinking that the safety is getting in the way of the long, trigger sear. The safety must be COMPLETELY pushed forward towards the trigger lever in order for the safety to deactivate, allowing the trigger sear to move upwards. If the safety's lever is stuck, or won't budge, you may have a piece that's either missing or doesn't belong there.

If anything, you could always just remove that black lever. Sometimes, safeties get in the way too often with springers, and the users just don't even use them. Some aftermarket triggers don't even have safeties either. But, do this once you've tried what I said before.


Also, if you want to take more pictures, one of the pictures I would like to see is of the trigger box completely screwed shut, with everything inside and ready to go, springs and everything. Don't be afraid to post other pictures though.