Topic: Homemade chest rig/vest (Read 2407 times)

Andy · « **on:** March 30, 2008, 08:24:01 PM »

Well, I'm gathering supplies to make a homemade chest rig. I plan for it to be black and relatively light weight. I hope to incorporate an MP5K holster as well. I have all the tools and skills I will need to make it (my father has an upholstery shop), but I need some help on the design and materials. What cloth would you recommend making the chest rig out of? I was thinking using canvas, but I figured I'd see what else is out there. Also, does anyone have any ideas on designing the chest rig? I plan to make it kind of similar to this: http://www.sportsmansguide.com/net/cb/cb.aspx?a=282710. I would like to have a few more pockets for AUG and MP5K magazines along with some other small items. Any ideas?

pjones · « **Reply #1 on:** March 30, 2008, 08:32:29 PM »

The Rhodesian army used a number of custom chest rigs/vests during the Bush War. I'll see if I can upload some of the pics I've found.

Andy · « **Reply #2 on:** March 30, 2008, 08:37:23 PM »

Thanks, some pictures would definately help in making this.

reddeth · « **Reply #3 on:** March 30, 2008, 08:40:07 PM »

Use Codura Nylon. It can be anywhere from 600-1000 (1000 being the most durable) They use it for Chest rigs, tac vests, and plate carriers

KyPlinker · « **Reply #4 on:** March 30, 2008, 08:45:36 PM »

Didnt Roob do something like this a while back, anyone have a link to that thread?

Burke · « **Reply #5 on:** March 31, 2008, 02:50:47 PM »

He took a triple shingle and added straps to it making it a chest rig

FaRKle0079 · « **Reply #6 on:** March 31, 2008, 03:15:09 PM »

Ever look at HSGI's offereings? That would be a pretty good template.

the roob · « **Reply #7 on:** March 31, 2008, 07:32:52 PM »

you need this link:

http://www.diytactical.com/main/

All the materials to do what you want the right way. Souds like you already have the tools and know-how. Be sure to show us the results.

pjones · « **Reply #8 on:** March 31, 2008, 09:45:20 PM »

The Rhodesian Army used a number of locally-made load bearing vests and chest rigs during the Bush War, many of them inspired by the webbing captured from ZIPRA and ZANU "terrs."

This two example is very similar to the Chinese and Russian AK and SKS chest bandoleers.

This next example (shown front and back) shows a fuller support yoke in the back as well as a more belt-like setup which allows for the carrying of canteens and a sleeping pad/poncho.

This is a similar vest, seen from the front:

The final example is a "Fireforce" vest, worn by the Rhodesian Light Infantry on their airborne rapid reaction operations.

RLI troopies wearing LBVs:

Andy · « **Reply #9 on:** March 31, 2008, 11:17:52 PM »

That first picture is perfect. Exactly along the lines of what I want to make. Add a holster on the side or back, fit the pockets to my needs, and I'd be set. By the way, that is some sweet camo. Know where I could get some?

pjones · « **Reply #10 on:** April 01, 2008, 10:55:01 AM »

If I did I would have bought some.

Rhodie camo is really hard to find.

DrewB · « **Reply #11 on:** April 01, 2008, 12:26:29 PM »

Trident has some.

pjones · « **Reply #12 on:** April 02, 2008, 06:51:27 AM »

It's been "coming soon!" for two or three years now.

dakine · « **Reply #13 on:** April 02, 2008, 03:36:28 PM »

Make sure you get the right thread and needles as well. Some upholstery needles I know of are made to cut or punch a hole in the material since it is most of the time thick. Some upholstry machines as well don't have the right stitch lenght for gear but by the looks of the picture I don't think you will have much trouble building that with a upholstry machine. I am sure your father has a mulit purpose machine in his shop though which would work well.

Be careful though as gear making can make you a addict.

The gear I made.

Burke · « **Reply #14 on:** April 02, 2008, 05:41:30 PM »

Nice rig dakine. I had a family memebr contracted to make me a MC LBV

In regards to the original topic making a vets is pretty easy is you have apattern to go off. This was made with a regular sewing machine with Genuine Crye 750D Multicam.

dump pouch is multisahm...

PsychoticWolf · « **Reply #15 on:** April 02, 2008, 06:34:35 PM »

Hey guys do you think i could make a MOLLE vest out of a hunting vest?

To be Marine · « **Reply #16 on:** April 02, 2008, 06:45:12 PM »

Probably. Don't know how it would look, and you'd need a good vest and some webbing. Just remember to eave just a teeeeny bit of marginal error by sewing the webbing slightly wider than you thik you'll need. So even if you are off, it's still molle compatable.(I've gotten several molle items that had too narrow spacing to accept molle pouches)

PsychoticWolf · « **Reply #17 on:** April 02, 2008, 06:52:39 PM »

If you can, tell me the spacing of the MOLLE horizontally and vertically???

Burke · « **Reply #18 on:** April 02, 2008, 06:57:36 PM »

I believe, not 100% but believe it is 1" square.... or 1" space and 1" space between rows.

PsychoticWolf · « **Reply #19 on:** April 02, 2008, 07:06:05 PM »

Okay thx ill try that out.

pjones · « **Reply #20 on:** April 02, 2008, 09:27:09 PM »

Quote from: Burke on April 02, 2008, 05:41:30 PM

Nice rig dakine. I had a family memebr contracted to make me a MC LBV

In regards to the original topic making a vets is pretty easy is you have apattern to go off. This was made with a regular sewing machine with Genuine Crye 750D Multicam.

dump pouch is multisahm...

Multicam ALICE gear? That's the sweetest thing ever.

jlkdsjalkgnodkgjdklfja · « **Reply #21 on:** April 02, 2008, 10:26:09 PM »

Quote from: reddeth on March 30, 2008, 08:40:07 PM

Use Codura Nylon. It can be anywhere from 600-1000 (1000 being the most durable) They use it for Chest rigs, tac vests, and plate carriers

I wouldn't recommend 600D. Anything under 1000D is only really used in extremely cheap crappy bags n such. 1000D Cordura Nylon is the standard for any tactical gear or really any other pack or bag worth your time.

Quote from: Burke on April 02, 2008, 06:57:36 PM

I believe, not 100% but believe it is 1" square.... or 1" space and 1" space between rows.

eh, close. Your standard MOLLE grid consists of 1" webbing stitched at 1.5" increments and spaced in rows 1" apart (for the platform side- like a vest or whatever). The backside of a pouch varies depending on which design/method you're using to attach the pouches.

Like mentioned, your absolute best resource out there for gear building is diytactical. He has a great store with all the mil spec materials you will need and a messageboard with extremely helpful info. There you can read about what exact materials to use, construction methods, everything.

Squeezeme · « **Reply #22 on:** April 03, 2008, 02:12:36 PM »

Quote from: sgtkillmore on April 02, 2008, 10:26:09 PM

I wouldn't recommend 600D. Anything under 1000D is only really used in extremely cheap crappy bags n such. 1000D Cordura Nylon is the standard for any tactical gear or really any other pack or bag worth your time.

Well Condor is 600D and they are pretty good but only for airsoft. In the real world 600D wouldn't stand a chance. I remember Tacgearstore trying to sell Condor to troops in Iraq. Ha. Anyway, if I wasn't so late I would have said DIY Tactical but I was too late. That is undoubtedly your best bet though. Maybe I should look at some stuff there. Build myself an X-S OTV, lol.

dakine · « **Reply #23 on:** April 05, 2008, 09:24:39 PM »

Would not go below 750... 1000 is the best but you need more than your plane jane home machine to do anything usful with it. You can use a noraml machine but it will break really quick. I have a commercial machine which is not quite industrial but its stronger and faster than home machines.

Yeah that is correct on the spacing. 1.5" between bartacks and 1'' apart up and down. Also using 1" webbing. I use 17337 I I think it is, some don't like it but it works fine for me.

When I do molle sewing... I do a grid on the vest or whatever I am sewing with a sharpie. I do it in a way so when its all sewn up you can't see it. If you use a fine sherpie and do the 1.5" spacings on the actual webbing then by time you sew over it and bartack the sharpie is below the stitches. That is how I do clean and even sewing as well as making sure its going to work. Anytime I half ass it and don't do the gird and or the web markings then it comes out funny.

jlkdsjalkgnodkgjdklfja · « **Reply #24 on:** April 05, 2008, 11:08:20 PM »

You can get by on a home machine but it needs to be an older one. Back in the day they built those things like tanks- much stronger than the plastic wonders you'll find at wally world. I don't think that'll be a problem for Andy though since he mentioned having access to an upholstery shop.

Technically, milspec 43668 is the standard for MOLLE/PALS webbing, although 17337 is not unheard of.

A tailor's pencil (pretty much just a colored pencil, usually blue or white) works great for marking lines and rubs off relatively easily.

News:

Author Topic: Homemade chest rig/vest (Read 2407 times)