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[Plato56]

I noticed something today.  The outer barrel on my bar-10 is kinda loose.  it can easly move as the stock flexes.  And the original stock DOES flex.  So i tore it down and realized when not in the stock, the whole barrel reciver asembely is not very tight because you cant screw it in all the way without throwing the alinenment of the hopup off so much that it cant be reassembled.

there are only two things i can think of to make this all ridiged. 

1. make the stock compleatly riged somehow, or buy a new aftermarket stock

2. make the outer barrel and reciver joint tighter somehow. 

Help me out guys, i know i cant be the only one to realize this.  Bet ya thats why PDI makes new recivers and barrels...

[Nshadow]

I'm not sure about the stock but I bet TCF's composite stock mod would help a little.

And for the outer barrel not being tight into the receiver, I noticed this a while back and I was worried about it turning because it allowed some play before it engages the screw. I feared this might cause a little misalignment because it might act like I was holding the gun sideways. I put some teflon tape around the threads just to see what it did and it did make it a little tighter, but when you disassemble it the tape would come off and leave a mess in your receiver.

After going through that I realized it doesnt really matter because the shorter screw you put into the stock screws into the casing of the hopup/feeding assembly so turning of the outer barrel isn't possible.

[Noscope_Master]

the whole barrel reciver asembely is not very tight because you cant screw it in all the way without throwing the alinenment of the hopup off so much that it cant be reassembled.

Did you put the big screw in front? I don't know what else you could be talking about...

[Nshadow]

Did you put the big screw in front? I don't know what else you could be talking about...

He means that when you screw the outer barrel into the receiver it will keep turning. The threads don't stop at the correct time so the barrel really isn't screwed on tight.

[Noscope_Master]

I don't know what to say. The body of my bar 10 doesn't flex at all and the outer barrel is not supposed to screw in all the way. There is a small screw that goes through the receiver and into the outer barrel locking it in place. If you want to eliminate body flex you should do the foam stock mod and Crimson's composite stock mod. As for the outer barrel, does it turn or wobble?

[killer_shot]

I think I know what you're talking about.. the BAR-10 outer barrel's hole for the screw will not line up when screwed all the way in right? If so, yeah mine does that too, I just screw it in until it gets to the last part where it won't line up, then unscrew it a bit to the last place the hole lines up and I just put the screw in there.

[Plato56]

Trust me, ther is flex.  I didnt notice this untill i painted my stock and could see the contrast as it would flex.  The problem here is with a heavy spring, if eveything is not tight and fitted, the impact of the piston will cause vibration and that vibration will affect ANY moving part thowing off accuracy. 

[Philosopher]

I agree about the flex.  I have observed this too, but on my gun it does not seem to be as pronounced as you have described yours.   Nevertheless, I have never liked how the barrel does not thread all the way.  It really should lock into place when threaded all the way.  I currently use YELLOW Teflon tape on the outer barrel's threads.  Yellow tape is thicker than white and works well in this application.  It helps quite a bit.

I have been considering one of these two things as a solution:
1.  Find some sort of big, thin spacer/washer that I can use at the barrel-to-receiver connection.  I thought that I maybe could get it so that the barrel screwed in tight against the washer, making the whole thing more solid.

2.  However, the idea I like even better is to VERY CAREFULLY shorten the outer barrel by maybe 1 thread.  I would probably use a hand file (bastard file) to remove a little metal at a time until I could screw the barrel all the way in until it seated tightly with the set screw aligned. 
Shortening the outer barrel would move the inner barrel and hop-up assembly closer to the cylinder, and it is possible that the cylinder head's nozzle might have to be modified to accommodate this.  But seriously, I imagine that if you are competent enough to correctly bring in the outer barrel, reworking the cylinder head should not be any more difficult.

Peace and grease
-Philosopher

[Plato56]

Both good idea Philosopher.  I like your first idea better thow.  I realy dislike the idea of having to modify the cylinder head as if i want to use diffrent cylinder heads or change them out latter, im going to have to modify those as well. 

The spacer idea however is the same thing i have been thinking about but what could i posabley use?

[Lee25]

I think I know what you're talking about.. the BAR-10 outer barrel's hole for the screw will not line up when screwed all the way in right? If so, yeah mine does that too, I just screw it in until it gets to the last part where it won't line up, then unscrew it a bit to the last place the hole lines up and I just put the screw in there.

Yeah, that's what I do, too, but my stock holds the outer barrel in place fine.  Without the stock, it is a little wobbly.