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» Number of reviews : 182 - viewing 10 Per Page

Last Review Posted by Bigfatts - posted: Sat February 13, 2010 8:25pm

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In the search for my first AEG I came across this little jewel. I play primarily CQB and this looked to fit the bill. As with all my guns I bought it with thoughts towards what I could turn it into, not what it started out as. So here are my thoughts. Ordering: I bought the gun at Evike on sale for $89. For one penny more I got three CYMA mags with the gun (2-200rd wind ups and 1-50rd). Service from Evike was good although a tad slower than I would like. Anyways, moving on... Initial thoughts: I got the gun in from UPS and noticed a nice glossy box with pics of the gun on it. A high quality pretty box seems to be important to some, so I would rate this one a 9. Taking the gun out of the box I was surprised to find a rather nice looking gun with a good heft to it, though my eye was immediately drawn to the huge ugly orange flash hider (more on that later). The ABS body seems well made and sturdy enough to last. The finish is a nice matte. There are noticeable seams, the most prominent on the top of the gun that runs between the sights. While the rear sight is not a standard HK sight I prefer it to the typical barrel sights (which I have used in the real world and despise due to their limited and hard to aquire sight picture). The front sight is metal and quite usable. The forward vertical grip and forearm are one piece and solid enough, though I wouldn't put the Chuck Norris grip on it. The cocking handle itself is metal but the rest of the assembly is plastic so use it gently. Not that it can only be used when the gun is without the battery. I found the stock to be solid and well made. It has a minor vertical wobble but I think that is the design itself and cannot be attributed to low quality. It is kind of hard to use the forward grip with the stock in the folded position, but again, this is a flaw of the design- not this particular model. The ability to remove the stock while keeping the end cap is a plus if you want to use it in pistol form. My gun coming from Evike, it is missing the Galaxy markings, etc. The gun itself has no trades on it, the mag however is marked 9x19. Unlike some, my high cap works fine, it's the low cap that is finicky. I charged up the battery with the included charger and put it in the gun. This isn't hard as some have said, but it is a little involved. You must remove the stock/end cap and the forward grip. Slide the battery in wires first and down and replace the stock/end cap. Then connect the battery and move the wires out of the way so you can get the fore arm back on. Not hard, but a little too time consuming to do on the filed of battle. The pins are very nice and stay in place well. There is a trick to getting them in: Hold the pin diagonal to the hole with the retaining tab in the hole then pull the pin up straight while keeping the retainer depressed, then simply slide the pin in. The front pin also has a sling mount built in. The sling provided with the gun is a little cheesie and I'm not sure I would trust it. *A note on the metal parts, the finish is rather poor though the parts themselves seem to be well made. Performance: With the battery fully charged and after a little cleaning I took it out to the back yard to dial in the hop up. I did as best as I could but the gun still overhopped the bbs. All I had on hand were Airsoft Elite .2g bbs. I got it as low as I could but still couldn't manage to hit the fence at the far end of the yard (about 60ft). Oh well, it's a CQB gun anyways. I broke out the chronograph and shot an average of 329 fps (based on a string of 10 shots averaged out with the AE .2gs. After about a thousand rounds the fps settled at around 315). Not too shabby. The accuracy is good enough I can nail a Coke can every time within the gun's useful range. I didn't do any formal tests. This gun afterall only needs to shoot Minute of Torso. The rate of fire is a little low but on par with my brother's JG G36 and my other brother's Sig 552, also using stock batteries. A replacement battery will be a big upgrade. As it is, it's usable with the stock battery. I fought a couple battles and the gun performed flawlessly. I was however doomed a couple times by the overhop. Your enemies aren't too concerned when the bbs fly straight up after 50 ft... I got several kills however and am pleased with the gun. It handles like an extension of myself. I am quite large (6'2" 240lbs) but the gun fits me well. Also the selector clicks firmly into each setting. I've borrowed a couple AEGs and nothing is worse than expecting a burst of cover fire and getting a single shot because your switch worked itself in semi. Pros/cons Pros: Price- where else can you get a decent AEG with a V3 gb for under $100? V3 gearbox ABS body is nicely built A good amount of metal parts Accuracy is good within the gun's range Handles very well Nice metal flash hider under the big ugly orange one Can convert to K model by removing stock Cons: Big ugly plastic flash hider Loud gearbox Noticeable seams Finicky factory mags Overhop makes the gun useable for CQB only in stock form NEEDED mods: Hop up bucking Better battery Now onto my mods! After shooting the gun stock for a little while I decided it needed modifying. So I went on ASGI and ordered some stuff. I ordered: Systema bucking Systema air nozzle ASGI Masamune 6.01 tbb (200mm) Also picked up an 83mm mock suppressor on Ebay to cover the new tbb The installation went well although I must note the loud gearbox is louder now that I removed all that cosmoline-esque grease. I can install basic gb parts but I will take it to have a shim job done. The metal flash hider has a lip on the inside of it to keep the stock barrel from moving out. This has to be ground down to add a longer internal bbl. Since the metal is soft Chinese stuff I used a small jeweler's file to cut it down. You could use a Dremel with a sanding bit to do it quicker. The stock bucking is crap. Gummy rubber and worthless. With the new parts installed the gun shoots roughly 345fps, which is a 30 fps increase over factory and higher than the 330 limit most public fileds allow. I haven't been able to dial in the hop up properly thanks to all the storming here the last few days but I can now hit the fence in my back yard where the bbs flew skyward before reaching it. Once I get the hop up dialed in, look for a review on the Masamune tbb. Now for a couple pics: The Masamune tbb The whole shabang Rating: 9

Product Details: "MP5K PDW" by Cheesehead - posted: Tue June 12, 2007 - Rating: 8.25

Last Review Posted by dustinr - posted: Wed January 27, 2010 10:26pm

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Pretty good rifle, especially when you consider the cheap price. Chrono'ed mine at 410fps (+/-5fps) with some hand picked .2g rounds. Spring pull is fairly easy, and not a problem from the prone. Rail doesn't like the mount rings on my scope, but that can be shimmed up. Either way, works great for the money. Rating: 8

Product Details: "Sharp Shooter MP001" by Cheesehead - posted: Wed November 29, 2006 - Rating: 7.00

Last Review Posted by ricepattie5 - posted: Sun October 25, 2009 4:05pm

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I bought this gun from Professor, off the Wisconsin Airsoft Forums. He did a really good woodland paintjob. When I first got this gun I fired about 300 rounds through it before the motor seized up...anyone want a seized motor? I bought another one, used, for Ten Dollars. I use a 9.6v Intellect and G&G .20 Bios. I can hit a man sized target at 150 Feet. I recommend this gun if you can find it used for less than 50 bucks...if you buy it new, for-what I've seen 100 bucks--you can get better gun for a bit more or less money...CYMA AK series, G&G combat machine..JGs... I am VERY happy with my gun mainly because of the low price. It is readily available, in '07 a friend bought one from KMART...is that a good thing? I really don't know anymore... Well, thanks for reading --Mitch Rating: 8

Product Details: "R8" by Cheesehead - posted: Sat September 30, 2006 - Rating: 6.80

Last Review Posted by Freeman13 - posted: Thu October 15, 2009 6:25pm

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10/12/09 Galaxy MP5 PDW Review What you get: I bought mine ever so slightly used (300rds through her) so you may notice mine does not have the 28rd low cap and the really poor sling. Upon further inspection it becomes apparent that a “special battery” and “exclusive charger are included ☺ we love you Galaxy. The Box: The box has a lot more art work than the MP5K box, which some might prefer. I think box art may foreshadow the quality of the product, and with this art is not the best, but by far not the worst. Once the box is open it will look similar to this. Battery: The battery is a standard China 8.4v 1100mah stick type. It is extremely mediocre and easily replaceable; I would recommend a 9.6v battery for a little higher rate of fire. Charger: The charger is also a mediocre China one. This also should be replaced if the rifle is going to be used in something other than backyard wars. Mag: Since I only have the high cap mag that is the only one I will review. In short it is not the best. These often don’t work, feed poor, or break. It is an expensive solution, but buying some mid caps is probably one of the best options, especially for high speed set ups. How ever the mag does have some interesting trades, it reads: “9mm x19 IF” This is stamped in the metal on the left side of the mag, and are the only trade marks on the rifle. I believe the low cap is metal as well is the high. Flash Hider: Now one thing I do not have in my pictures is a bright orange plastic flash hider that goes around the nice little metal one in these pictures. This is because I made it into a suppressor, which in the end didn’t really work out for me, but you might have better luck. Anyway a few things to point out, this flash hider is really cheap and practically disposable. If yours came glued to your rifle I advise that you remove it to be able to properly get the forgrip on and off your rifle. Please note this is not illegal, as all replicas come with two flash hiders, both of which are painted orange. The other one is underneath the first and is metal and has 14mm CC wise threads so you can attach all your aftermarket suppressors. Cleaning Rod: Now mine came broken in two, but I think it is worth a note to add that if you use it there is a chance that the cap that has the slit for the cloth/paper towel will come off. This has happened on two of the rifles I have owned, one being a CA cleaning rod. So may be tug on it a little and if it comes off I used PVC cement to glue it back. If it does come off then you will have to disassemble the rifle and remove the gear box and use the other end of the cleaning rod to force it out. Hint: there are plenty of guides on how to disassemble the rifle which is why I do not have one. Aesthetics: This is a long section so I will make short paragraphs like I did before so it is easy to reference something. I will start at the stock, and work my way forward. The Stock: This was one of the fallbacks in my mind about the rifle. It feels cheap and rather weak. There are also very ugly seam lines, which normally I don’t mind, but they really subtract from the rifle in this case. How ever the seam lines on the rest of the rifle seem very nice, and are hardly noticeable. The stock is also hollow; there is at least one guide to fitting battery cells around the inside, which is how I know this. One mod that might be nice is to use foaming spray and fill the stock inside. On to the metal piece, if one thing stands out about this part it is that it is industrial.They used and impressive amount of metal on it. Unfortunately Galaxy does not do a very nice job painting their metal so it has a shiny finish that is lacking in quality. I also don’t know if I would trust the sling mount. When folded the stock also gets in the way of the forgrip a bit, and is annoying and should probably only be used to minimize the size of the rifle during transportation. How ever I will note that the stock is firmly locked when in the extended position. Because of the design it does not lock when it is folded, but this is rather nice because it is really easy to quickly unfold it with out thinking. Once last thing I do not like about the stock is that on the end of the stock there is no rubber. There are some shallow grooves but they do nothing to provide grip at all so it ends up feeling cheap and slippery again. The Battery Compartment: Is small, very small and a tight fit. This is just one of the draw backs of the design and no one can really complain too much about it because you would have to seriously mod the design to make one better. So where is the battery compartment exactly? It is in the gas tube. When the battery is installed it is put in wires first and the other connector is located at the front of the rifle. Also an important note is that you cannot move the charging handle when the battery is in. The 9.6v battery will not fit unless the bolt is cut down further, or removed completely. The Rear Sight: This is also a little lacking in my opinion. It is a barrel/drum sight, and is plastic. It is also not standard a H&K sight, and if you plan on buying a replacement you need to be careful which one you choose because the battery has to fit underneath and I have seen some replacements that have a long screw sticking into the cocking tube not allowing the battery to be fitted. The Selector Switch: Yay! Something to say awesome job Galaxy about! The trigger is like a rock in the safe position. It won’t move at all. When put into the “semi” position it clicks nicely and once in full it will not move at all beyond full auto. Very well done, my only complaint here is that the finish is not the best, like all of Galaxy’s metal parts. The Magazine Release: I lied Galaxy actually did do a good job painting the mag release. My only complaint is that the spring is a little stiff, but hey it will help keep the mag in right? The Charging Handle: This is also a fall back on this rifle. It is a rather weak design and was not done in metal (accept the actual handle). Most MP5’s the bolt is pushed forward by a spring, on this one it is actually pulled forward because of the battery. You may however do the H&K slap if you want, in my opinion seeing as the spring is rather weak, and the bolt is plastic, so its plastic striking plastic. (Note I am not responsible to any damage of your airsoft replica if in fact yours does break) But this doesn’t matter much on the field because the bolt cannot be pulled back once the battery is installed. The Front Sight (and flash hider): It is metal, and it is…ok. Once again not the best paint and well that’s about it, but for funzzies I will include the flash hider in this part. There are two (2) flash hiders included in with the Galaxy MP5 PDW (note: there is only a plastic orange tip included with the “K” version). The first flash hider is the annoying, bright orange, huge, ugly flash hider. The second flash hider is a nice metal small MP5 version one with 14mm CC threads on it so you may attach your suppressors. Also worth a note is that unlike the K model the inner barrel goes almost all the way to the end of the smaller flash hider on this one, so if it is removed, there will be a brass inner barrel sticking out. I would suggest removing the plastic orange flash hider even if you have to destroy it because in order to properly remove the forgrip you want to slide it forward and the flash hider impedes this. It is also extremely ugly being all orange and stuff. Yuck. The Forgrip: The grip part of the forgrip is hollow as well as the little tab that sticks down in front of the rifle below the front sight. Despite their hollowness the grip feels strong and sturdy, on and off the rifle. Props for you on this Galaxy. I mentioned this in my review some where, else but just to reinforce, I advise that the big ugly orange flash hider is removed to take the grip on and off, trust me it’s a lot easier. The Body Pins: And yes this is a little bit of important info. In the picture I have the forgrip pin is on top and a stock pin on the bottom. Please note the little wire loop at the right on the forgrip pin. This is both irritating and nice. It is irritating because you might want a screwdriver to push it down to insert the pin, it is nice because it means you can attach a sling on it and not worry about it falling out. Hop Up: Pretty much sucks. The rifle over hop’ed a lot. When the rifle was tested I used .25’s. The rounds would not make it 50’ with out going almost strait up. To remedy the problem I decided to take a look insider ‘er. Once the hop up assembly was disassembled it became apparent what the problem was. The rubber was total crap. And I mean the worst I have ever seen. When looking down the barrel the hop up rubber was sticking down into the barrel a ways with out the rest of the hop up unit attached. The rubber was extremely difficult to remove due to its gumminess. Once removed (and mostly destroyed) and with the new rubber in place (a stock CA one) it looked like it would perform a lot better. With the new rubber I was able to set the hop up and it performed a lot nicer, but more on this in the performance section. Performance: The good: Unfortunately there isn’t much for me to say here. With the stock hop up rubber the rifle was for the most part almost useless. After I installed the stock CA rubber it did shoot better, but overall accuracy and range were still lacking. The hop up unit itself is actually quiet robust and is a decent design, though it does seem to adjust itself (back to no hop). As far as rang, before with the stock rubber I was getting may be 30-40’ before I put in the new rubber, but with the new one installed I believe I am getting 50-70’ or so, any range longer than that I don’t know how useful the rifle will be, seeing as the barrel is about 4 ½ “ long. Keep in mind this is also after I cleaned the barrel with silicon oil and a paper towel (surprisingly there wasn’t much on the inside of the barrel. The bad: The rate of fire with an 8.4v is about an average AEG’s; personally I prefer a little higher rate of fire for CQB. I would recommend 9.6v and/or a high speed motor. The hop up rubber was disappointing as well. Seeing as I have owned the PDW and K model and both had the same over hop issues, I would say this is something to be replaced. Don’t get me wrong the hop up system itself actually is a very nice design and seems to be on par, if not better than most clone rifles. The mediocre: This thing is loud! Dry fire is obviously louder than when there is a BB in the chamber, but it is still louder than your regular AEG. Conclusion: Before writing this review my consensuses of the rifle was what I think a lot of people see it as, which is a relatively nice little rifle. After going over this review I noticed a theme, there are a lot of negative things to say about the rifle. And in my opinion there is quiet a number of things that I don’t like about the rifle. In the end though, it is a functioning rifle, that has its pros and cons, but I cannot tell you if it is really worth the $100. Pros: Decent hop up unit (excluding the rubber) Good selector switch Two mags (of mediocre quality) Get all the MPEG goodies Decent internals (of which I did not cover I know) Price? Cons: Poor stock Poor metal painting Not the best mags Not the best ROF Only so-so accuracy Really bad hop up rubber Rear sight isn’t metal or standard H&K Price? Suppressor Making Guide: I took it out to take do a test fire and shot it and the end cap came off, so I enlarged the hole where the BB exits the suppressor. In the end the biggest flaw with the suppressor is that the flash hider is to loose on the other and wiggles enough to the point to where you would need an extremely large hole for the BB to go through. So here is the guide and pictures if you want to have a go at it: Step 1: Acquire a piece of PVC pipe that is the diameter that you want, and cut it to the length you want. I used 1” pipe and cut it 4” long, remember there is also going to be the added length of the back of the flash hider. This is also a reason why I like 1” it is just slightly larger than the part of the flash hider that will be showing so it looks natural. *Also this is important* MAKE SURE YOUR CUT IS SQUARE if the cut that is going to be the far end of the suppressor is not square you either a) have a lot of sanding to do or b) will have a not so nice look on your flash hider. I used a chop saw which cut through it nicely. Step 2: Paint the back part of the flash hider. May as well get this step out of the way and that way the paint can dry while you make the rest. I use Krylon (the best stuff EVER!) I got mine from Fred Meyers. You will just want to paint the very last bit. From the back part of the duck tape to the very back of the flash hider. You also might note that the flash hider, on the outside has a nice diamond pattern, though the paint may not stick the best to the shiny finish, but any sanding my result the loss or destruction of said pattern and personally I think the pattern gives the suppressor a very nice realistic touch. Step 3: While your paint dries lets get a-going on the rest. I used some plastic clear window sheeting to make the cap in the front. I used a 1” bit and a drill press. If you use this plastic make sure to GO SLOW. I know it’s hard, but if you don’t you will end up melting the plastic and then it becomes a real pain to sand off. Step 4: Everyone’s fav! Sanding! I used a Dremel tool with a mini drum sander so it went really fast for me (and if you don’t have an electric tool to sand the inside of the pipe, this step will take a LONG time and may not be worth tempting). The first thing you need to carefully sand is the outside of you piece of plastic for the cap to get all burs ‘n stuff off. Then you need to carefully ream out the inside of the PVC pipe just a bit until you can force the plastic cap inside the PVC end. Then pop it out and grab your PVC cement. I just used a little glue around the inside of the PVC and forced the cap inside so it was flush with the PVC pipe. Once you have that done, your almost there. You might want to take a fine girt sand paper and run over the whole pipe to make sure there aren’t any dents or scratches. You may also want to bevel the outside edge of the PVC, though I must warn you it is hard to get it perfect, you may want to leave it and then if you don’t like the look sand it down a little. Step 5: If you will want to check to make sure that the hole in the cap is bigger than the BB. I’d say mine is about 9mm or so, but don’t be afraid to make it bigger. Note: the first time I fired the rifle with the suppressor, on the first shot the BB knocked the cap out so really make that hole big and make sure the foam doesn’t interfere with the BB’s trajectory. Step 6: If you want to insert some sort of foam, now is your chance. I used the same drill bit I used to cut the end cap with. Also here make sure that the hole is really big and that there are no obstructions in the way of the BB. And final thought remember that the total sum of the foam and the flash hider has to be less than the length of the PVC tube. Insert your foam pieces. If you want to get them out, I took a metal cloths hanger, cut a piece off and bent a really small hook at the end and then stabbed that into the foam. Step 7: Ok now it’s the fun part! Paint the outside of the PVC and make sure that all the orange is gone on the flash hider. While the paint on the PVC is drying you can take the flash hider and wrap duck tape around that until it barely fits into the PVC. Once the PVC is dry put the two together and you’re done! Just make sure the PVC is centered on the flash hider so the BB’s are able to make it through the hole. Final thought: This was just how I did it, there are many other was to do this, one may include a better way to hold the PVC to the flash hider. Hope that helped, Freeman Rating: 7

Product Details: "MP5K PDW" by Cheesehead - posted: Tue June 12, 2007 - Rating: 8.25

Last Review Posted by Mercenary992 - posted: Thu August 6, 2009 5:39am

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By far the best airsoft gun I have ever owned. Out of the box I was beating friends with M4's in the same class of ROF and FPS. It can shoot accurately up to 120 ft and even then the bb doesn't want to drop. So if you are a big fan of the g36 or m4/m16 series, Highly consider this rifle. Rating: 10

Product Details: "G36C" by Cheesehead - posted: Sat March 3, 2007 - Rating: 9.18

Last Review Posted by pinback - posted: Thu June 11, 2009 12:56pm

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I picked this up over at ASGI instead of a replacement v3 E1 v3 complete gearbox since it was only $20 more and very glad I did. The package includes a cheap sling, 2 x 300-round hi-caps, dumb charger, an ASGI chrono confirming 335fps, the UMP itself with the battery installed, and a manual. After removing the shrink-wrap off the foam bottom, I picked up the UMP. For a sub-$100 SMG it is quite heavy and feels very solid. I grabbed the mag and was a bit surprised how light it was, how cheap it felt and how flimsy the bb loading door felt. Despite this I was very pleased to see a second mag underneath it, was unexpected. After removing the BB loader, jamming rod, dumb charger, and sling from the packaging I was at a loss since I could not find the battery - until I folded the stock and opened the battery compartment and was relieved it was already installed. Removing the battery revealed an unexpected surprise, the battery connector hot lead had a pinched & broken insulation - but no wire strands were damaged or broken so I was able to calm down slightly after spitefully saying "double eagle" and rolling my eyes, and repaired it with a 1" cut of electrical tape and a mini-zip tie. I unpacked the hitech smart charger I had ordered along with the UMP, and set it up for 300mA slow charge and 7 cell battery... 5 hours later I got impatient and set it for 600mA and it indicated full about 20mins after that. After a quick barrel cleaning, I grabbed the cheap-feeling mag and opened up the BB loading hatch. After murmuring "my BE LPEG mags feel nicer than this" I loaded up 300 .2g rounds. I was pleased not to feel a sharp pain when winding it up (without gloves on), it is a nice, wide and smooth-grooved wheel. Inserting the mag gave some resistance, and it needed a "slap" to get it fully inserted - some real-steel mag-insertion realism Firing off a few rounds, I noticed the gearbox sounds quite smooth, just as good as my JG M4A1 basic - no chattering, rattling or excessive binding that I can hear. It is a bit quieter than my JG, most likely due to the lower spring / fps & less strain. Since my townhouse basement is limited to 25' max target range I got less than 1" groupings and it was very close to the reticle (best I can do at the moment) At this price, it is arguably the best price/performance beginner AEGs (or one of them cheers edit - fix typo Rating: 9

Product Details: "UMP .45" by Cheesehead - posted: Tue January 1, 2008 - Rating: 8.50

Last Review Posted by frontline95 - posted: Sun May 17, 2009 8:03pm

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Great gun. If your price range is higher, say in the $200's get something else, but the gun is maybe the best gun for the price range. Have three friends who got it. One guy broke it, but he also gave it a couple of paint jobs and took it apart like forty times. If you don't feel like you have to know exactly how it works it's a great gun. Rating: 9

Product Details: "G36C" by Cheesehead - posted: Sat March 3, 2007 - Rating: 9.18

Last Review Posted by LeprousTermite - posted: Tue April 28, 2009 9:34pm

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For the price, It's absolutely excellent! The barrel is only maybe 12" long, but it out ranges several people's guns! (shoots further and straighter than a stock Tokyo Marui AUG) Tight bore pre-installed maybe? The battery that comes with this gun doesn't cut it! I'm guessing this gun was designed to shoot with a 9.6V battery, but a 9.6V stick type battery won't fit in this gun unless you keep the stock folded! Not a big issue, just tape a 9.6V to the side, or remove the battery compartment door and it will be able to fit with the stock in position.

Product Details: "UMP .45" by Cheesehead - posted: Tue January 1, 2008 - Rating: 8.50

Last Review Posted by aznconverter - posted: Wed April 22, 2009 4:36pm

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When modding to 120 rounds, the reference picture was wrong. The slit should be perpendicular with the mag, not parallel when trying to take the spring cover off. Rating: 10

Product Details: "MAG Armalite Mid Caps" by Cheesehead - posted: Fri March 30, 2007 - Rating: 9.50

Last Review Posted by Durandalski - posted: Tue April 7, 2009 2:34am

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I picked the JG G36 for my first AEG because I'd heard good things about it, and I didn't like the feel of any of the armalites I'd held at the field. I've never regretted my choice. The first thing that struck me about the gun when I took it out of the box was the solid feel. The body is a real rock, especially compared to the wobbly M4's of various makes that I'd held. There is no wobble anywhere here, the magazine fits snug in the magwell, the stock locks firmly into both positions. You can shake as hard as you want and you'll find no rattle. The magazine feeds flawlessly from the word go, and fires about half the mag on a full wind. I have not had one misfeed that I know of out of more than ten thousand rounds fired. I typically use .20 bbs because their cheaper and there's not much wind where we play. I get very decent range out of these, around 130-140 feet. With .23's it gets even better. Bb's of both weights tend to arc to the left a little bit, but not enough to cause trouble usually. Although accuracy with .2's is limited to the 100 foot range, with .23's I could hit a man sized target almost all the way out to the maximum range. I've never had much trouble competing with high end AEG's regardless. My G36C chrono'd at about 350 fps, which is all I should ever need. Any more than that and I'm out of the cqb fps limit. Due to the compact size, cqb is of course the G36C's strong point. It has never let me down when storming a room. The stock battery has proven to be quite reliable to me. 4 hours with my european style charger is enough for a full charge, and it lasts a full days play from 9AM to 2-3 in the afternoon. Only once, when it was very cold, did it start to die on me. I don't know exactly how many rounds the battery lasts, but I'd guess well over a thousand since I've several times shot off about that number at a game, and still had full rof at the end. Rof is very good for stock 8v, I'd guesstimate around 800 rounds per minute, give or take. My biggest complaint is the fire selector. It clicks into the safe and auto positions, but the single position is very mushy. It's annoying when I want to switch to single shots, and I have to look down and carefully make sure I've found the right click for single fire. Another complaint is the plasticky carry handle. There is a metal bar inside of it, but it still feels weak and plasticky. The rearmost part of the stock, just forward of the rubber buttpad, is also thin and plasticky feeling. I worry that a hard hit to that area could crack or break it. Three or four times in the time that I've owned it my G36 has hiccuped on single so that I had to switch to auto and back to fix it. This is a common AEG problem, and considering how often I use single fire I'm lucky it's only happened a few times. On the whole I strongly reccomend the JG G36C for a first AEG. It's ideal for a beginner, being reliable, durable, and powerful, right out of the box. Rating: 8

Product Details: "G36C" by Cheesehead - posted: Sat March 3, 2007 - Rating: 9.18

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