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Table of Contents:
1. Ordering


2. First Impressions & What Is Included


3. Aesthetics


4. Disassembly & Battery Installation


5. Performance


6. Durability


7. Pro's & Con's


8. Upgrade & Modification Potential


9. Conclusion


10. More pictures!





Ordering


First of all, I am going to tell you where I got it and other places that you can purchase it. I bought it from NachosDesign here at ASR, whom I highly recommend. The only bad thing about ordering from him is that it might take awhile to get your package because it ships from Hong Kong. But, it isn't that big of a deal. It took less than two weeks to get it from him and it only cost me $70 USD. With the gun, he also included a power converter, which you must have otherwise you cannot charge the battery.


So far there are three different places/people you can buy from. Two of which are located in Hong Kong, China. One is Nachosdesign (here on ASR) and the other HK dealer is GunnerAirsoft.com. As for the US stores that carry this, there is only Evike.com and M4Airsoft.com so far. Also, a note about Evike. They are just getting the version 1 CM.030's where as Nachosdesign and Gunner have the version 2(which I am reviewing). However, there has been rumor that Cyma is releasing a third version of this wonderful gun. Soon, I also believe UTG (Under the Gun; Leapers) will be distributing the CM.030, along with Cyma's MP7 copy, which hasn't been released yet. But, I guess that is a whole 'nother story.



First Impressions & What Is Included


I must say, I am very impressed with this new Cyma clone. When I first opened the box and held the gun, I was slightly disappointed because of the weight. It seemed like all of the weight was centered toward the grip of the gun and somewhat back heavy. It took me awhile to figure out how to put the battery in the gun, too. But, once the battery was in and the magazine was in, it felt 100% better. This thing is quite heavy. Fully loaded, it weighs about two pounds or so. And, since I ordered from Hong Kong, there was no orange I had to take off (just some of that red electrical tape on the barrel), which is a huge plus in my books. I also noticed that Cyma added white painted sights on the version 2. The version one I know does not have this feature. They did an okay job on the sights. The front sight is a white dot and they painted the rear sights with three white lines. It looks a bracket ("[") turned up. I personally like two white dots on the rear sight and one red dot on the front sight. Still, Cyma did a good job. As far as metal externals go, the following are the only metal parts on the outside of the gun:


1. 30 round stick magazine
2. Selector switch
3. Disassembly button (the back plate)


How about what is included with the gun? It comes in a nice cardboard box with graphics on it(see picture below), and inside you get the gun, one magazine, a pistol mag-shaped speed loader(surprisingly better than my other ones), a cleaning/unjamming rod, a small allen/hex wrench, a 7.2 volt 500 mAh Ni-MH rechargeable battery, a 220v-compatible(Europe and Asia outlets)charger, and a small packet of 0.20g BBs that look identical to the ones that are packaged with Marui guns(the sticker looks the same almost). I must say, the BBs that came with the gun really stunned me. Upon handling them, I thought they were going to be the same old crappy BBs. Well, I am surprised to say they aren't. In fact, comparing them to some Cybergun 0.20g BBs and some JT brand BBs (not the Infinities), they look exceptionally better. They are a lot smoother and are rounder than any of the other 0.20g BBs I have. I was pretty shocked.


That about covers it for this section of the review. Remember though, you will need a power converter if you live in the US to charge the battery. You can see pictures of it down below this paragraph. Radioshack has them, I believe. Or, if you buy the CM.030 from Nachosdesign, he can probably pick up a cheap one there. Anyhow, here are some more pictures.

The box:

What comes with the gun:

The charger (remember, you need a power converter to charge the battery!):

The battery (500 mAh Ni-MH):

The 30 round metal magazine:

Aesthetics


After hearing about all of the great new Cyma guns that came out so far (CM.027, CM.028, CM.028S), and getting this one, I must say, Cyma is greatly improving. The externals are very good on this gun. It is quite heavy when it is loaded, even thought almost everything is plastic. My only gripe is that there is no Glock trigger safety and no Glock trademarks. On the right side of the gun, on the bottom of the grip panel, it says: "CM.030". Above that about four or five inches, right under the slide, it says: "MADE IN CHINA". And, on the left side of the gun, on the grip panel, it says: "CYMA" in fancy letters. (This is where the Glock logo would go) These are my only gripes about this gun. However, there is a way to get rid of all those fake trademarks. First of all, to get rid of the "MADE IN CHINA", you would have to take a Dremel or other rotary tool to it.(I am probably going to do that) To get rid of the fake trades on both grip panels, Proud makes some awesome grip panels that have full Glock trademarks on them. They are available at most HK retailers and are about $9-$10 USD plus shipping. And, finally, if you want full Glock trademarks on the slide (there are no markings on the stock slide), Shooter's Design makes a metal slide in four variations. First of all, you can pick from a silver metal slide or a black metal slide. You can also pick which style you want, regular or "Cobra". These slides will run you about $65 each plus shipping from Hong Kong. Overall, the externals are very nice and there are only a few visible seam lines. The finish on the gun is not bad, either. It is a nice semi-flat black. This thing also has a 20mm rail under the slide just like any other Glock, and you can mount just about anything on there that you would like. (Flashlights, lasers, etc.). While holding this gun, the only other gripe I have is the trigger. There is a seam line that is, in my opinion, very uncomfortable if you aren't wearing gloves. However, once I break out the Dremel, this will be a very easy fix.

The business end:

The white painted sights:

Right side:

Left Side:

Couple more shots:

Disassembly & Battery Installation


Okay, onto disassembly. First of all, I must admit that it took me awhile to figure out how to take the slide off (keep in mind there were no manuals for me to look at). Actually, that is a bit of an exaggeration. It took no more than thirty seconds to figure it out. To take the slide off, there is a button (the back plate) you must push. It is located right under the rear sight. Just push it in and the slide pops off. Simple. Now before you put the battery in, you should first charge it with the included charger and power converter. I got the converter included with my gun, but I am pretty sure you can go to Radioshack or a similar place and pick one up. The battery is 500 mAh and the charger output is 250 mAh; therefore, you should charge the battery for precisely two hours. Just take the charger and plug it into the power converter and make sure the setting on the back of the power converter is switched to AC 110v Input and not AC 220v Input, and just plug it into an outlet and let it charge for two hours. Once the battery is charged and you have the slide off, simply slide the battery diagonally underneath the outer/inner barrel where the slot is. Make sure that you insert the battery so that the letters on the battery are facing you before you slide the battery in. Also, to take the battery out, there is a spring-loaded black lever on the left side of the barrel. Simply pull that square panel away from the gun and the battery should pop right out. Okay, now that the battery is in, just replace the slide and you are ready to shoot. Before we do that, however, let me point out where the safety on this thing is. It is located on the right side of the gun, about a half an inch to the right and above the trigger. If you had a real Glock or GBB (Gas Blowback) Glock, this is called the disassembly lever. It would usually takedown the slide, but for this case, it is acting as a safety. If you slide it down, then the safety is engaged. If the lever is in the highest position, then the safety is off and it is ready to shoot. I would caution you, however, to not pull the trigger to hard if the safety is on. Somehow, it feels fragile. I am not sure if it would break, but I certainly do not want to find out.

Power converter:

Performance


Okay, finally the part of this review you have either been waiting for or got bored and skipped to. Either way, here is the performance section of the gun. I will be discussing the range, accuracy, FPS (Feet per Second), hop-up, and ROF (Rate of Fire), and battery life.


I will first talk about the hop-up. It is adjustable on this gun, which means you can adjust the hop of the bb to make it accurately fly the farthest for each type of bb you use. To adjust the hop-up, you must first take the slide off. Now, there is a wheel on the left side of the gun just above the trigger. If you want more hop, turn this clockwise. For less hop, counter-clockwise. Very simple. If you want to, you can even leave the slide off and just keep shooting and adjusting the hop until you find a good setting. I find this easier than having to replace the slide every time you want to adjust the hop-up.


First test, the range. To do this test, I will measure out the exact distance of the total range and effective range. I will be using 0.12g, 0.20g, and 0.25g BBs to do this test. With 0.12g BBs, the maximum effective range (when the hop-up is properly adjusted) you can expect to get a kill (this means using short bursts) is around 65-75 feet. The maximum range even thought I highly doubt you will hit anything, is a good 100 feet. That is with the hop-up quite high and after this distance, the BBs go straight up. With 0.20g BBs, expect about 85-95 feet of effective range and about 100-115 maximum range. Again, this is when the hop-up is adjusted accordingly. Now as for 0.25g BBs, you can expect just about the same amount of effective range as 0.20g BBs, but not as much maximum range. But, you can only achieve this if the hop-up is adjusted perfectly. So about 95-100 feet of effective range with 0.20g and 0.25g BBs. Again, when I say effective range, I mean that is the maximum distance I feel that you can get a "kill", or hit a human-sized target. However, I would only recommend 0.25g and heavier BBs solely for CQB because of the FPS. I wouldn't use anything heavier than a 0.25g bb, though. If you want to use 0.25g BBs, just turn the hop all the way up (or close to it) for best results. After firing 0.12g, 0.20g, and 0.25g BBs, I believe that 0.23g BBs would be just perfect for this gun. Also, I would like to throw in a little something about the trigger pull. I estimate the trigger pull to be around 2 pounds. It really is not difficult at all to pull the trigger, like a simple NBB. It might be just a little bit harder than a standard GBB, however.


The second tests I will be doing are the accuracy tests. With 0.12g BBs, it spreads like a shotgun, so that is about it for accuracy as far as 0.12g BBs go. I seriously wouldn't use any 0.12g BBs in this. Next up, 0.20g. I tested 0.20g BBs at a measured range of 15 and 40 feet. I tested that with 6 shots of semi-auto and a 10-round burst of full-auto. Also, keep in mind; these shots were off-hand, so the gun wasn't rested on anything. The results can be seen below.

Next, I tested it with 0.25g BBs at 25 and 65 feet. The one at 25 feet I did just like the previous two (6 rounds SA, 10 rounds FA), but the one at 65 feet I just unloaded a full magazine (30 rounds). And, almost half of which hit its intended target (14/30 hits).Not too bad. So, that means, head shots are easily obtained with 0.20g and 0.25g BBs at ranges exceeding 65 feet. I would say, if I got lucky (or did a couple of small bursts); I could get a head shot from 75-80 feet. Also, the hop-up would have to be adjusted perfectly for whatever bb I was using.

The third test is the ROF or Rate Of Fire test. First off, I would like to talk about the magazine. When you first get this gun, and it misfires on you, just keep sliding the magazine in and out until it loosens up a bit. When I first shot mine, it would misfire in both semi auto and full auto. I simply kept sliding the magazine in and out and I lubed the mag just a little bit. After this, it will feed any weight bb with zero misfires. In full auto, this thing can spew out the entire 30 round magazine in roughly 2.4-2.5 seconds. That puts the ROF at approximately 11-12 RPS. I would say 13 at the highest and 13 is really pushing it. I think 12 is more accurate. Because of the ROF of this thing, I would highly recommend either getting extra mags or getting the 100 round Marui G18c mag. Since this is a Marui clone, it will accept any Marui G18c upgrades, accessories, or mags.


The fourth test will be about the battery life and how many shots you can get out of your AEP battery. Again, the battery that is included with the V2 CM.030 is a 7.2 volt 500 mAh Ni-MH battery. If you get the V1 CM.030, you will get a 7.2 volt 450 mAh Ni-MH battery. The Tokyo Marui Glock 18c AEP comes with a 7.2 volt 200 mAh Ni-CD battery. The Marui battery lasts about ~600 shots. The one that comes with the V1 CM.030 should last you about ~1,350 shots. With the V2 CM.030, it should last around ~1,500 shots. Now, there is rumored to be a third version of the CM.030, but so far, we do not know exactly if they come with even higher capacity batteries or what they have improved on the version 3's. I will update this review once I find out.


The fifth and final test is the FPS or Feet per Second test. Now, I do not have a chronograph, so I am limited to doing the "coke can chrono". Once I have done this, using 0.20g BBs of course, it did not pierce through one side, but left dented one side and left a impression where the bb hit. If the bb went through one side, that is about 290-310 FPS. So, my logical guess is that it is shooting at least 225-245 FPS with a 0.20g bb. Maybe more. And, although FPS is lacking a bit, the gun makes up for it big time with the superb hop-up.



Durability


This gun is actually quite durable despite being made of almost all plastic. The plastic quality is really quite good and it is thick. I really do not think it will break if you take care of it. It will probably last a few falls, too. And, since there are no moving parts (besides the selector switch); I think it will last quite a long time. I guess only time will tell.



Pro's & Con's


Pro's:


Battery lasts for a very long time (more than twice as long as a Tokyo Marui G18c's battery).
Fully compatible with all Tokyo Marui G18c AEP accessories, magazines, and aftermarket parts and upgrades.
Pretty good accuracy, considering.
Easily adjusted hop-up
Quite heavy when full loaded.(more than an unloaded real steel G18c)
Switching to full auto and semi auto and back is very simple and can be done with one hand.
Magazine holds 30 rounds.
More consistent than gas guns.
Weight is distributed evenly.
Good ROF.
Good adjustable hop-up.
More affordable than most gas guns.
Doesn't use gas.
Very reliable. (Doesn't require as much maintenance as GBBs do).
Isn't very loud.
Can choose between semi and full-auto.
No Blowback (which means no recoil; therefore, better accuracy and groupings)



Con's:


Crappy Cyma trademarks.
Somewhat low FPS (not as good as most gas guns, but still more than adequate)
No full size magazine (it's not that bad, though. Plus, you can just buy a Marui 100 round mag that will look like a full size mag.)
No Glock trigger safety.
Very few external metal parts (mag and selector switch).
The safety is kind of stiff.



Upgrade & Modification Potential


Now onto the upgrade part. Now before I do that, you may wonder how to fully strip your AEP. Here are a couple guides: http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/index.php?showtopic=64876&hl=G18C+stripping
The above guide has got to be the best I have seen yet. Thank Famman47 for that. Now another guide, while there are no words, is a great picture disassembly guide. It can be found here: http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/index.php?showtopic=66396&hl=
You may notice that there are some differences in the internals in the CM.030 and the TM G18c AEPs. First of all, the Marui has a vented Cylinder and the CM.030 is unvented and has no holes in its cylinder. I also think that the spring in the CM.030 is stiffer than in the Marui. I cannot prove that, however. You may not be aware of it, but this little pistol has very good upgrade potential. I will first list the internal upgrades that can be done/bought. I will list them together based on who makes them. All upgrades, accessories, etc. will be included in the list.


Proud: Glock 18c AEP grip panels (which have full Glock trademarks)


Freedom Art: Glow sight set. (you can choose from red or green fiber optic sights), and 20mm Weaver scope mount base.


Marui: Scope mount base with 14mm threaded outer barrel, 100 round magazine, spare standard 30 round mag, Marui Pro-Light(which also holds a 7.2v 1000 mAh battery and comes with a charger), and spare 7.2v 200 mAh Ni-cd battery.


Shooter's Design: Glock 18c AEP silver metal slide, Glock 18c AEP silver cobra metal slide, Glock 18c AEP black metal slide, and Glock 18c AEP black cobra metal slide.


Nine-Ball: Metal magazine end with lanyard eyelet, hard reversal stop latch, hard tappet plate, low friction metal hole(bushings?), hard screw set, dumper piston head and dumper set, dual dumper, piston head-x, silencer attachment(suitable only for Nine-Ball custom long inner barrel?), 6.03mm tight bore barrel(length?), bearing axle hole, piston head, power spring, hex-lobe driver, hard tappet cam, hard piston, hard piston plus,


KM Head 1950: 6.04mm 130mm tight bore with threaded barrel, 6.04mm 105mm tight bore(stock barrel length), 6.04mm 300mm in length(with barrel threads), 130mm 6.04mm tight bore with CW barrel, and 200mm(6.04mm) tight bore with threaded barrel.


BOL: Power Cord (allows the gun to take an external battery pack), and BOL Micro Pack Charger (which can charge up to 4 AEP batteries).


First Factory: Power spring, metal bearing bushings, 20mm scope mount base, under mount base, air seal nozzle guide set, hard piston plus, hard tappet cam, hard reversal stop latch, first hard tappet plate, low friction metal axle hole, piston head (Will also fit Marui MP7A1), spring guide (will also fit Marui MP7A1), full cylinder, bearing axle hole, 6.03mm 168mm tight bore barrel, and 105mm tight bore.


Smokey's: A custom stock system specifically made for the TM G18c AEP (will work with CM.030) that is able to carry large batteries with optional adapter cable and the stock improves stability, too.


Also, I have compiled a list of retailers, both located in the US and overseas that carries anything AEP-related. Here it is:


Overseas:


1. Uncompany.com
2. WGCShop.com
3. Dentrinity.com
4. GunnerAirsoft.com (carries only the CM.030, nothing else AEP-related)
5. RedwolfAirsoft.com


(those are the most popular ones, but most HK retailers carry AEP-related stuff)


US-Based:


1. TrinityAirsoft.com
2. Airsoft-X.com
3. PoweredgeUSA.com
4. AirsoftAtlanta.com
5. M4Airsoft.com (carries the CM.030 only)
6. Evike.com
7. EhobbyAsia (on eBay, and technically not in the US, but there shipping is fast like it was shipped from the US)
8. Impact Games, LLC (Hammermods.com, which sells the awesome PDI AEP upgrades)



I think I should also add this. I just thought it would be cool to have a silver slide, so I decided to paint it. I used Krylon Premium Sterling Silver spray paint (#1030). It looks super nice, in my opinion, and looks just like real metal. However, there is a downside. I have not found a way to protect the finish. Whenever I touch the slide, it seems that I always leave fingerprints. I have tried a matte finish (this fixes the problem somewhat, but turns it a light shade of gray) and I have tried a high gloss finish; both failed my expectations. I might try something else, but for now, I just am going to leave the slide sit for a couple of days and not touch it to make sure it fully dries. I also put two Glock logo on the gun (which really looks nice, I think). I put one on the bottom of the grip and one of the grip where there would usually be one. I was going to attempt to try and put fake trades on the slide itself, but I do not think it will look too good. I may try in the future, however. I also have done a little painting. I painted the sights white and red (red dot on front sight and two white dots on rear sight) and have painted in the three dots by the selector lever. The pictures really do not do the gun justice! Here they are anyway:

Conclusion


In conclusion, if you are looking for a sidearm and either doesn’t want to spend money on that expensive gas (or propane adapter+propane), but still need an effective, but reliable sidearm or secondary weapon, this is perfect for you. Or, if you want a couple guns for CQB, I think this would be a cheaper alternative than the Marui G18c AEP (you can get two CM.030's for the price of one TM G18c AEP). Or if you simply need a sidearm or back-up weapon that will perform well in winter or harsh climates, I think this is the perfect choice for you. For a fraction of the cost of a Marui, it performs basically the same, except with no real Glock trademarks. How could you go wrong?
If you have any questions, comments, etc. you can just check out my ASR profile for contact information. I hoped you enjoyed this review and thanks for reading!



More Pictures!

And now, I leave you with some more wonderful pictures. Enjoy!