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TM/UTG/TSD/DE M3 Super 90 Shotgun Disassembly/Upgrade/Maintenance Guide
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Mon September 5, 2011
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Description:
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TM M3 Super 90 Shotgun Disassembly Guide
Written by aznriptide859
I was just looking on some forums, and realized that a lot of people have TM shotguns, but have a hard time either fixing them or taking them apart. Alas, here finds the forum goer who can find the time to make a disassembly guide for all!
Here's my TM M3 Super 90 of course, modded after the Counter-Strike: Source version:
Anyways, to the guide!
I. Basic Part Disassembly
First up: remove the two screws on the foregrip. Due to my lighted foregrip, I only have one, but it will be two for all others.
After removing the screws, pry open the RIGHT side of the foregrip with a flat-head screwdriver...
...which should come apart like this. Take it off afterwards.
Next, remove the screw that holds the left foregrip in to the pump mechanism..
...then just take off that. Here are all the foregrip pieces after disassembly.
Next, remove the 4 screws on both sides of the pump mechanism (I only have 3 since I lost one):
Next, take off the 2 screws, left and right, on the cover of the outer barrel.
Slide it forwards...
...which should reveal four more larger screws inside the secondary tube. Remove them off of both sides:
Next, just slide the entire tube assembly forwards...
...and you should have your gun in pieces like this.
Next up is the stock disassembly. This is pretty easy: remove the rubber butt pad...
...then take a Phillips screwdriver to remove it. It's a very long screw.
Pull the stock back...
... and when you're done you should have the three main components: the stock, the tube assembly, and the "gearbox".
Taking off the grip on a Shorty version would be the same, but with a lot shorter screw. Same process: just unscrew, and pull the grip back.
II. The stock assembly
OK now to take apart the stock section, just in case you need it :D
To remove the inner back plate, just push the screw out from the front then it'll come out:
There's no real point to his besides revealing a small foam-wrapped metal weight in the stock:
To remove the grip, just remove the small screw near the front of the stock:
Full disassembled:
Now, the full stock can be split apart in half, just like any plastic full stock on AEG's. There's no real point for disassembling the stock besides to glue it together, as it sometimes does come apart a bit while pumping the shotgun. Now for mods, the only real mod I can think of is a shotgun stock shell holder. Mine personally is textured spray-painted (as well as the foregrip pump), using Duplicolor Truck Bedliner Spray. It's great for a rough and sturdy grip :D
III. Secondary/Gearbox Disassembly
Here's the part everyone wants :D
First you'll need to pry off the receiver cover. This can be done just using a screwdriver and pushing it upwards...
...and more upwards.
Take out the two pump rod guides. These are necessary for your gun to work, and over time will get VERY dirty. Wipe them clean, and also clean out the guides on the gearbox shell itself. You may sand them down if you wish for smoother pumping, but I was just too lazy to do it for myself :D
When you take off the receiver cover, make sure you do NOT loose this piece on the right side. This piece (which comes with a spring) may fly out, and it is crucial for the pump lock mechanism to work correctly. I suggest gluing the spring to the part so you don't lose the spring.
To take down the faux bolt, just press the bolt inward from the receiver cover. This may take a little effort.
The bolt itself.
I've been told that many M3 users have problems with weak or shaky bolts on the cover after usage. I suggest putting some super glue behind the screw hole on the other side, then screwing the bolt in. It's held on for me for more than 6 months now.
Next, to take off the barrel assembly, take off the two screws on the two sides of the front area:
Once you've done that, push the barrel assembly FORWARDS and UPWARDS to take it off; if you just pull it off by the barrels, you risk damaging your nozzles or the assembly itself.
Disassembled. Barrel assembly will be discussed later.
Now for the gearbox: Unscrew the Phillips screw on top of the gearbox shell:
Remove the two Phillips screws on the lower part of the gearbox right above the trigger area. There should be two, and they're pretty small and long.
Take off the trigger assembly.
Next, take off the two Phillips screws near the back "buffer tube", and the three Torx (that's right, Torx) screws near the rear end of the gearbox.
Then take off one last Torx screw near the nozzle area:
Next, just pry the two halves apart; it shouldn't be too hard, and nothing will fall out/fly out. Here's the halves taken apart:
All the parts of the gearbox. Next I'll go over the reassembly:
IV. Gearbox Parts Analysis/Reassembly
First are springs; PDI is the only known maker of M3/SPAS12 springs, and come in two types: the % types (90, 120, 150, 180, all discontinued) and the Joule type (0.7, which is old, and 0.8 and 1.0 which are new). Seen here are three springs: On the guide is the stock inner spring, then below that is the stock outer spring, then is the SPAS12 PDI 0.8J spring. You'll notice that it's a LOT longer than the stock spring, and even after cutting it down, it wouldn't fit. Although it's the most common one out there now in stock, it's a new 2005 version, so it probably won't fit unless the FPS drops a lot. I'll report later with the older 0.7J spring I'm getting.
OK time to put this back together: For the mag release, you'll need to push back this spring and fit the mag release in front of it.
Put it in like this:
Next up are PDI Piston heads; these are very rare nowadays (discontinued, although at time of writing DenTrinity/X-Fire/UNCompany had some in stock) and are the only compression upgrade for the shotguns. Assembly is a simple snap-off/snap-on deal, very easy to do.
Assembled:
With cylinder unit. I put some silicone lube inside for smoother movement:
Next is putting the cylinder unit in the gearbox; similar to the mag catch, you'll need to stuff the spring (attached on the cylinder itself) in a notch located here:
Putting it on:
Next put on the loading nozzle thing right under the cylinder:
Then, put the loading bar (with its spring) into the slot in front of the loading nozzle. The spring will catch against part of the GB shell. I sanded this area down just a bit for smoother loading.
Next put the trigger into its slot with the spring attached as shown:
Next put in the weird pump guide thing right below the trigger area:
Then attach the other part on top of this. The rear section should latch onto the spring earlier mentioned as shown:
Lastly put the spring in:
...and you're done! :D Of course rescrew back everything in.
Now for the trigger, you need to match up this latch on the trigger:
...to this hole on the GB. This is what activates the mag catch. You'll need to push back the mag catch in order for the trigger latch to fit in here.
To put the cover back on, don't forget to put that small pump lock piece (with its spring) into the hole on the right side of the gearbox. However, also, the small loading lever needs to be pushed down as shown here:
This must be pushed down so the two pump guides can fit in the cover without malfunctioning. THIS PART IS CRUCIAL; I suggest pushing down on the spring guides...
...as you fit the receiver cover back on. Don't forget the pump lock piece again :D
That's the basic disassembly and reassembly - hope this guide helps!!
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Hardcore
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Posts: 8,597
Registered: January 2007
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