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How To Solder Deans Connectors
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20410
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Sat October 24, 2009
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Description:
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Hardware Guide: How To Solder Deans Connectors by aznriptide859
Discuss this review here.
Basic Information:
Well after SO much hardware/item discussions in the custom guns section, I figured with all the suggestions of adding Deans Connectors that a guide be needed for optimal soldering techniques. This is a simple guide on how to remove your old tamiya connectors and solder in your Deans Connectors on both your charger and battery! This guide will cover the battery section only, but it's the same for the charger.
Needed Parts:
First of all you need some things:
-Battery or Charger
-25W/40W Soldering Iron
-60/40 Rosin-Core Lead-free Solder
-Plumbing Solder Flux
-Toothpick
-16-18AWG Heat Shrink
-Lighter/Heat Gun/Hair Dryer
-Scissor
-And of course, Deans Connectors
Both solder and flux are Benzomatic brand, which are easily found at Home Depot or any hardware store. Make sure it's 60/40, not 40/60 or any other proportion - it makes sure the solder doesn't harden too quickly or flow too fluidly. The flux is used to make sure the solder doesn't goop up in balls and helps it flow evenly on the wires/connectors. It's not required, but HIGHLY recommended.
I'm using OnlyBatteryPacks.com's specified 16AWG heat shrink, which is pretty cheap. You can still find heat shrink at hardware stores. However, if you really want to be specific, semi-ridged heat shrink is best for airsoft applications, which can be found on eBay.
Procedure
1. First, cut off your Tamiya connectors on either your charger or battery. For the battery, make sure the + and - sides don't touch/conduct via the scissor blades, otherwise you could seriously damage the battery.
2. Next, cut off a small piece of insulation on the end of the wires - about 5-8mm pure wiring should stick out afterwards. NOTE: It's best you strip the wires separately (and complete the following setups for each wiring), that way you make sure the wires don't touch and short out the battery, ESPECIALLY for LiPo's (Thanks Booligan!).
3. Using the toothpick, dab some flux on both the wires.
Applied:
4. Do step 3 with the connector.
5. Apply a small bit of solder on the connectors and wire. You should see the flux bubble and the solder flow evenly through the wire and connector.
6. Cut off a small piece of heat shrink, one for each terminal. A 1cm long piece is fine.
7. IMPORTANT: Slip the heat shrink on the wire BEFORE you do the soldering. You'll be surprised how many times you might forget the heat shrink after soldering something in.
NOTE: Before step 8 know which side of the connector is for + and - points. There are small "+" and "-" signs right next to each tab.
8. Using pliers, hold the dean connectors down. Press the wire down on the correct connector tab, then solder the wire and tab together. The flux will help the solder on both surfaces fuse very quickly. It's best you do this for one wire at a time, again to prevent battery shorting. Repeat process for both wires.
9. Slip the heat shrink on both solder points. Make sure during step 8 the heat shrink doesn't contract by making sure the heat shrink stays far away from the solder point. Heat the heat shrink using a lighter, swaping it from side to side in very quick motions. Do NOT leave it above the lighter - you'll burn the heat shrink and the wiring. A heat gun and hair dryer can work as well, but I've found both much slower than the method I use.
10. You're DONE!
Finished Battery:
End Notes:
Two things to note:
1. Leave wiring to spare when soldering to batteries. This way the heat shrink doesn't actually shrink during soldering and you have room to move wires when you plug the battery in.
2. This deals with issue one: since the flux is applied, some of it will flow into the insulated wiring, which gives the finished product a section of wiring where you can't fold it. This is why leaving wire space is a good idea.
If you're more of a video/audio learner, sdobbins has made a great guide as well on Youtube:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rruTqtl6gQQ&eurl=http://www.airsoftretreat.com/forums/index.php?topic=77868.msg767032&feature=player_embedded
Thanks sdobbins!
Hope this helps everyone who wants to solder on new connectors!
Written by aznriptide859, Feb. 17, 2009 - Oct. 17, 2009
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Hardcore
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Posts: 8,611
Registered: January 2007
Location: West Jordan, UT
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;)